The AC line in my car is right by the turbo, its rapped but still its very close. It blows pretty warm, but it hasnt been recharged for a while. Will it ever blow cold, or because its so close to the hot *** turbo will it always be warm?

I'm asking becuase I still havent sold my other car so I cant get a beater to drive daily and its hot as hell in the afternoons.


Modified by Atheist at 11:50 PM 6/8/2004

 

If its wraped it should get at least a little cold. Mine is still cold! I would say get a recharge My .02$$$

 

Mine got so hot it actually set my AC line insulation on fire! Boy that was scary. But I wrapped the line with this hose thermal wrap from DEI. Now my AC is cold again.

 

DEI? Show me where you got this stuff...I know I'm going to need it.

 

summit sells it. I wrapped my lines with that also. It's good up too 2000 ambient temps, which is as long as it dosen't touch the wrap it should be good.

 

http://www.designengineering.com/

Got mine from Summit.

 

Which one did you order from summit. Part number please

 

Andy it depends on how much you want>

the 12x12 sheet is THE-13500 $9.88

the 12x24 sheet is THE-13575 $17.88

 

Aight, I will have to see how much I need, but I'll probably just get the larger sheet to be on the safe side. I need to wrap all my AC lines.

 

DEI-010405

Only issue with it is that its kinda big and they dont make a smaller diamter shroud with velcro. $30

 

use regular header wrap and then cover it with aluminum foil tape, you can buy it at home depot in the ducting department.

cheap and effective

 

I've heard of people just using the aluminum tape stuff from home depot etc, but the stuff I found had no heat rating on it, not sure if it could withstand engine bay heat....

 

take the ac out , lose 70 ponds and gain a hp or two

 

Thanks for all of the good info guys. Im going to recharge my AC tomorrow.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VacantBanana &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">take the ac out , lose 70 ponds and gain a hp or two </TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks for the bright idea captain. Do you really think that, given the text in my original post, I would concider taking it out if itd work? No. Becuase its hot, and 70lbs doesnt mean **** to me when Im hot. When Im hot, being cold is the only thing that matters. Don't be a bandwagoner, 'delete AC, delete ps' etc etc. Useless post.

 

see now if u took out the ac youd sweat more also, and get lighter, ud be on ure way to 9 sec 1/4 miles man. jesus taking crap so seriously, easy up buddy i was joking around, and i didnt join a "bandwagon" because ive never ever seen take post.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOrSfEd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Andy it depends on how much you want&gt;

the 12x12 sheet is THE-13500 $9.88

the 12x24 sheet is THE-13575 $17.88</TD></TR></TABLE>

That stuff seems to be the best since it not only withstands a lot of heat, but its got a self adhesive backing. I'll probably use that to cover my AC lines.

Thanks everyone!

 

Curious, do you guys think this stuff will work on my radiator hose since I'm going to be using a Lovefab Cast Sidewinder?

 

I am using a lovefab welded sidewinder. Here is my plan for the radiator hose [I'm going to do a full writeup with pictures when I do it]:

Stock hose with a piece of 1.25" OD stainless steel pipe in it where it crosses the manifold. I'm also going to wrap it in some heavier duty wrap than this stuff that I got from McMaster-Carr. The PN is 9379K93 and it's about $13 for a roll of it that is 12 feet long [it's 3" wide and 1/2" thick]. It's heat rating is -50*F to +2300*F ...I think it will work. I also bought a roll of aluminum tape to essentially make it one solid piece and tape over the cracks. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks Dax i might have to try that since the temp rating is higher. Do you know if that is ambient temp rating or actual touch temp rating?

 

Here is what the site says about it:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">High-Temperature Pipe and Tube Wrap

• Temperature Range: -50° to +2300° F
• Heat Flow Rate: 0.25 Btu/hr. x in./sq. ft. @ 75° F

This durable wrap not only withstands extreme heat, it also has excellent sound absorption and resists tears. Made of white alumina-silica based ceramic fibers with an aluminum jacket, it's unaffected by hydrocarbons and water and resists most chemicals. Use this UV-resistant material indoors and out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm sure the aluminum jacket rejects most of the radiation heat, but after feeling the silica insulation, I'm sure it will resist plenty of contact heat. Just to be safe I'm using that piece of stainless steel tube where it crosses the manifold. I think this combination of stuff will work quite well.

 

Keep us up on it because I'm gonna have this issue to deal with soon as well. Also, where do you plan to relocate your radiator overflow tank?

 

When i had my sidewinder I used a 88-91 crx overflow and put it right in front of the ps pulley.

 

Could someone please tell me what AC type my 94 accord has? I need to buy a recharge kit and cant find the helms. Its basically too damn hot too look even.

 

take it out you don't need it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Atheist &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for all of the good info guys. Im going to recharge my AC tomorrow.


Thanks for the bright idea captain. Do you really think that, given the text in my original post, I would concider taking it out if itd work? No. Becuase its hot, and 70lbs doesnt mean **** to me when Im hot. When Im hot, being cold is the only thing that matters. Don't be a bandwagoner, 'delete AC, delete ps' etc etc. Useless post. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Lose the AC. If you get hot, just buy a slurpee