2000civ

ok well to start of car is 98 with a B18c1. Bottom end fully built and head has a mild p&p, arp headstuds. Feel free to ask any questions i have alot to learn, but know enough to get through with help i hope. I was just about to start to get the turbo and manifold on for a test fit when i noticed i was hitting a bracket. I don't think it's the PS one but it's right below it hitting the turbo housing. First things is this bracket important? possibly for old ac system or compressor which is gone but still have PS. Only thing i dont have is a walboro pump. Thanks in advance ill try to get pics up asap. i know its easier to help with seeing the problem.



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jfoster

iTrader: (1)

1st - Clean your engine. Before turbocharging an engine you need to address any underlying issues. A compression test, leak down test, timing service if needed, and fixing leaks can save you many troubles down the road. A clean motor will help you to spot and fix any leaks as they occur.

2nd - If an unused mount is the only issue then yes, ditch it. Have you considered turning the turbo around so that the compressor is on the other side?

3rd - Is your turbo internally gated? Because I don't see a waste gate in your pic or any provisions for one on your manifold.

2000civ

1st...ya i know the enigine bay is rough on the right i had a leaking oil pan gasket which was dripping on the axle and spinging it up and around. That is going to be fixed i actaully just replaced the alternator because the coil was getting hit from oil spray .
2nd... im not sure it looks like its unused(try to get a better pic), but it looks maybe like that where the old ac compressor was but cant remember now.
3rd... yes and the DP is made for that way. also ya its a tial 44mm its on the left u just cant see in pics(ill get more up). and it would hit the ps if i flipped it then pretty sure.

cleansi

that would be your torque mount witch also is the bracket for you a/c compressor
ive seen a lot of people that dont even have them hookup on swaps but i dont reccomnend that. sense you ac compressior is removed just take a dremel and shave it down.


how many miles on that build hope your not taking any others word.

good luck

ek3turbo

yu can take the mount off if yu doin below 400hp

PaddingtonBear

Do you have aftermarket motor mounts? If you do, you can ditch both torque mounts because new mounts are usually much stiffer.

2000civ

im pretty sure the whole thing might have to come off for it to allow the manfild to go all the way on. Would shaving damage the integrity on torque mount and making it purpose useless? i had the motor then had it built currently 10k on motor after rebuild.

2000civ

i don't only reason being im keeping it at 400 high boost and 350 low(stock mounts are ok for that correct?), just rough numbers hoping for close tho. Also any one have any good tips for cleanging a super dirty motor besides toothbrush and a lot engine degreaser? Im talking bout tips and tricks not to get **** in electrical connections and ports when rinsing off.

2000civ

ok well took some advice and started to clean the engine its amazing how it shines under all that black..haha. still wondering rather or not to start cutting into that mount and shaving it down.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Angle grinder and a flapper disk, 5-10min. It is common to have to do some grinding to get a turbo to fit. I like many others had to grind some of the block webbing.

AllShowNoGo727

iTrader: (1)

shave the mount it will fit fine.

cleansi

the 00-99 si and 94-01 teg tourqe mounts dont really do that much like every one said you be fine if you just shave it down.

FYI the rubber mount that hooks to the unibody thats shaped like a c is usually trash even when you go to buy a new oem one you can tear the rubber out just buy pushing on it they suck so i would advise you too buy a quality replacement just dont buy the solid avid ones unless you want the whole car to shake like a washer out of control.

2000civ

well time to get grinding it sounds like... are flapper disk so you can just get a better finish and easier to use?

2000civ

What would you recommend because I've heard all aftermarket mounts are gonna be stiff as **** and a lot more unnoticed vibrations,(as if the weren't enough before..haha)

cleansi

to tell you the truth i could not really find a good one....
i had avid and motion torque mounts and got rid of them asap... and believe it or not the oem one from the dealer was just as crappy so after going to a few parts stores i found the most descent one witch i don't remember a brand it was, from checkers they had 2 diff brands the one i choose was one complete rubber grommet unlike the oem one witch had spaces but im sure it will break soon. and i couldn't find energy inserts thats what i have for the rest of the car and love them...

but as stated already the mounts are not that necessary but i would still use them

2000civ

First quick clean up. Already looks 100 times better.





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jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Basically yes. If you don't have much experience using a grinder with the standard grinding wheel then the flapper is usually easier to control and takes material off slower. You can always grind more off, putting material back is more difficult. This isn't as much of a concern since you're grinding a mount and not the engine block.

As far as mounts go I run JimFab urethane tq mounts and rear mount with stock uppers ... and yes the car vibrates. But the engine doesn't rock at all and I don't get wheel hop. The inserts are a good alternative to stock mounts with less vibes than solid mounts.

2000civ

hmmm. thanks for the info. Im just gonna leave them and i could always switch mounts if wheel hop it a problem, but keeping it below 400 i dont see that being too crazy to handle.

2000civ

well next step i suppose would be to mount up intercooler? At any point im doing **** backwards or there is a better way plz don't hesitate to throw in ur 2 cents. Ive seen 2 ways to mount then a bar that sits on ur bumper support beam, or just drill in the support and use 2 bolts. will post pics later on i have 2 lil flat brackets on it now, but if its just on the botton of support it might sit too low.

2000civ

intercooler size 24x8x3.5", best idea is to mount or pics of how your's are mounted.



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jfoster

iTrader: (1)

You should be able to just drill 2 holes in your bumper support and bolt it on using the bungs on top.

That manifold does not have optimal waste gate placement so you'll want to watch out for boost creep/spikes.

2000civ

ya i actually just test fit everything up, and i was just gonna bend those tabs up into a L shape and bolt it, but your way sounds a little more secure. This may sound stupid but do those bolts ever really try to back out or get loose often if ever? As far as boost spike goes i really don't understand why WG placement is so important and why it happens.

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Wastegate placement should be such that all the runners have an equal opportunity to expel exhaust gasses from the wastegate. On or near the collector is typical. With the design on your manifold the gasses flowing through the other 3 runners would have to reach the collector and then reverse travel up that single runner to exit via the WG. When the pressure is too great they cannot fight "up stream" to escape and end up forced into the turbo causing it to continiue to spool faster / increase output ... and so the charge pressure slowly rises ...boost creep.

Now would be the optimal time to sell that mani and go with something better. Much easier now than after everything is in place and tuned.

As far as the fmic I have seen them bolted to the bumper support without issue. The bent tabs would likely allow the ic to flap, whereas bolting it directly should be firmer and allow you to set it back further (closer to the rad). Lock washers and some blue loctite are good insurance.

blackeg

damn that is some detailed information.


i think a better response is that if you are running an aftermarket mount you do not need them. i run more than 400hp and do not use that mount, just 3 hasports.

also, i hate to say it but you might want to try using a different manifold. the wastgate comes off only 1 runner instead of the collector area, and it looks like your egt bung is on #1 cyl, and the better placement would be #3 cyl and closer to the head.


you will get it, dont get down or anything. there is a lot of messing around and trial and error. it took me a good 6 months to put my first kit together and get it ironed out. then it got stolen 2 weeks later...go figure

2000civ

OK well 3rd manifold comment, so is it really that bad? The wastegate placement and collector I understand more now why. Ya i do have a egt gauge and probe, i know runner 3 is usually hottest, but does it really vary enough to matter what runner the bung is on. Also any one have recommendations on cheap but strong manifold. I'm guessing cast iron bc anything else shiny is pricy unless it breaks. Also if any spare mani's laying around through an offer my way.
Ya not discouraged or anything just anxious to get boosted, cars been 4 years in the making waaaay too long overdew. I'd rather do it right and slow then fast and bye bye motor.