fv8s

So this is my first turbo build on a freshly built motor by me. All internals are together and within spec. I just wanted some tips from all you guys that have done one or more of these builds on things to do before i bring it to the tuner and start it up for the first time. I know i have to prime the turbo and read the DIY's in the FI section.

This is my setup for reference

Jdm B20b Block. 84.5mm
GE Block Guard
84.5mm Ross Racing Pistions (9.0- 1)
Eagle Rods
ACl Race Bearings
ITR Pumps

b16a Head from an EG6
01 ITR cams
Supertech Valves (3 angle valve job)
Vitton valve seals
Blox Dual springs
Slightly milled
.060 thick HG
GE B20/Ls Vtec kit
ITR rep intake mani with 70 mm TB
ARP Head studs


Garret t3/ t40e turbo. stage 3 wheel
3 inch dp to exhaust
Endyn CC
RDL Ramhorn
2.5 inch intercooler piping
tial 50 mm (what spring sould i use 9 or 11 lbs)??
tial 38mm WG
precision 600 hp FMI

LS trans
Open diff
comp. stage 5 -4 puck
new synchros/ bearings

what oil should i use for break in ?
what type of coolant is best to run?
any tips before first starts.. do's and don'ts?
what psi should i expect to hit 400 hp with on this turbo?
is chrome reliable enough to tune this setup on?

i may have more questions... all help and knowledge is appreciated. please no rude or stupid comments im sure you have been at this point before

GinsterVRT

You got it, pull the fuel pump fuze and crank for 30 seconds before trying to run it. This will prime the bearing in the turbo so you don't spin it dry. I do not break in motors with turbos or supers on them, Use dino oil for break in, not synthetic. Is this a fresh engine aswell? Nice looking setup BTW.

fv8s

thank you very much for the positive response. yes this is fresh motor, new everything not half assed

non-VTEC

pull the plugs out so it will crank faster and pump the oil pressure up. and like VRT said use regular non-synthetic oil for break in....

use normal coolant. i like a 60/40 mix of water/coolant. usually works well as long as you have good air flow to the radiator and the cooling fan is good.

what are the specs on the t3/t04e? for 400whp it would have to be 17+psi depending on the turbo and tuning...

IMO i would ditch crome and go for neptune/ectune or hondata......if you are stuck using crome then make sure your tuner is very very good.....

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

i have never been to this point but looks and sounds like you are doing a good job keep up the good work man i like!!!!!!

boostedeg302

Looks great. Prime the turbo and use regular, non-synthetic oil for break in. You will hit 400whp at around 15psi or more (just a guess)

fv8s

the turbo is a .60 trim and since i have a large displacement block i think ill hit 400 whp between 16-18 psi. as for my tuner... i heard they tune real rich and sometimes really lean. im located in Buffalo NY and there is pretty much only one tuner with a dyno around here. i wanted to go to Evans but they do not tune Neptune or Crome they told me

fv8s

o and what exact oil... weight/ brand. i see a lot of break in oils out there like passwordjdm

2kdrift

hmmmm why not run n/a for the break in process?

Boosted-EH-804

How far are you from NRG thats where I would go if I where in the NY area. As far as everything pull the ecu fuse or the dizzy plug and prime the motor to get oil to all the vital stuff turbo included. And non synthetic oil for sure what are you using for a fan?

fv8s

as of now i have a stock fan. it looks stupid but function over form is my motto. im in Buffalo which is in the western New York area. i am good friends with the people at swerve motorsports that are really good at street tunes but i need a dyno tune. any suggestions on where else to go because i will need to tow my car to the tuner

fv8s

i thought about it, but i never want to run my car on a basemap. so ill have to get two tunes no matter what... one on really low boost for break in and then one on high boost. if i broke it in without boost i would need a tune then another tune on boost... so basically id rather have everything together and just get two tunes on boost

Poootie

i dont know if this helps any. But i have been using Castrol 10w40 (non-syn). And on a freshh build, i went straight to the Dyno and made 447whp on pump gas. (mid to high 11:1 A/F in boost...... and High 14:1s-low 15:1 A/F chilling in 5th at under 5500rpm, got close to 35-38 miles per galon when not on the throttle. I also had a Ls Trans. SC6162.).

Drove the car for 5 months, fairly regular, beating on it at times b4 i re-tuned on C16 for more power and only took it to the track.

BTY: I miss the car at the power and usability. It was FUN! So i Love your build, ENJOY!

fv8s

ha thnks a lot man. i hope i put down some comparable numbers to you. im sure it ripped!! and it almost seems like everyone runs a different oil... does anybody know or have had positive feedback using a break in oil? if not what other type of oil should i use?

here is one of my choices http://passwordjdm.com/Torco-TBO-Pre...P1971C762.aspx

and another is just non deterent oil from Auto Zone or Car Quest

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

GL on youre goal.
May i ask you. Why did you decide to run a b20b block. The sleves are tin. Im shure you know this. Just want to know ure side.?

fv8s

yes i know. people like to bash on me telling me im going to crack a sleeve or something is going to go wrong. honestly i can put another block together in a week if the internals do not get ruined. the blocks are cheap for one, they have the largest bore size of a B series, and its block guarded for a little extra protection. people have done it before and suceeded so i figured id try.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

Im not bashing...im in the peocess of sssllooowwwlllyyyyy building a b20v 84.5mm with cp 12.5 CR pistons...with aorund 13 CR total......just curious sometimes. Its all in the tune.

fv8s

no i know your not bashing me. im saying other people do.

igorka_91

iTrader: (1)

NP
GL

fv8s

does anybody know of any really good tuners in the NY/ PA area or even Ohio

s10cky

Maybe I am wrong here, but would he not benefit from a victor x, or a larger plenum style intake manifold with a build such as this one?

0Deatschwerks

Buschur Racing in Wakeman, Ohio. They are one of our authorized dealers/installers. They are most familiar with Evos (8/9 and X), but David is a tuner I'd trust with my car.

fv8s

i have a 70mm TB and a port matched Type R manifold... i will be just fine

fv8s

i have had a change of heart and decided that i am going to break my motor in NA. i realized i still need 1200 more dollars plus two tunes. i found a good tuner around here that will street tune my setup for me and make sure it runs properly. then during the winter i will boost it so when next season hits i can get my final tune on boost. all i need is a stock exhaust mani, an ex/si harness and stock injectors... im sure the motor will be a tad slow because the low compression ratio, but it helps that i have a built head and a large displacment block

blaze the chemi

I was going to say just break it in on the dyno. Put regular dino juice in there, I used pennzoil 10w-30, and prime then crank. Check for leaks and dumbass checks while it warms up and completes at least 3 coolant fan starts.

That way when you get to the dyno or street tune you'll be completely ready.

I wasn't going for the HP you are, but I walked away with a tuned motor on 93 octane doing 248whp. I was boosted for 17K miles before I got rid of the turbo , but have been NA since. I just rolled past 50K on the motor.

I remember my tuner slowly ramping up the rpms during the first several pulls then starting started to build boost slowly. When he got comfortable seeing the motor was going to hold after the 15th pull, it was on. Talk about holding your *******....

goodluck