I have plans to put together a boosted gsr motor soon. I currently have a complete gsr head, a complete gsr block, gsr tranny, and a .57 trim turbo.

my question is...what cams would be the best cams to go with for about 300-350 hp? how would a set of spoon cams do with a turbo setup? I did some quick.research earlier today and everything ive read about these cams led me to believe that they are best for n/a setups.

The reason why I ask this question is because I recently got a very good deal on a set..and I was wondering if I should use them in this build? Or sell them and go with something else? Im also planning on piston and rods. Suggestions? Im really shooting for a mild build that'll yield around 300hp. Thanks in advance!

 

stock gsr cams are just fine at that hp level. spend your money on the bottom end and machine work. a 57trim can put a stock gsr to 350whp without trouble.

 

stock gsr cams will easily get u 300whp. i would sell them and save up for rods and pistons. your gsr will make 300whp no problem. get a clutch and skunk2 im if u dont have one, my opinion. at least a clutch to handle the 300whp

 

Forgot to mention that I also havr a first gen sk2 im

What piston/rod combo should I go with? Any brands to avoid?

..if I do end up keeping the spoon cams, what other supporting upgrades should I look into to have this build going in the right direction?

 

I went with eagle rods and wiseco pistons, real street performance sells em with the rings for like 730$ shipped. Or you can pick a different brand of piston.

 

you have a few low cost choices, all are good

wiseco, cp and mahle are the 3 pistons that offer a great bang/buck

rods you have eagle and manley.

 

I ran eagle h-beams and 81.5mm (.20 over) wiseco pistons. Compression ratio was roughly 9.7:1.

 

Holy crap. Didnt know pistons/rods were that much :/... Whata a good compression ratio to aim for with my goal?

How about thesr spoon cams? Are they usable?...i already have them lol

 

Idk much about spoon cams but I would sell them if you still have the stock gsr cams. I would recommend going with:

Wiseco piston: K542M815 (Comp ratio: 9.7-10.2:1) They are .20 over so the block will have to be bored to 81.5mm and honed. It would be a good idea to do this to ensure that the rings seat properly.

Also, I would run a 0.30 mls cometic headgasket and get ARP headstuds while you are in there. The 3 layer headgasket will lower your compression to the 9.8-9.8 range. Alot of ppl will say they have had bad luck with cometic gaskets but it was the older design was problematic. I have never had any issues with their gaskets. I would recommend resurfacing the block as well so the HG seals perfectly. Be sure to spray it with a nice coat of copper headgasket spray as well.

Running on 93 octane you will not have any issues reaching your power goal. I've made 400whp on the same piston with the eagle rods using 93oct on a pistons and rod only gsr.

 

ask around in the itr section for the value of spoon cams. i'd guess like everything else spoon they are worth coin.

just make sure whatever piston you get is 4032 alloy. 2014 is overkill for 350whp and requires more pwc

mahle has one piston labeled as 10:5-1 that will come in just a tad over 10:1 if you use the light ferrera valves or blend the bowls of the head. that's even with shaving surface to to become true again. somewhere in that 9:5-1 to 10:5-1 range is where i would aim on a street car

 

Thanks for the response guys! As of right now, I want to tune at 91oct...theres not much to offer around my area in terms of higher octane. I want a street car that has some ***** (too many g35s, 350/370zs, and 8th gen sis around here that like to pick on my stock ls motor hahah)

I really dont want to dump too much money into this build, its going to be my daily for now. Should I go with the gsr or b16 tranny?...lsd needed for my goals?

 

Either a b16 or gsr trans would be fine for you, but b16s are kinda short IMO. Get a good clutch too, for your level a CC stage 4 would be enough. LSD is always good, but some of the nicer units get pricey. I guess it all depends on what you want to spend in the long run

 

Yz: I dont understand the different stages for clutch setups..i always thought that the higher the stage, the more aggresive/harsh it is. If thats true, will a stage 4 be necessary? I have a hard time enough driving with this 6 puck clutch I have in my stock car lol

 

had the same thought on clutches. now using the exedy stage 2 which drives stock-ish besides chatter on launch and in reverse. not quite as bad of an on/off switch as some others i have driven in different cars. if you stay under 285lb/tq it's a consideration.

 

The Clutchmasters stage 3 clutch is great for daily driving and easy engagement but has the holding power you want and will last a really long time as it's kevlar.

 

True, a kevlar disc may be alot more user friendly. I just recommended a competition stage4 because thats what I personally used and have had good luck with. I dont mind driving a sprung 6-puck, and they hold really well. I ran one for about a year on my em1 turbo street setup,(2.0gsr/35r/b16 trans,225BFG drag radials, full interior, etc; 500whp on 93oct) the clutch never slipped or had any issues.

 

Cc stg 4 ftw! Awesome product and awesome customer service.