Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
11-06-2013, 04:18 AM
#101
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Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
lolol that's funny, even more so that you posted about it haha
I haven't gone to bed yet (about to try) but if someone doesn't dig up a pic or make a quickie in paint by the time I wake up I'll make one real quick like
I haven't gone to bed yet (about to try) but if someone doesn't dig up a pic or make a quickie in paint by the time I wake up I'll make one real quick like
11-06-2013, 04:51 PM
#102
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So today I decided to redo the top side of the cold side piping. I wanted to eliminate the bends that were there and the pipe with the bov flange (90 degree next to throttle body) would no longer work cause the catch can was in the way for the bov. So now this is how the cold side will be and I can place the bov wherever I choose. Now I just need a coupler to finish up the hot side and then get it all welded up...then make it look pretty after that.
11-07-2013, 12:15 AM
#104
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Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
that ramhorn places the turbo much higher than a mini-ram (but I think you knew that already, you are just showing an example of an oil return with limited space)
To the OP (your username is a bitch to remember and type lol) If you don't have a moroso pan, I would try and put your oil return fitting in the same location as the moroso pan, this will give you some extra wiggle room and the longer drain line length will make using braided line and an fittings so much easier
a lot of the mini rams oil returns I see are a 45 degree fitting off of the oil drain, less than 3" of braided line then another 45 degree fitting at the pan. Running the return like this makes installing the an fittings on the line an absolute bitch and installing the completed line is no easy task either
This is because there isn't enough braided line between fittings to allow you to bend the drain line to get it in place... sometimes you'll also have issues with getting the fittings threaded on to the pan and the turbo drain as the slightest misalignment can cause them to not want to thread in properly or easily.
To the OP (your username is a bitch to remember and type lol) If you don't have a moroso pan, I would try and put your oil return fitting in the same location as the moroso pan, this will give you some extra wiggle room and the longer drain line length will make using braided line and an fittings so much easier
a lot of the mini rams oil returns I see are a 45 degree fitting off of the oil drain, less than 3" of braided line then another 45 degree fitting at the pan. Running the return like this makes installing the an fittings on the line an absolute bitch and installing the completed line is no easy task either
This is because there isn't enough braided line between fittings to allow you to bend the drain line to get it in place... sometimes you'll also have issues with getting the fittings threaded on to the pan and the turbo drain as the slightest misalignment can cause them to not want to thread in properly or easily.
11-07-2013, 10:51 PM
#105
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
that ramhorn places the turbo much higher than a mini-ram (but I think you knew that already, you are just showing an example of an oil return with limited space)
To the OP (your username is a bitch to remember and type lol) If you don't have a moroso pan, I would try and put your oil return fitting in the same location as the moroso pan, this will give you some extra wiggle room and the longer drain line length will make using braided line and an fittings so much easier
a lot of the mini rams oil returns I see are a 45 degree fitting off of the oil drain, less than 3" of braided line then another 45 degree fitting at the pan. Running the return like this makes installing the an fittings on the line an absolute bitch and installing the completed line is no easy task either
This is because there isn't enough braided line between fittings to allow you to bend the drain line to get it in place... sometimes you'll also have issues with getting the fittings threaded on to the pan and the turbo drain as the slightest misalignment can cause them to not want to thread in properly or easily.
To the OP (your username is a bitch to remember and type lol) If you don't have a moroso pan, I would try and put your oil return fitting in the same location as the moroso pan, this will give you some extra wiggle room and the longer drain line length will make using braided line and an fittings so much easier
a lot of the mini rams oil returns I see are a 45 degree fitting off of the oil drain, less than 3" of braided line then another 45 degree fitting at the pan. Running the return like this makes installing the an fittings on the line an absolute bitch and installing the completed line is no easy task either
This is because there isn't enough braided line between fittings to allow you to bend the drain line to get it in place... sometimes you'll also have issues with getting the fittings threaded on to the pan and the turbo drain as the slightest misalignment can cause them to not want to thread in properly or easily.
