len

Ok.

This is a totally off-wall-question here.

What is it's function besides take up space and add a couple lbs to your car? My car is equipped with it and I need to make as much room as possible to mount a few items, like a catch can.

Anyhow, this is what I know about it after reading the Helm's Manual. The EVAP Canister controls the amount of fuel vapors that is released into the atmosphere by routing it into the canister and then finally into the intake stream. Basically, it's an emission control device.

Here's the deal. I'm going to be running the AEM EMS for engine management with a turbo, and test pipe for crying out loud. So what's the whole point of having emission control devices on the car?

From what I gathered, the AEM does not care for any check engine lights nor goes into limp mode because there is a malfunction in the emission system.

So the bottom line question is: Can I yank it?

Thanks in advance,

Len

PS. I don't live in California.

len

Someone's gotta know. Art, Stan? Steve? anyone?

Tinker219

Im not running it, nor anything else like Fast Idle valve, and I have EMS. Ill let you know on Wednesday how it runs, because I havent tried starting it yet
Heres a pic of my Engine bay:

ninesecrx

You basicly answered your own post. Its just a non needed smog item that can be removed. Keep it though as you might need to to pass smog when your up for that.

MotorMatrix.com

I removed mine and plugged it with a freeze plug.

Flamenco-T

Just remove it Len...it won't matter once you have the EMS on, even if you still on stock ecu, taking it out won't get you on limp mode, it's one of the one way sensor, so it won;t send any thing to the ECU

stan

Arturbo

I took mine out and pluged the line going back to the fuel tank with a vaccum plug.

bruthaboost

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took mine out and pluged the line going back to the fuel tank with a vaccum plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

len

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MotorMatrix.com &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I removed mine and plugged it with a freeze plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now are you talking about the Breather Chamber (Black Box) behind the block or the EVAP canister. I mean while we're there, can I just remove my black box too and get rid of the PCV System?

Flamenco-T

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Now are you talking about the Breather Chamber (Black Box) behind the block or the EVAP canister. I mean while we're there, can I just remove my black box too and get rid of the PCV System?</TD></TR></TABLE>

you can, just get a breather catch can and run both of your PCV system from both holes on the back of the block..

they all do the same thing, releasing positive crankcase pressure inside the motor

stan

93LSivic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Arturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I took mine out and pluged the line going back to the fuel tank with a vaccum plug.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im about ready to toss the evap can too. I was talking with racerxadam who doesnt run his and he capped the line going back to the tank. He says he gets a lot of positive pressure in the gas tank, especially on hotter days. Basically when he gas's up and removes the gas cap he gets a big woosh of air.

Im not sure if this would worry me or not....well, actually it kinda does. Wouldnt you want that line going back to the tank vented and not capped?? Im not liking the idea that my gas tank has positive pressure in it.

This One

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you can, just get a breather catch can and run both of your PCV system from both holes on the back of the block..

</TD></TR></TABLE>

explain in a little more detail if you can.... which lines need to go where when you take the box off...?

MotorMatrix.com

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Now are you talking about the Breather Chamber (Black Box) behind the block or the EVAP canister. I mean while we're there, can I just remove my black box too and get rid of the PCV System?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oops, I was referring to the charcoal canister on the back of the block.

boostin b16

if you guys are still talking about the canister on fire wall in the lower left corner, i took out mine and used the line to run my fuel line to the back of the car and the aromotive fuel pump. its a cool idea and saves you a lot of money on steel braided lines for an external fuel pump. im cheap!

Takeoff

Can someone post pics of their setup. I am interested in getting rid of this evap canister.

EE_Chris

There exists a two-way valve, totally mechanical, that allows the gas tank to vent when the pressure exceeds ~.6inHg. I would think this valve would take care of your needs as far as 'capping' off the line and venting it at the same time.

AVATAR

I'm in a driveability class right now and I've been thinking about this alot lately also so I asked him. He said "well basically you're violating every emission standard known to man" blah blah blah blah, I asked if you could just plug it and he said it would be a good idea at all. I'll ask tomorrow why cuz I forgot what he said

Takeoff

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flamenco-T &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just remove it Len...it won't matter once you have the EMS on, even if you still on stock ecu, taking it out won't get you on limp mode, it's one of the one way sensor, so it won;t send any thing to the ECU

stan
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disconnected the connector on top of the evap canister and my CEL came on after two days. The code I got was 90 which was the evap code. I want to take it off it is unnecessary but also don't want the CEL. What is everyone doing with the canister and all the sensors related to it. It connect in like three spots.

hpfsi

You might as well remove the charcoal canister; the only reason I left it on since I'm running the EMS is because of the purge function for positive pressure in the fuel tank. There is a parameter you can monitor with the EMS that displays fuel tank pressure fyi. I have seen track only cars with straight breathers coming off the fuel cell, but what I'll probably end up putting together is a small one way purge valve/vent that functions like a bov for the fuel tank essentially. Seems like a reasonable solution without having a permanently vented tank (and I honestly don't know if this would be a bad thing anyways).

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

OT: I see alot of the guys here are using EMS. Does anyone have a tuned map for a stock GSR I can steal? And dont tell me to use the basemap! Thx

rick_spiff

I've got an '88 Accord LX (quit laughing! ) and it has that stupid EVAP canister on the firewall too. However, if I'm low on gas (like 1/4 tank or less), I ALWAYS get a whoosh of air blowing out when I take the cap off. When it's hot I get it really bad, and it has to be like 20 degrees F or cooler for it to not vent like this. I think the fscking thing is broken anyway.

Since I'm doing an EFI conversion and an engine swap at the same time, I'm thinking of retaining the new EVAP canister. There's a single solenoid that hooks up to it. Will disconnecting that solenoid throw a code in the stock ecu?

AVATAR

I asked my instructor and he said you could plug it just find some way to vent fuel tank pressures like a vent cap or something. Do they make these . . .

hybridsol

Did anybody actually say what it's for?

EVAP System 101

What it does: Recover gas vapors from the fuel tank

How it works: Since, origianlly, our engines are N/A, they operate under vacuum all the time. The canister is open to the gas tank (top). At the command of the ECU, the purge valve opens, and fuel/vapors are drawn through the canister into the IM.

Why you threw a code: On the newer OBDII cars, ther are more controls, including a gas tank pressure sensor, that will throw a code if the tank pressure is too high for an extended time.

What happens when you boost: The IM pressure gets bled into the gas tank, if the purge valve is open. If this scares you, add a check valve on the vent line. Most emissions test pressureize the tank/fuel system to check for leaks to 5psi (?) or so, and I don't think anyone has blown a tank, yet.

The idea of this system is to keep gas vapors (which as we all know are very unhealthy) contained in the fuel system.

Class over.

Quick 200k Mile Motor

According to helms, the canister is a temporary storage for fuel vapor from your tank. The vapor purges out of the canister into the intake. The purging is controlled by the diaphragm valve in the cansister, and by the the cut-off solenoid valve (uses a vaccum line coming from the plenum).
Since, there is a vaccum line going to it would boost hurt it?

Im beginning to think it wouldn't matter because before helms explained the above, they showed a diagram:
Coolant temperature above 73 degC (163 degF) =
Purge cut-off solenoid valve OFF after 5 seconds starting engine

So, it only works during warm-up? Could this explain why some pop the cap off the solenoid?... they boosted before warm-up?