fluidamper vs. ATI
debating if i need an aftermarked crank damper for turbo gsr 450-500hp rev limiter 9300.....any difference between fluidamper and ati? fluid vs elastomer
and between street and race version?/aluminum vs steel...... not using powersteering/ac too
and between street and race version?/aluminum vs steel...... not using powersteering/ac too
i can't comment on the ATI unit but i am running a fluidampr steet pulley. no issues. very smooth/balanced above 6000+rpm.
srteet versions have the ribs and grooves for ac and ps belts. the race versions have those cut off so it only drives the alternator. the race versions will be a little lighter because of that.
is an aftermarket balancer "required"......not really.......but when you have a few thousand bucks flying around 8000+ rpm its better to be safe than sorry.
srteet versions have the ribs and grooves for ac and ps belts. the race versions have those cut off so it only drives the alternator. the race versions will be a little lighter because of that.
is an aftermarket balancer "required"......not really.......but when you have a few thousand bucks flying around 8000+ rpm its better to be safe than sorry.
I have ATI street
here is the diff besides the obvious. (the extra pullies)
for a street car you want to get the street version, you ask why? becuase the altenator pulley isnt underdiven like the race version. the race version damper actually affects your voltage output to your alternator a lot of people who have the race pulley run an upgraded alternator. Not all but some. To back this up a buddy had the race ati on his car and he has a Bosch044 inline with walbro. His voltage fluctuated around 12volts when it should have been at 13.5 easily. Which effected his fuel pressure
here is the diff besides the obvious. (the extra pullies)
for a street car you want to get the street version, you ask why? becuase the altenator pulley isnt underdiven like the race version. the race version damper actually affects your voltage output to your alternator a lot of people who have the race pulley run an upgraded alternator. Not all but some. To back this up a buddy had the race ati on his car and he has a Bosch044 inline with walbro. His voltage fluctuated around 12volts when it should have been at 13.5 easily. Which effected his fuel pressure
Fluidamper works better in lower rpms and quicker and uses a viscus fluid to dampen engine harmonics while as the ati is an elastometric dampener and uses rubber to dampen engine harmoncs liek the stock unit but way better and the ati performs better the higher you rev. Both are tried and true pieces but IMO ati ftw and yeah get the street version.
I have the Fluidampr street, but the race version (Fluidampr Race) uses the same factory alternator belt and is not underdriven. The ATI is different as mentioned by HybridLST above.
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not true...i inquired to fluidampr about that a couple years ago. the stuff inside is resistant to freezing. i DD mine in the freezing cold last winter and will be again this winter. no issues then and im expecting no issues now.
It's supposed to have a freezing point of -50C or something like that.. I've asked their tech support before I purchased it about 4 years ago, and mine is still doing great. I guess don't park your car inside a meat refridgerator...lol
Try looking up 'fluidamper test' on the internet. I remember seeing test results that said the elastomer hardened after use and running on the engine with repeated warmups. When cut open later, it had solidified????
It's supposed to be a gel... Summitracing had always listed them as a silicon gel from the very beginning, but the import guys didn't really know about it.
What's important is whether it works well or not.. You can't go wrong with either one, and knowing that my oil pump gear is still in one piece tells me its working...lol
What's important is whether it works well or not.. You can't go wrong with either one, and knowing that my oil pump gear is still in one piece tells me its working...lol
Stock pulley only does so much, it "works" but not the best. If you can afford one even on a daily driver and your boosting and making nice power then IMO its a good thing to have especially over a stock unit that barely has any rubber in it to absorb harmonics
so I dont want the underdriven pully since its a street car, so i I either buy the ati street or the fluid street/race then what should i get BETWEEN STEEL and Aluminum hubs?
ATI here and I love it. I dont think your going to get a straight one is better than the other answer, just personal experiences. Def worth getting just for the added peace of mind for the bottom end.
You guys have to remember the stocker is intended for a heavy flywheel, power steering, and usually A/C. The extra mass & accessories tends to help with harmonics. It was also not intended to be ran after it starts cracking & seperating. Most original dampeners I've seen are already cracking...
Couldn't have said it better myself.
Couldn't have said it better myself.