11-16-2013, 04:43 PM
#106
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
Question on Injectors. I'm looking into getting some id 1000's, but can't figure out which ones I need. The motor is an obd1 b16a and the car is a 92 integra.
These both come with the same top hat (blue 11mm) but the part numbers are different.
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...-95-civic.html
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...5-integra.html
These both come with the same top hat (blue 11mm) but the part numbers are different.
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...-95-civic.html
http://www.t1racedevelopment.com/ind...5-integra.html
11-17-2013, 09:40 PM
#107
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So forget the injectors. I have new **** to buy first =[
So a sad, disappointing, depressing, set back of a day for me and my integra. I decided to drain my oil and pull my pan for the hell of it. Had no real reason to other than my friend and I were bored. Well I drained the oil and everything looked fine. I ran a magnet through it and there weren't any metal shavings or flakes at all. I then went ahead and pulled the pan off. I then brought it out in the sun to see if there were any copper bearing flakes in it. After a few minutes of examining I found zero copper flakes in the pan at all. I was really happy at this point knowing my bearing were good. I then dumped out what was left in the pan and that's when I noticed something was wrong. I found some thick dark gray slug on the bottom of the pan. I rubbed my finger on it and on my finger it looked more grayish brown and my first thought was "oooooh ****". I grabbed a flashlight, got underneath my car and saw something that maybe my heart sink. I saw on that baffle thing that bolts to the bottom of the crank...bright green drops. I got that thing off the car and then I saw my rod bolts had milky white/brown oil on them. I looked up at into the cylinder walls and on the bottom side of cylinder #2 and #3 and I saw green drops hanging. I knew at that moment I had a major problem and that the head gasket was more than likely blown =[ Anyway enough talking, here are some photos of exactly what I saw
Bottom side of crank and rod bolts
This is the bottom side of cylinder #2
Topside of the baffle pan or whatever it is that covers the bottom side of the crank
I talked to a friend who has been building cars longer than I've been alive and he told me it could be a crack in one of the cylinder walls. That scared me. He then told me to set each cylinder to tdc, pressurize my coolant system and get under the car to check for new drips or leaks. I did this didn't see any drips form or any leaks. The coolant system held steady pressure at 15 psi (which is what we set it to). This told him that there wasn't a crank in the cylinder walls and that it was a head gasket leak. He also mentioned it could be that the head studs stretched and that allowed the head gasket to leak slightly.
The car has been down for a month or so while I've been putting the turbo stuff on. Before I put it down it ran great. I never had any issues with how it ran. It never smoked. I never had to add coolant to it. So my guess is this issue came up recently cause of that, and that the oil looked alright until I looked deep into the pan itself. The coolant also doesn't seem to have oil in it. Not that I can tell at least. I have yet to drain that.
Long story I know, but I had to tell it. I've pulled my motor before, but I've never had this issue and I've never had to pull a head off a motor. This is gonna be a learning experience for me I guess. I'm glad I caught this before everything was done. It would of gotten way worse when boosted. I'm gonna find out what head gasket to get, arp head studs, and get the head decked since I've been told that has to be done when doing a head gasket. I'm broke as ****, but if I can I'll get the head port and polished as well.
I'll post updates as things happen...ugh I'm bummed
So a sad, disappointing, depressing, set back of a day for me and my integra. I decided to drain my oil and pull my pan for the hell of it. Had no real reason to other than my friend and I were bored. Well I drained the oil and everything looked fine. I ran a magnet through it and there weren't any metal shavings or flakes at all. I then went ahead and pulled the pan off. I then brought it out in the sun to see if there were any copper bearing flakes in it. After a few minutes of examining I found zero copper flakes in the pan at all. I was really happy at this point knowing my bearing were good. I then dumped out what was left in the pan and that's when I noticed something was wrong. I found some thick dark gray slug on the bottom of the pan. I rubbed my finger on it and on my finger it looked more grayish brown and my first thought was "oooooh ****". I grabbed a flashlight, got underneath my car and saw something that maybe my heart sink. I saw on that baffle thing that bolts to the bottom of the crank...bright green drops. I got that thing off the car and then I saw my rod bolts had milky white/brown oil on them. I looked up at into the cylinder walls and on the bottom side of cylinder #2 and #3 and I saw green drops hanging. I knew at that moment I had a major problem and that the head gasket was more than likely blown =[ Anyway enough talking, here are some photos of exactly what I saw
Bottom side of crank and rod bolts
This is the bottom side of cylinder #2
Topside of the baffle pan or whatever it is that covers the bottom side of the crank
I talked to a friend who has been building cars longer than I've been alive and he told me it could be a crack in one of the cylinder walls. That scared me. He then told me to set each cylinder to tdc, pressurize my coolant system and get under the car to check for new drips or leaks. I did this didn't see any drips form or any leaks. The coolant system held steady pressure at 15 psi (which is what we set it to). This told him that there wasn't a crank in the cylinder walls and that it was a head gasket leak. He also mentioned it could be that the head studs stretched and that allowed the head gasket to leak slightly.
