Fi vs na longevity
Oh great here we go again with all the T3 this and T3/T4 that BS again. You guys need to learn just HOW MANY different turbos are in each "class". The options are practically endless if you consider all brands. Unless specific trims are stated the answer is much to vague - like if someone asks which car is yours and you say the one with black tires. Stop adding to the typical forum ignorance. If you don't know what you are talking about then wait until someone who does posts. 
To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.

To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.
As far as good t3/t4 turbos, from what I understand a garret t3/t04e 57 trim with a .63 ar t3 housing are very quick to spool, make good power, and arent too expensive depending on where you buy em. They arent watercooled, so youll want a turbo timer or to just be mindful that they need a cool down period before shut down to keep them from cooking the oil
I agree ^ there are thousands of t3, t3/t4, etc turbos. Just saying you have a t3 turbo is just like you said, saying your car is the one with black tires
I agree ^ there are thousands of t3, t3/t4, etc turbos. Just saying you have a t3 turbo is just like you said, saying your car is the one with black tires
Oh great here we go again with all the T3 this and T3/T4 that BS again. You guys need to learn just HOW MANY different turbos are in each "class". The options are practically endless if you consider all brands. Unless specific trims are stated the answer is much to vague
To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.
To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.
Water cooled CHRAs are great and all, but I would hardly call them necessary for longevity.
To M4xwellmurd3r's post, turbo timers are also unnecessary...if you spend 15-30 seconds idling your car down before shutting it off, you can pocket the $100 you would have wasted on a turbo timer.
I'll +1 the comment about the T3/T4 Garret 57 trim .63 ar housing being a decent turbo. I've got one. It is oil cooled only. I don't suggest a turbo timer. Just give yourself a couple extra minutes to sit and cool down. Not really hard to do, but it's a weird habit to get into it.
I'll +1 the comment about the T3/T4 Garret 57 trim .63 ar housing being a decent turbo. I've got one. It is oil cooled only. I don't suggest a turbo timer. Just give yourself a couple extra minutes to sit and cool down. Not really hard to do, but it's a weird habit to get into it.
Like I said though, turbo timers arent needed as long as youre mindful that you need to let the car idle a little while before you shut it off.
57 trim 25PSI?, I had a 57 trim and never brought it up that high but I did make 480whp on 19 psi with it..
Garrett t3/t4 57 trim is a good turbo for what you are looking for..
I have also ran the Garrett 60 trim, 60-1, 67mm and now on the t3/t61mm turbo.
Garrett t3/t4 57 trim is a good turbo for what you are looking for..
I have also ran the Garrett 60 trim, 60-1, 67mm and now on the t3/t61mm turbo.
Thats what I told him lol. The heads got the flow to support over 500hp I believe.
The guy he built the engine for trashed the rod bearings though. Sounds like he didnt maintain it well and dogged the hell out of it. It only had 3k miles on the engine
The guy he built the engine for trashed the rod bearings though. Sounds like he didnt maintain it well and dogged the hell out of it. It only had 3k miles on the engine
Both will put abnormal amounts of strain on the stock components. It depends on the tune, parts used, and type of use. A well set up motor, NA or FI, will last if proper care is taken and quality parts are used.
/end-thread?
/end-thread?
Oh great here we go again with all the T3 this and T3/T4 that BS again. You guys need to learn just HOW MANY different turbos are in each "class". The options are practically endless if you consider all brands. Unless specific trims are stated the answer is much to vague - like if someone asks which car is yours and you say the one with black tires. Stop adding to the typical forum ignorance. If you don't know what you are talking about then wait until someone who does posts. 
To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.

To be of any help to you OP you need to lay out some things about what you want:
Power
Budget
Purpose
Built engine or not
And any other relevant point you think pertains to your setup. For reliability you will want a turbo that is water cooled without a doubt. This will help with hot shut downs but should still be avoided all together.
power- 230-275hp and 200lb or so of torque
budget- I'd like to stay under 5k if possible but like I stated before I'm not looking to do this tomorrow so I have some time to save a little more money if needed, the biggest thing is that I want to do this right because I plan on having this car for a long time.
Purpose- it's going to be a dd, no racing intended but I want the car to be able to get out of its own way and still be good on gas.
Engine built- yes I'm going to do some work to the engine, nothing crazy, because that seems like the right way to do things.
So I'm not sure how I'm adding to the "typical ignorance" as you so stated. I was originally just asking which would be more reliable and better economically, and somewhere along the line the discussion veered off a bit. I have my answer though and it's the turbo that I think would be best for me.
Your goal is very contradicting.
You don't want to race yet want 230-270 whp. That's a widegap and a lot of power.
Where do you want the max power at? Obviously not redline since you already stated its for daily driving.
For that goal I would go b20 with a gt28. Tons of tq and all where you want it.
You don't want to race yet want 230-270 whp. That's a widegap and a lot of power.
Where do you want the max power at? Obviously not redline since you already stated its for daily driving.
For that goal I would go b20 with a gt28. Tons of tq and all where you want it.
B20 in ca is not legal so that's a no. Not really interested in an ls. My z6 runs strong and I think I wanna stay with that. I say 230-275hp because I'm not sure where my hp is going to need to be to produce the torque I want. Just because I want the power and performance doesn't mean I'm going to be racing and with those kind of number's I would probably be one of the slowest things at a track. I might run it once or twice just to see where it stands but that would probably be it. Not really sure where I want max power at, I have to decide if I'm going to stick with the vx tranny I have or if I'm going to go with an ex/si tranny.
Once again I started this with the intentions of finding out some "real" info about Fi vs na reliability and economy so I could choose a direction to go in because there's a lot of stuff that says contradicting things. So all things said I've only recently decided to go with a turbo setup so I don't have every answer. I'm in the process of researching and narrowing things down right now but it's a bit of a slow process
Once again I started this with the intentions of finding out some "real" info about Fi vs na reliability and economy so I could choose a direction to go in because there's a lot of stuff that says contradicting things. So all things said I've only recently decided to go with a turbo setup so I don't have every answer. I'm in the process of researching and narrowing things down right now but it's a bit of a slow process
Greddy or edlebrock kits from what I know of.
I'm actually going to look at an 18g greddy turbo kit tonight. Wana do a high comp build.
Also I live in cali and have no problem with getting pulled over. I also don't drive like a dick in traffic, have my car slammed or a 3 inch open dump after my oil pan.
Stock piping all the way to the muffler and a cutout for the track. Made around 260ish with the cutout closed and the car idled like stock and sounded stock.
What area do you live in?
I'm actually going to look at an 18g greddy turbo kit tonight. Wana do a high comp build.
Also I live in cali and have no problem with getting pulled over. I also don't drive like a dick in traffic, have my car slammed or a 3 inch open dump after my oil pan.
Stock piping all the way to the muffler and a cutout for the track. Made around 260ish with the cutout closed and the car idled like stock and sounded stock.
What area do you live in?
i was just going to say the edelbrock kit is legal. my thoughts go out to you guys for living in california where they want to **** dictate your every move in life (not like ny is any better)
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