Targa4Life

Im little confused as to some of the issues regarding sleeving a block and since I recently blew the wall out of cylinder #1 I want to sleeve it....
First of all, here is a pic of my block....






Can this be sleeved. I heard someone say that since the cylinder is broken it would be too hard to remove the old sleeves....?

Also, what problems arise when sleeving a block...? Is cooling an issue?
What would be the best brand of sleeve to buy?
And the one thing I really dont understand is..... Since aftermarket sleeves are so strong why does anyone put anything smaler than 84mm sleeves in their block? I mean your not really limited anymore are you?

Oh and aftermarket sleeves can be bored as well right?
Thanks for the help with this. There are so many brands of sleeves that I want to make sure I get the best for my money...

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

you would save that cylinder with a blockgaurd I've done it.

but now I am looking into resleeving, and since my budget is so low, if I do it I will start from 81mm so that if it blow it will have more than one more chance for a overbore.

I like the look of aebs, and darton, but golden eagle seems to be good also.

everyone is crazy over benson sleeves, but I dont like the idea of a open deck sleeve on a high hp car no matter how strong they claim to be, I would still add a brace on it.

but bump it up cause I would like to see some opinions myself.

komat

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rudebwoy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you would save that cylinder with a blockgaurd I've done it.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>

whats your prove that your blockgaurd saved your sleeves

blackeg

here's what mine looked like after it blew and before it sleeved.



i had to spend an extra 125 dollars on welding, cus the crack in the sleeve went down farther than where they usually cut the oe sleeves.

to answer your questions, yes it can be sleeved.

but, i would just pick up another block. i had a weird coolant mixing issue for a while and it might have been due to the block having an oil journal slightly punctured from the sleeve pieces. you can get already sleeved blocks from golden eagle for less than 1000 bucks, and i know for a fact those blocks are good for 550+ whp

B6tizzleHatch

my old b16 block looked like that!! except i nailed 3 outa 4! ...almost hit a homerun

hybridmoments

i know Redshifts motorsports EF civic has had there benson sleeves sink more then once. i can't say if that is due to machine shop error or the sleeves themselves.

Seems that with the sleeves it's all about proper installation.
from what Justice Racing Engines said you also need to do a Main Hone after installation . i don't believe they have had any failures on their sleeve installations
anytime you are cutting or pressing in major structures into a block there is going to be movement.

jdmcoop

i know it can be resleeved. its not cracked far enough down to where it can't be resleeved.

i would send it to erl and they can install the darton mid sleeve kit. there machineing quality in my opinon is better then the competition, or at least then the block my friends had done by other people. i would definately send it to erl. heres there website

http://www.erlperformance.com

ValleySyder

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SprayinRHD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i know it can be resleeved. its not cracked far enough down to where it can't be resleeved.

i would send it to erl and they can install the darton mid sleeve kit. there machineing quality in my opinon is better then the competition, or at least then the block my friends had done by other people. i would definately send it to erl. heres there website

http://www.erlperformance.com</TD></TR></TABLE>



x2 ask for sean ... he is the man there...or contact your local ERL Dealer.. they should be able to pop some MID's in there and you shhould go ..

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by komat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

whats your prove that your blockgaurd saved your sleeves</TD></TR></TABLE>

what your proof that it don't?
I melted and shattered all my pistons in my first turbo block 20psi , sleeves were still perfect.
my friend spun a rod bearing in his b16 25psi messed up a lot of **** sleeves still perfect. always using blockgaurd.

