experience tuning the f-max kit
06-06-2002, 02:44 AM
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Re: experience tuning the f-max kit (94goldjungsr)
I will be tuning mine soon, but haven't yet. A few people around here have though. Ask on clubsi as well, there are a few more people over there w/ it too. One's actually running 12psi daily on a stock motor. 
Heres some info I picked up a while ago and saved:
tuning the mf2 is easy. first...make sure all wiring is correct especially the grounds. turn on the key but dont start the car. look at the mf2 with the rpm numbers on top and loom coming out from right side. check the inject threshold light-middle of board twards the bottom- it should be off. turn the pot (25 turn pot) above the light counterclockwise until it comes on then back it down until it just turns off. turn it clockwise if its already on until it just turns off. this will set the mf2 to only inject during boost. start car and make sure rpm lights match tach to at least 5k rpms.this will make sure the mf2 is reading the right rpm signal. make sure it is not programmed to water inject mode- theres a jumper on the board twards left center for this...make sure its jumpered to the F mark. the rest of tuning requires a wideband o2 but any o2 gauge with a egt gauge will get u in the ballpark but it will not by any means be a home run. inject gain will determine how much fuel is injected per pound of boost (clockwise for more and its a 25 turn pot)- this setting will effectively raise or lower the duty cycle of the injectors or the electronic equivalet of changing the disks in a vortech rising rate regulator. the ***** on top should be set to match the volumetric efficiency of your engine- again clockwise for more fuel but this is only a rpm based adjustment to the injector gain setting. lastly watch the green inject light...bottom right corner- this will come on when it is actually energizing the injectors and if they are hooked up right. no light means injectors arent hooked up right or its operating on a part of fuel map that doesnt need fuel as programmed.
Heres some info I picked up a while ago and saved:
tuning the mf2 is easy. first...make sure all wiring is correct especially the grounds. turn on the key but dont start the car. look at the mf2 with the rpm numbers on top and loom coming out from right side. check the inject threshold light-middle of board twards the bottom- it should be off. turn the pot (25 turn pot) above the light counterclockwise until it comes on then back it down until it just turns off. turn it clockwise if its already on until it just turns off. this will set the mf2 to only inject during boost. start car and make sure rpm lights match tach to at least 5k rpms.this will make sure the mf2 is reading the right rpm signal. make sure it is not programmed to water inject mode- theres a jumper on the board twards left center for this...make sure its jumpered to the F mark. the rest of tuning requires a wideband o2 but any o2 gauge with a egt gauge will get u in the ballpark but it will not by any means be a home run. inject gain will determine how much fuel is injected per pound of boost (clockwise for more and its a 25 turn pot)- this setting will effectively raise or lower the duty cycle of the injectors or the electronic equivalet of changing the disks in a vortech rising rate regulator. the ***** on top should be set to match the volumetric efficiency of your engine- again clockwise for more fuel but this is only a rpm based adjustment to the injector gain setting. lastly watch the green inject light...bottom right corner- this will come on when it is actually energizing the injectors and if they are hooked up right. no light means injectors arent hooked up right or its operating on a part of fuel map that doesnt need fuel as programmed.
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