The car has been down for a month or so while I've been putting the turbo stuff on. Before I put it down it ran great. I never had any issues with how it ran. It never smoked. I never had to add coolant to it. So my guess is this issue came up recently cause of that, and that the oil looked alright until I looked deep into the pan itself. The coolant also doesn't seem to have oil in it. Not that I can tell at least. I have yet to drain that.
Long story I know, but I had to tell it. I've pulled my motor before, but I've never had this issue and I've never had to pull a head off a motor. This is gonna be a learning experience for me I guess. I'm glad I caught this before everything was done. It would of gotten way worse when boosted. I'm gonna find out what head gasket to get, arp head studs, and get the head decked since I've been told that has to be done when doing a head gasket. I'm broke as ****, but if I can I'll get the head port and polished as well.
I'll post updates as things happen...ugh I'm bummed
11-17-2013, 10:03 PM
#108
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Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
weird to see coolant just sitting on the bottom end. More than likely the pressure in the system forced coolant past the gasket after the motor was shut off...
If you pressurized your cooling system to check for leaks, pressure should have dropped slightly and forced more coolant past the gasket... weird
If you pressurized your cooling system to check for leaks, pressure should have dropped slightly and forced more coolant past the gasket... weird
11-17-2013, 10:05 PM
#109
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
weird to see coolant just sitting on the bottom end. More than likely the pressure in the system forced coolant past the gasket after the motor was shut off...
If you pressurized your cooling system to check for leaks, pressure should have dropped slightly and forced more coolant past the gasket... weird
If you pressurized your cooling system to check for leaks, pressure should have dropped slightly and forced more coolant past the gasket... weird
It ran just fine the last time I drove it though. The pressure held right at 15 psi earlier and I had rubbed all that coolant and oil off so I watched and saw no new drips or leaks or anything.
11-18-2013, 02:40 PM
#110
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So I drained the coolant out of the radiator, removed the front block drain plug, and drained the coolant from around the cylinders as well. This is how it looks
...Perfectly green. No sign of any oil in the coolant at all. Only thing that is in there is dirt and dead bugs that were in the bucket prior to me putting coolant in it. This I find interesting...
...Perfectly green. No sign of any oil in the coolant at all. Only thing that is in there is dirt and dead bugs that were in the bucket prior to me putting coolant in it. This I find interesting...
11-18-2013, 03:11 PM
#111
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Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
Youre good, rip the head off slap the arp headstuds (you need in there anyway) on, oem headgasket and put it back together.
Port the head later. Crank up the psi if you want more power. Get this thing moving aleady.
There's nothing scary about doing a headgasket.
As you take bolts off put them back where they go and you'll be fine.
The cam cap bolts I like to keep in the same exact spots too. Change you're timing belt and tensioner while you're in there.
Port the head later. Crank up the psi if you want more power. Get this thing moving aleady.
There's nothing scary about doing a headgasket.
As you take bolts off put them back where they go and you'll be fine.
The cam cap bolts I like to keep in the same exact spots too. Change you're timing belt and tensioner while you're in there.
