SiRCiviC94

It's a jdm b16a the exhaust valves all look a bit different maybe someone can tell the story on them from the pics

OneBadTurboCRV

Since no description or background was given to even remotely help you...

Picture #1 - Leaking valve stem seal.
Picture #2 - Leaking valve stem seal and potentially blown head gasket.
Picture #3 - Leaking valve stem seals and potentially cross blown head gasket.
Picture #4 - Normal higher mileage engine or possibly rich conditions.

Schister66

I agree...and for being given no background info, you sure deduced that quickly

Oil - valve stem seals
White crust on valves - burnt coolant
Soot - rich/high mileage

SiRCiviC94

this car made 235whp and i up'd a couple # at the track. its got 100,000miles probably.

now that we know whats up what should I do? the motor produces 175-175-175-175 compression, runs great boosts fine.

Should I do something and repair this? (pull head and machine shop fix it) how much $?
possibly swap the engine?
buy a head get it rebuilt and use it?


I was kind of hoping to go tune and it would be fine. but now I see this and dont know. could it be repaired without the head coming off or that is surely coolant and headgasket should be replaced?

i appretaite the help

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Pull the head. Get a valve job and resurface, new head gasket and be done. No use trying to avoid preventive maintenance

SiRCiviC94

ok, any idea on a cost? the valves can be fully adjusted with the head off? as well. do the valve springs need to come out to do this job?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Adjusted meaning valve lash? Or valve seats? The seats don't get adjusted.
A head service shoudlnt be more than 150 depending on shop

OneBadTurboCRV

Less than $200 but call your local machine shop obviously. It differs around the country. The valves can't easily be adjusted with the head off as it requires the camshafts installed. The valve springs must come off the replace the stem seals as they are obviously "inside/under" the spring...

SiRCiviC94

ok good info. im always in some mild delima, so the cheapest option is to get the head pulled off, cleaned/ resurfaced, and new valve stem seals? Fk, ill need a list. ill probably add supertech springs at the same time but because of budget I only have the B16a cams to go back in and a new 400+whp turbo.

how bad is this though?? could I run it as is and be ok? id almost rather blow it and start fresh, possibly go with a nippon/eagle rod block/ supertech head combo on the side...thatd be wicked as hell! or just swap my stock gsr long block another option

thought id mention i hardly top this engine up it burns what a honda guy would say NO oil. - compression was ok and 175 even (it shoots up a little with oil added) the car pulls hard all the way to the top of 5th. what to do ?! I shouldnt retune with those leaking

93h2beg

does it consume coolant?
does it burn oil on startup? (smoke only when it starts)
do you have any drivability complaints?


if the answer is NO to ALL of these run it till she blows.
If there is a single yes in here then rebuild it.

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

If it were me I would just get the head rebuilt, I don't like chancing my transportation

SiRCiviC94

It runs and drives like a brand new Honda. The smoke ill tell you guys in a week or two because I am no longer using the eBay turbo I will have a custom turbo installed brand new. The old turbo would smoke on start. No coolant loss, clean oil, no noticeable oil burning (200ml max)

The new turbo requires me to re tune the car but if this issue is here I'm affraid ill be back tuning once I rebuild the head fresh.

So it's either run till she's done, or pull the head, freshen it up for 300bux or so, use my arp studs new head gasket hope the rings hold and shoot for 3-350hp

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

That's a negative sir, brand new Hondas don't have leaky valve seals. I'm just saying...

Running until she blows could result in more problems or could create an accident if your driving and you lose control of your car. The chances of an car accident is minimal but it could happen. It seems that you know what the problem is so you can either fix or install this other motor you have

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

So I'm curious as to why you needed to know what was going on since you seem less than inclined to actually fix the issues.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

Why cant you just pretend its blown now and start fresh now?

OneBadTurboCRV

You should know the answer to this better than most... he may actually have "real" problems afterwards judging by the questions being asked. Like the saying goes - "Fix it until it is broke."

93h2beg

with an attitude like "run it till it blows" it does not matter what is said. he was looking for an answer that made him feel all warm.... know he knows that his condition is PROBABLY minor so why spend money?

lets encourage him to blow it apart and then have absolutely nothing to work with, no parts to sell to help fund his build, a nasty mess to clean up when something lets go and exits the block.

Good luck post pics of whatever occurs please- as much as we hate to see carnage we do wanna see it.

SiRCiviC94

It's a deciding factor. I'm pretty OCD on the best it can be.

And I don't want to risk my new turbo.

Time is passing quick its either pull the head n refresh, re tune or run as is, or fund a full blown new built motor! I appretiate the diagnostics and any more opinions on what to do.

h2.4

time is wasting with you waiting for someone here to diagnose your engine from valve stem pics. Do more testing and less typing. Leakdown your engine to get an idea on the headgasket theory, then pull the head and get it surfaced and valve job, replace seals. If you don't have "time" to do that. I vote run till it blows and borrow your moms car till she gives it to you.

SiRCiviC94

I own a few cars moms car isn't needed. But I keep a set to it also.

Decision isn't made yet... But I feel good about getting a new head prepped to bolt on as soon as the leaky head comes off. The car is 200 miles away I don't always have opportunity to work on it! But then the thought comes well the head is fixed but the block needs rings.

****! n I'm way to lazy to swap n pull motors. So it's run as is or get a fresh head on there!

SiRCiviC94

I've looked into doing a leak down test on this car before making decisions or trying to re seat what's there. What should I expect out of this thing? If it passes leak down I should leave it? Lol

justYncredible

iTrader: (1)

What is there not to understand here? If you see the leak that's where the problem is. If there is a $1 on the table there is a $1 on the table

SiRCiviC94

Head is coming off. What parts will I neeed or would you reccomend?

Plan:

Head repaired with Honda seals, new springs by supertech or re use the intake and grab dual for the xhaust.

Block.. Remains as it is. Would this repair bring the compression back up ?

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Dont forget new guides and a valve job. And yes the valves will seal better bringing up your compression numbers.

SiRCiviC94

Guys have you heard of bad exhaust seals on the turbo mimicking leaky valve seals and causing this build up? Again the car starts runs an drives / blasts the same compression numbers for the last 6 years. If that's possible onto my white valve issue.

Notice there is way less soot in that cyl it's like that injector is letting it run hot or it needs tuned differently.

Is there a way to check the head gasket and valve seals cheap? I don't have a leak down tester but if that will show me that its still good I'd get one