Engine Builders and Tuners: Question concerning testing new engine
Alright, my dad has been rebuilding motors forever and since I am going to school 2005 fall for engine building, my dad thought it would be a great idea to rebuild my own engine. I am sending it out to get hot tanked and get the 81.5mm bore but besides that, the rest is upto me under the watchful eye of my father.
I am going to be adding a nice custom turbo setup and some eagle rods/cp pistons to my lsvtec build also. I was curious, after I do the complete bottom end build, put the custom turbo setup on, and get it ready to take it out to get NepTuned, how do I know everythings going to be 100% working? I am not breaking the motor in on a basemap, I dont feel comfortable with that idea, and I am driving 7 hours each way to get my car tuned and that would be a big way to throw her on the dyno, the tuner starts an a/f ration and she doesnt turn over or something else happens.
Basically what can I do to make sure I dont run into any problems from an engine with 0 miles on it starting and working correctly. and yes I am gonna triple check everything.
I am going to be adding a nice custom turbo setup and some eagle rods/cp pistons to my lsvtec build also. I was curious, after I do the complete bottom end build, put the custom turbo setup on, and get it ready to take it out to get NepTuned, how do I know everythings going to be 100% working? I am not breaking the motor in on a basemap, I dont feel comfortable with that idea, and I am driving 7 hours each way to get my car tuned and that would be a big way to throw her on the dyno, the tuner starts an a/f ration and she doesnt turn over or something else happens.
Basically what can I do to make sure I dont run into any problems from an engine with 0 miles on it starting and working correctly. and yes I am gonna triple check everything.
You can start it with the stock ecu to make sure you have oil pressure and no leaks.I assume your going to tow it to the tuner and back.
Glenn
Glenn
get a wide band in there so u know what your a/f is.
use a stock ecu and drive it there without boosting.
or if the injectors are in already make a base map and take it straight to the shop. there is plenty of info on the neptune/uberdata/crome systems to make a decent map to get you there
use a stock ecu and drive it there without boosting.
or if the injectors are in already make a base map and take it straight to the shop. there is plenty of info on the neptune/uberdata/crome systems to make a decent map to get you there
If you start it on a stock ecu, be sure you are using stock or close to stock injectors. You don't want to run your new motor in an extra fat condition at idle.
As long as you don't put a load on the motor (driving it), you can idle it and even rev it up without hurting the engine in a lean condition. It only gets hot when you make it work.
As long as you don't put a load on the motor (driving it), you can idle it and even rev it up without hurting the engine in a lean condition. It only gets hot when you make it work.
so if i keep the 750cc's out of her, and start her up to only idle it with the stock injectors, i'll be alright? I was told that since im changing compression I couldn't do that (going to 9.0:1). But I trust your opinion earl. Just wanna make sure I heard ya clearly. I am thick headed alot. lol
you can even rev it up if you like. changing the compression ratio does not really effect anything until you put a load on it by driving or putting it on the dyno.
I would rather see it idle on tuned stock injectors than 750 untuned injectors
I would rather see it idle on tuned stock injectors than 750 untuned injectors
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