11-19-2013, 06:15 PM
#112
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So today I set up a table in my garage to set the head, cams and all the other nuts and bolts that have to come out on. I also went ahead and unhooked everything that was attached to the head other than the timing belt. I'm waiting to do that until I get the crank pulley tool. I also labeled everything this time and put all the nuts and bolts in labeled bags. When I pulled the motor out in 2011 I didn't label anything and just threw all the bolts into one big bucket. I will never make that mistake again.
11-23-2013, 05:20 PM
#113
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
Everything is off and out ready to pull the head off tomorrow. We got one hell of a cold front the other day dropping us down into the 30's (that's low for central Texas) so I'm glad my car is in the garage. At least it's not too bad in there.
Here are the pictures of what I did to it today
Keeping everything organized
All nuts and bolts put into labeled bags so I don't misplace or lose anything
So I had never held a cam before, heavier than I expected it to be. Head is coming off tomorrow and I will learn the fate of my motor....nervous, but excited to just find out all ready
Here are the pictures of what I did to it today
Keeping everything organized
All nuts and bolts put into labeled bags so I don't misplace or lose anything
So I had never held a cam before, heavier than I expected it to be. Head is coming off tomorrow and I will learn the fate of my motor....nervous, but excited to just find out all ready
11-24-2013, 05:08 PM
#114
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So I pulled the head off today...and this is what I found.
First things first. This is what I immediately saw after removing the head
I found coolant down in cylinder #2 & #3 =[
I looked as closely as I could at the cylinder walls/sleeves and didn't see any cracks, scoring, or any signs of leaks which made me feel a lot better
Onto the head gasket. At first sight I didn't see an immediate tell tail failure spot. After talking to a friend I sent the photos to, he pointed it out. Apparently the black stuff on the gasket is a sealant type material and if you look in between cylinders 2 & 3 you can see there is none of that black material left.
Apparently that was the failure point, which makes sense why I only have coolant in cylinders 2 & 3. Cylinders 1 & 4 are completely dry
Now this is the part where I got nervous again. When looking at the bottom of my head I noticed the exhaust valves looked pretty bad and on the cylinders that were leaking I see what appears to be pitting on them.
From what my friend who I sent the photos to told me, that is just a bunch of carbon build up due to the coolant being in there. The valves on cylinders 1 & 4 don't have that look to them, and on cylinder 2 it's not that bad. It's on cylinder #3 that it looks the worse and that is the cylinder that had the most coolant in it.
My plan moving forward right now is to take the head to a machine shop and have everything checked out on it. If anything needs to be replaced, even the valves, I will replace them.
All in all I'm really glad I caught this when I did and that it isn't anything worse than a blown head gasket. Everything will get cleaned up before it's put back together, the head, the tops of the pistons, and every gasket or seal on the head will be replaced as needed too. I'll post back when things progress
First things first. This is what I immediately saw after removing the head
I found coolant down in cylinder #2 & #3 =[
I looked as closely as I could at the cylinder walls/sleeves and didn't see any cracks, scoring, or any signs of leaks which made me feel a lot better
Onto the head gasket. At first sight I didn't see an immediate tell tail failure spot. After talking to a friend I sent the photos to, he pointed it out. Apparently the black stuff on the gasket is a sealant type material and if you look in between cylinders 2 & 3 you can see there is none of that black material left.
Apparently that was the failure point, which makes sense why I only have coolant in cylinders 2 & 3. Cylinders 1 & 4 are completely dry
Now this is the part where I got nervous again. When looking at the bottom of my head I noticed the exhaust valves looked pretty bad and on the cylinders that were leaking I see what appears to be pitting on them.
From what my friend who I sent the photos to told me, that is just a bunch of carbon build up due to the coolant being in there. The valves on cylinders 1 & 4 don't have that look to them, and on cylinder 2 it's not that bad. It's on cylinder #3 that it looks the worse and that is the cylinder that had the most coolant in it.
My plan moving forward right now is to take the head to a machine shop and have everything checked out on it. If anything needs to be replaced, even the valves, I will replace them.
