dunkd

DaveF

its designed to constantly be bleeding the system.


http://www.crracing.com/custom...shtml



Modified by dturbocivic at 11:19 AM 6/27/2006

wade

iTrader: (1)

I would like to know as well.

dunkd

Hmm intresting... are there benefits to using this on high HP street cars? I have never seen it before on any other cars.

B18C1CYA

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its designed to constantly be bleeding the system.


http://www.crracing.com/custom...shtml

Modified by dturbocivic at 11:19 AM 6/27/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

kinda strange , cus when you put the coolant or water under pressure you rasie the boiling point ,

DaveF

everyone need to call C&R racing for a complete explanation.

what i got from it is..... you will run 10 degrees cooler & all the air will be removed from the system. this system constantly purges the air from the coolant. you all know how much of a headache a stinkin air bubble can be.

BB6-213

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">everyone need to call C&R racing for a complete explanation.

what i got from it is..... you will run 10 degrees cooler & all the air will be removed from the system. this system constantly purges the air from the coolant. you all know how much of a headache a stinkin air bubble can be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Wow, this sounds really awesome if it works! Bump for more input.

DaveF

why wouldnt it work.

The pressurized cooling system is used by IndyCars®, Formula One, NASCAR®, and Late Model; the system is adaptable to any water-cooled racecar

i dont think people of this satue would run it if it didnt work.

mrx

i want to know too... is there someone who can explain how this system works exactly and what the different tanks are used for?

DaveF

317.293.4100 phone

raene

Bigger question is, is it NHRA-legal?

DaveF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by raene &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bigger question is, is it NHRA-legal? </TD></TR></TABLE>

why wouldnt it be ?

Race Egr

interesting

rorik

It looks to me to be a simple relocation of the coolant pressure release system to the thermostat housing instead of being on the radiator itself. Probably no real benefit or drawback whatsoever, provided you have half a clue about how to bleed your factory system.
p.s.
to the rookies or those who don't think your factory sytem is pressurized, go out for a drive and then stand over the radiator as you open the cap. You can buy radiator caps in varying pressures. When the pressure is exceeded, it lets the water into the overflow (expansion) tank, when it cools off, it lets it back into the system...

raene

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> why wouldnt it be ? </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not explicity allowed, tracks are pretty leery of anything that could leave a mess. I'm not positive, just asking

mrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rorik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...rookies or those who don't think your factory sytem is pressurized, go out for a drive and then stand over the radiator as you open the cap. You can buy radiator caps in varying pressures. When the pressure is exceeded, it lets the water into the overflow (expansion) tank, when it cools off, it lets it back into the system...</TD></TR></TABLE>

thats exactly what i was thinking for... both systems are pressurized but if this system has an advantage - where is it and how it works?

itr1244

subscribed

hondaapi

I believe you can additionally put a little more pressure into your cooling setup.
The result of the additional pressure is that the water will start to "bubble" later.
So there are less bubbles in your block (or smaller ones) at the high temperatures. So more heat (for example from the cylinder walls) can be transfered into the water. Because the water has a better heat transfer coefficient than the air of the "bubbles".

Hope I could explain it good enough to understand. :-)

Kevin

PS: correct me if I am wrong

Throwdown

iTrader: (2)

so C&R sell that set-up or what?. seems like a great idea

mrx

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaapi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I believe you can additionally put a little more pressure into your cooling setup.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Problem is, you can do that also with a higher rated radiator cap... only benefit i see is that this seems to be a closed loop system when i understand it correct... otherwise there would be no real benefit.

BB6-213

Hey guys, I contacted C&R about the pricing for the setup since i couldnt find any dealers, but since i was scared away by the price I thought I would share.

Email.

Good day, sir. We have a couple of 3" pressure cans (Part Number CR-PC-3IN) in stock. The cost is $298.00 each. To complete the system you will need a Pressure Relief Valve (Part Number CR-PRV-ASSY) @ $225.00 each and the system pressurizing tool (Part Number 2000001501) @ $199.95.

So pretty much $725 for the system.....yep

rorik

..that's pretty expensive for something that doesn't do anything other than confuse the people who are looking at it!