i was running down the highway and my engine just shut down. rolled to a stop and now it wont start. it will let out a huge backfire trying to start it. luckily i was only a mile from my house.

its getting fuel, spark, compression is good in all cylinders, cam timing and valve lash is dead on, and all the grounds are good. it seems like something electrical, but what. my s300 p28 take a ****? i dont know i hope not. what about my gm 3 bar map sensor? im lost right now but its gotta be a electrical/wiring issue.

 

Check engine light come on?

Maybe a coil or main relay issue.

 

no cel..

my gm 3bar has 5 volts in and out. but can it still be bad?

main relay is good. its getting fuel at the rail.

i have a clear dist. cap and you can see it sparking on all four when cranking it over so its not the coil.

but it lets out a huge backfire out the downpipe when trying to start it. so doesnt that usually mean a ignition problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no cel..

my gm 3bar has 5 volts in and out. but can it still be bad?

main relay is good. its getting fuel at the rail.

i have a clear dist. cap and you can see it sparking on all four when cranking it over so its not the coil.

but it lets out a huge backfire out the downpipe when trying to start it. so doesnt that usually mean a ignition problem?</TD></TR></TABLE>
looks like you just found your problem. With the key on and engine off the map sensor should not be reading 5volts at the signal wire. It is dumping in fuel.

 

my bad i just checked it again..

its got 5volt going in and the singal is showing 1.6 volts with key on like a 3bar should and i also hooked up a hand vacuum pump to it and the voltage dropped as i applied vacuum so i think its good.

i get no check engine lights and the hondata s300 in the ecu isnt throwing any error codes or red light.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i have a clear dist. cap and you can see it sparking on all four when cranking it over so its not the coil.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The car can still get some spark with a bad coil, just not enough to do anything. I would swap out the dizzy for a known good one and go from there.

 

Usually a backfire from exhaust or intake is a timing issue, wheter it is a mechanical timing issue or ignition timing issue. and you said the cams are dead on so i'd be lookin at the dist.

 

yup im suspecting its my dizzy that took a crap. one of the sensors inside. had this happen before on hondas, dizzy would spark fine but wouldnt start.

 

well i checked the crank position, TDC, and CYP sensors in the dizzy with a ohmeter per the manual and they all tested good. can they still be bad? should i throw a different dizzy on anyways?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i checked the crank position, TDC, and CYP sensors in the dizzy with a ohmeter per the manual and they all tested good. can they still be bad? should i throw a different dizzy on anyways?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Did you replace the coil?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The car can still get some spark with a bad coil, just not enough to do anything. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

X2 happened to me before

 

my car did this once, turns sout that the woodruff key on the camgear broke off, but you couldnt see it because it was behind the washer on the camgear bolt.

thats more than likely not the case for you. see if u can borrow a dizzy from a friend.

 

found the problem.. i got a accel cap and rotor about a month ago. i took the cap off and the rotor was in pieces. it exploded. how and why i dont know. wtf.

well new rotor and im good, thank god.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">found the problem.. i got a accel cap and rotor about a month ago. i took the cap off and the rotor was in pieces. it exploded. how and why i dont know. wtf.

well new rotor and im good, thank god.</TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, always stupid dizzy problems. I have blown a piece of a rotor out of the cap before.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike93eh2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">found the problem.. i got a accel cap and rotor about a month ago. i took the cap off and the rotor was in pieces. it exploded. how and why i dont know. wtf.

well new rotor and im good, thank god.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you must rev mad tite jdm high yo. lol. you think OE would stand up better?

out of curiosity how high are you revving and would you think that really matters? or if it was just defective?

 

this sounds like a case of a bad coil for surel. i have blown 4 coils all with the same symptoms as you. swap the coils or dizzy and see what happens

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mr HYDE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this sounds like a case of a bad coil for surel. i have blown 4 coils all with the same symptoms as you. swap the coils or dizzy and see what happens</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL reading ownz you pal. its already fixed.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by agrn93ls &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

you must rev mad tite jdm high yo. lol. you think OE would stand up better?

out of curiosity how high are you revving and would you think that really matters? or if it was just defective?</TD></TR></TABLE>

oem is always better quality.

im only reving to 8500. it wasnt a case of rpms it was a case of the thing getting to hot and it was cheap plastic.