All in all I'm really glad I caught this when I did and that it isn't anything worse than a blown head gasket. Everything will get cleaned up before it's put back together, the head, the tops of the pistons, and every gasket or seal on the head will be replaced as needed too. I'll post back when things progress
11-24-2013, 06:49 PM
#115
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Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
The machine shop will clean those valves right up and they'll look brand New again.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
11-24-2013, 07:20 PM
#116
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
The machine shop will clean those valves right up and they'll look brand New again.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
11-24-2013, 08:39 PM
#118
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
The machine shop will clean those valves right up and they'll look brand New again.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
Question: when you put the head back on do you plan on starting it up and going? Or still need some more parts?
If it was me I would pull that motor out and get the block honed and slap some new rings in. You pretty much need like 30 min to take the block out from where you're at. And since you you took the head off its not too heavy to pull out with 2 people.
Idk how long you plan to run this stock block so it might make sense or not.
Keep it up. I just finished my lsv build tonight and getting ready to put it in the chassis tomorrow.
lol
...you are wrong sir
11-26-2013, 05:39 PM
#119
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
Went ahead and cleaned all the carbon build up off the pistons.
Cylinder #1 cleaned up
Doing work like a surgeon operates lol
Got them all cleaned off and looking fresh again. No signs of damage to the pistons =]
Cylinder #1 cleaned up
Doing work like a surgeon operates lol
Got them all cleaned off and looking fresh again. No signs of damage to the pistons =]
12-17-2013, 06:41 PM
#120
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
So things that have been ordered. Cometic head gasket, arp head studs, oem honda valve seals, euroexport valve spring compressor for hondas, oem iacv gasket, oem valve cover gasket, tps gasket, throttle body gasket, rear block plug (to delete the rest of the pcv system). I think that's about it..oh and a tube of hondadond =]. Anyway I ordered the spring compressor cause I decided to rip apart the head myself. Not only cause it'll save a bunch of money at the machine shop, but I'll learn how to do it and that's what I want. I'll rip it apart, clean it as best as I can and then take it up to have it milled. I'm going to install my oil feed line tomorrow, and when all this is done I can make the oil return and at least get the motor running again. I'll still be on stock injectors, but that will be alright just to idle it and make sure the head gasket and everything is good.
Not really photos worth sharing, but here is the small stuff I've been working on. Changed the color scheme from black and yellow to black and bronze. Also painted the tb, iacv, and fpr silver to make them look new. I need to respray the front of my block silver as well. It's not really dirty, but I like my stuff to look a clean as possible
Not really photos worth sharing, but here is the small stuff I've been working on. Changed the color scheme from black and yellow to black and bronze. Also painted the tb, iacv, and fpr silver to make them look new. I need to respray the front of my block silver as well. It's not really dirty, but I like my stuff to look a clean as possible
12-18-2013, 04:08 PM
#121
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
One step closer =] Oil feed is on. That other line is for my oil pressure gauge, and yes I know those nylon lines suck. The reason it's over that coolant hose is to keep it straight coming out of the sandwich plate. It got pinched before and there was a small crack so this just holds it straight. And the electrical tape over that hose is just there so the nylon line doesn't rub on the metal clamp on the hose. Looks ghetto, but it's not there cause the hose is broken or anything. Cheap oil pressure gauge so I make do with what I've got
And this is how it sits as of now =[ Looks way worse than it really is
And this is how it sits as of now =[ Looks way worse than it really is
12-20-2013, 01:26 PM
#123
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
I went ahead and cleaned the tops of the cylinder walls/sleeves off. I think they're clean enough, but not sure.
There is still some black stuff on the very edge in some spots that will not come off no matter what I do. It's a really tiny amount, but idk if that is going to be a problem
12-20-2013, 05:42 PM
#125
Re: Finally Getting My Turbo Set Up Going
O_o what? I'm acting "snobby as hell" for politely declining your offer due to the fact that what I'm currently using is working and I see no reason to change it to something else? Now had I come back and said something along the lines of "No, your an fittings are junk. What I'm using is far superior to anything else available at this time". That would of been "snobby as hell". I think you need to look up the definition of "snobby" sir. Actually here you go I'll do the work for you. http://www.thefreedictionary.com/snobby 