wel for the past 2 weeks my car started to keep on dying at almost every stop, but it would start right back up when i start it. it's getting a little annoying now cause people would look at me weird at every stop light cause they hear my engine cranking starting. I cant seem to figure out why it does this so is why im here to ask for opinions and help. it has no check engine lights watsoever.

set-up is

LSVTEC
stock head and block
t3/t4 garrett .60/.63 turbo
walbro 255
750cc injectors

it was tuned about 1 month ago on crome and made about 300whp on 9psi
ran good after tuned but did have a little idle issue but dint die at stop light untill 2 weeks ago.

anybody can tell me how to fix this problem lmk. thanks

 

Does the car die when you push in the clutch when coming to a stop? Will it still run if you get it some throttle?

Since you said it did have an idle issue before i would lean towards this being a vacuum leak. Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge in the car?

 

Check idle control motor isnt stuck, does it have aftermarket throttlebody? Lightweight flywheel? give more details on the setup. What is it tuned on?

 

Turn up the idle screw and also clean out ur IACV. Also have the tuner increase the IACV duty cycle. Crome usually has idle issues but a little tweaking will get it running good.

 

i had this exact problem after getting tuned...all i had to do was turn up the IAC counts in my hondata 2 clicks and now she's like a pro.

 

Get the car running at idle, unplug the iacv. if the car stalls you need to adjust the idle screw on the throttlebody, if it doesnt then adjust the iacv control in the engine management

 

car dies at complete stop in nuetral or with the clutch held in at stops.
I do have a boost gauge but i dont know how to tell if its leaking by looking at the gauge.

 

no, im running a stock B16/LS throttle body, stock oem flywheel.

set-up
stock b16 head
99si intake manifold
stock tb
gsr cams
stock springs/retainer
ARP head studs
stock ls bottom end
6 puck clutch
stock pp
stock flywheel

custom ramhorn manifold
garrett 57 trim
tial 38 gate
3in dp
750cc injectors
walbro 255
fmic
ebay greddy replica bov

tuned on crome

 

yeah i was thinkning it might have something to do with the tune, because when it was all motor it didnt die at stops. everything is the same i just added the turbo stuff to it and tuned.

 

My car use to die at stops or either barely idle - come to find out it was the brake master cyl. althought the brakes worked fine - dunno if that might be the case for you...

 

Does your boost gauge read vacuum as well? (in./hg)

 

It's the tune. The injectors are shutting off. It can easily be tuned out with a good street tune. In the LOW RPM, HIGH VACUUM columns, below your already tuned idle columns, add fuel until the car stops shutting off. Fixes it everytime.

 

i think so. its the same one like this one http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ch&um=1&itbs=1

when idle the point stays right between the 10 and 15 i think or between the 15 and 20.

 

i will ask my tuner to see if he knows that. cause right after the tune the car was idling pretty bad, i mean it idles good for a bit and then bad for a bit.

 

What does your IAT and ECT properties look like? That would cause the same effect you're stating. A good street tune is what you need. Leave everything above 0 vacuum alone (since that's been tuned on a dyno) and get everything below street tuned. Have the tuner adjust your IAT properties according to specific temperatures at Idle.