I plan on getting a sleeved block with brace, but I am still running a block gaurd until I get it.

earl

Block guards were designed to keep the oem cylinder walls in place. Boost can cause the cylinders to rock back and forth. That motion can cause a head gasket to blow. If you lose a tune-up with a block guard in place, you will just blow out the cylinder below it anyway. Block guards were not designed to make the cylinder stronger, just to hold them in place.
The oem cylinders are strong for short periods of time. That is why you occasionally hear of large HP numbers on a stock block. Tune-ups will change as certain parts wear in. Something happens and the results are broken cylinder walls.
We get at least one block per week coming in for sleeving with the block guard still in place but the cylinder is broken inside of it.
Whether an aftermarket sleeve is braced on the side to hold in place, like the MID or it is a stand alone sleeve, both sleeves are equally as strong. They are all made from dutile iron. The real factor is the quality of the machinist doing the install. There are good guys out there installing sleeves and there are also some very bad installers. Unfortunately, the average user does not have the tools or experience to tell the difference. If you are the person looking at a sleeve and saying that one sleeve is stronger than another, you are really misinformed on what makes a good sleeve and a good sleeve job.

mra4886

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can get already sleeved blocks from golden eagle for less than 1000 bucks, and i know for a fact those blocks are good for 550+ whp</TD></TR></TABLE>
where do you get a sleeved block from them for less than 1k. i went to heir website and they didnt have any prices on them.

Garage 808 Hatch

camp 1320

Danny_EJ

Open deck is the best for cooling reasons...

I would go with Benson, AEBS, GE, Darton, those names.

Sleeved blocks can be bored, yes. I would choose 83mm and it leaves room for future rebuilds. I would stay away from O-Ringed style sleeves.

I have had positive experience with Earl laskey and benson machine work but BE WARNED*****

THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS PROCESS IS PACKAGING YOUR BLOCK!!!!!!!!!

My block was damaged both times I shipped it and If I ever have to have the block sleeved again I am just driving it to whoever is doing the work.

I would recommend benson sleeves and laskey racing machine work. Earls customer service is excellent and he goes above and beyond to help.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Block guards were designed to keep the oem cylinder walls in place. Boost can cause the cylinders to rock back and forth. That motion can cause a head gasket to blow. If you lose a tune-up with a block guard in place, you will just blow out the cylinder below it anyway. Block guards were not designed to make the cylinder stronger, just to hold them in place.
The oem cylinders are strong for short periods of time. That is why you occasionally hear of large HP numbers on a stock block. Tune-ups will change as certain parts wear in. Something happens and the results are broken cylinder walls.
We get at least one block per week coming in for sleeving with the block guard still in place but the cylinder is broken inside of it.
Whether an aftermarket sleeve is braced on the side to hold in place, like the MID or it is a stand alone sleeve, both sleeves are equally as strong. They are all made from dutile iron. The real factor is the quality of the machinist doing the install. There are good guys out there installing sleeves and there are also some very bad installers. Unfortunately, the average user does not have the tools or experience to tell the difference. If you are the person looking at a sleeve and saying that one sleeve is stronger than another, you are really misinformed on what makes a good sleeve and a good sleeve job. </TD></TR></TABLE>

thats somewhat I meant to say about blockgaurds, it protects to an extent, unlike a stock block without one. I know my block that blew would have done more damade if it was not braced.

and for the epen deck comment I would just sleep better know that the sleeves are also braced. same with the blockgaurd, I feel a lot better with it installed. I drove daily on a stock sleeved ls/vtec with a blockgaurd 21psi on a sc61 average speeds of 120mph and 60 miles. no issues. right now I am getting a sleeved block before my run out, I just blew the turbo the block still holding on.

jdmcoop

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Block guards were designed to keep the oem cylinder walls in place. Boost can cause the cylinders to rock back and forth. That motion can cause a head gasket to blow. If you lose a tune-up with a block guard in place, you will just blow out the cylinder below it anyway. </TD></TR></TABLE>

You mention that the sleeves move back and forth when they are open deck, but why do you sell open deck blocks for benson. The sleeves bensons uses will be stronger than stock but they are going to want to move back and forth still because there opendeck especially when you cut down the can on the block as far as you do, it gives it less holding strength up top which will allow it to move fairly easy.