Here's the thing, can a stock gearset be pushed to work in a 9 second Honda? Yes, now what's the longevity of those gears? They differ based on previous wear. Some people who run at those power levels get 50 passes, some get 2 passes.

Now if I made 700whp and was on a stock gear set could you make it last a long time? Sure, depending on what kind of driving you do with the car. If you just drive it around and never push it hard I am sure it will last a long time. Now, add some slicks and start drag racing the car hard every week and see how long it lasts.

All I am saying is that sure it's possible to make 300 on a stock block but once you get there you want more. So if the guy was planning on taking a bunch of stuff apart anyway, why not just spend a little money getting the block taken care of. That way if he hits 300 and wants more, he can have more with piece of mind.

 

He'd be fine to 350-400 on cast pistons and forged rods and stock sleeves, if he wasn't abusive with it. And it would be more dailyable.

Biggest thing of full forged/sleeved vs what I said is about $12-1400 more.

 

My goals are to build a fun street car with the occasional Friday night quarter mile racing at the strip. I have heard and am aware that once you make a certain horse power you will always want more. Being able to make that number with stock internals definitely makes me happy as it wont lighten my wallet. However having forged rods and pistons will have the engine set up and ready to handle more power if the need/want it there down the road. I'm listening to all the info here and appreciate it. I don't take short cuts so if it seems I'm trying to do that, I'm not. I've got a lot of reading to do prior to installing the kit. So again thanks for your patience with my noob experience.

 

This is all expensive, and nickle and diming cast pistons on forged rods IS a short cut. Get both done properly and be done with it.

 

I've been looking into rods and pistons already so its just a matter of figuring out what will be best bang for the buck. Also compiling a list of everything else from head studs to gaskets etc. The list gets bigger as I read more threads here.

 

Eagle Rod / Skunk2 Rod w/ Wiseco piston - DONE

headstuds-to-gaskets is pretty common on all the builds.

Its the ignition and other extras that are more preferential, so make sure you know the difference.

 

Forged pistons = you should be sleeving the block.

Forged rods, any H beams, will be great. Manley, Scat, are a couple more.

 

Sleeving the block just for forged pistons? Even I would call that a bit on the overkill side.

Since about 1997 I've had quite a few forged/piston rod combination on stock honda and Mazda sleeves for over 450whp without issue, and that's even in HPDE events.

I'm a big fan of sleeving, believe me (same sleeved GE block now for 12 years) but I guess I don't see it in this case. Ah well, that's why we all have options

 

Just got off the phone with my local engine shop. I will bring them my engine so they can take a look and make sure everything is good and verify all my specs so I can ensure I get the right parts.

As for ignition that's unknown territory as of now, ill continue reading.

 

For the power you want the OEM distributor will be fine. Just run a good set of wires and plugs.

If you want more juice at a low cost then look into an Accel OEM replacement coil. If you want a stronger distributor ignition then get the send it racing ICM delete, a crane external coil, and some sort of ignition box. There's a huge thread in FI somewhere on the topic.

 

If you have it in your budget, then build it. Its worth the peace of mind IMO. Having said that, my old GSR (long ago) lasted for almost 4 years of daily abuse at ~300whp. The highest was 315whp/216wtq and i never had any issues with it. I eventually upped my power goal (~400whp) and built the engine...but for those 4ish years, it was a 100% stock GSR longblock. With proper maintenance and good tuning, there's no reason it shouldnt last.

 

Alright so after reading and reading some more and talking to people, ive decided to leave the engine stock and slap the turbo on and take it to the tuners.

Having said that, with having some money in my pocket from my supercharger sale, where should I put the money? Ill need some for new gaskets and head studs, im already running a demon standalone OBD1, my fuel pump is upgraded for the SC but the injectors are gone with the sale of it so new ones are being sourced.

Is there anything else anyone suggests that I might need that is necessary for building to hit the numbers im looking for?

 

Other areas of the car...

Power is pointless if you can't stop and at triple digit speeds you'll find brake fade on OEM equipment real quick.

Also you'll need a decent suspension setup and a really good set of tires to minimize traction issues.

 

Sorry should have mentioned everything the car has.
97 civic EJ8
4 wheel disc conversion with AEM big brake kit and kvr 4 piston calipers and SS lines
Tein flex A coilovers.
Fidanza 8lb flywheel
Bully stage2 clutch

The car itself aside from the engine is upgraded, thus im looking into engine mods to support a turbo set up.

 

Transmission? LSD?

Motor mounts?

Electronic boost control (solenoid)?

Catch can?

Gauges (Oil Temp, Wideband o2, Oil Pressure)?

That's 60 seconds of thought

 

Stock Transmission is fine, just needs a clutch to support the torque.

I would advise using at least some poly inserts for the engine torque mounts. I ran stock mounts and inserts on my stock LS making 300/300 and it worked out great and not a lot of vibration over stock.

Electronic boost control is nice, but for 300whp not neccesary.

Gauges are a definite in my opinion. At least oil pressure, and I like widebands because they help diagnose alot of potential issues.

 

Extra cash, add some minty freshness, doesn't have to be 100% required. Stock trans is 'fine', but an LSD is that much better.

Electronic boost control can keep your MPGs up. Providing you have a switch for high/low maps.

 

That's definitely a first I've heard someone use MPG as a premise to advocate for someone as reason to use electronic boost controller. I'm sure it can be supported based upon type and interface... But still..interesting premise

 

From exp, I get much higher MPG at 5psi vs 10psi. Not driving hard, maybe a little spirited at times.

 

I guess lol. MPG is 90% driving habits

 

Exactly.. Like I say, "psi" stiff is all in the eye of the size turbocharger for the application.

I have 19psi on my other car and get 26mpg...should I have used a boost controller? :-)

 

Hey idc what you guys say! Lol

Passin people at light throttle does not need 10+psi to do. Doesn't matter how hard you back off the throttle, if you want to accelerate, you'll be pusing psi harder than needed. Driving habits only extend so far.

This is the literal relationship between CFM and PSI, fo sho?

 

No I get it. Not a terrible idea. But usually I pass people in overdrive and it never sees more than a few lbs of boost say in 5th at 70-80 mph

 

What about cams? any input whether to go aftermarket or try and find some type r cams?

 

<p>Type R works. &nbsp;So do Crower 403's. &nbsp;I'd bet even just GSR cams would be fine for your current goals.</p>