mmeadows

My goal is to design a vehicle that I can drive on a consistent basis and take to the track. I not only have an interest in drag racing but more importantly I want to have a car that can handle time attack/road courses as well. I would like to have the car run consistent 11 second passes and also be on pump gas. I want to race it at the track in the same form that I drive it on the street, full interior minus the rear seats. This is not my first project car. I have owned an all motor EG hatch and a mild turbo B16 EG hatch that I did all of the work on myself. I chose the DC2 Integra because it is a common car used for time attack and I love the appearance of ITR's. I will list out the parts I have already obtained through various methods and list what parts I am considering in using to attain the above stated goals. Your feedback would be greatly appreciated on any of the listed items, especially with regards to brand preference.

Block

I have two blocks in the garage, a B18B and a B20z. I have opted to build the B18B as I believe the B20Z has the best chance to be sold to gain more money.

Golden Eagle Sleeves with turbo o-ring

I am debating on the final bore size. I truly want a 2.0L block but I am also balancing the reality that something could go wrong with the initial build and force me to have to bore it again. I have read several horror stories on H-T about this and am shying away from the 84mm bore.

ACL Race Bearings

Manley H Beam Rods with ARP bolts. I have read that these are good to about 700HP. Factoring in a high HP loss of 20%, that puts 560 to the front wheels. I do not think I will need that much to attain my goals. Ideally I would like to hit about 500WHP on higher boost just so there is a bit of a safety net for the rods as they are the weak point in the build.

CP 9.7/1 Pistons. I would like to have good response when off boost so that is why I have opted for this CR. My only other concern is how durable are the rings, wrist pins, and what not that are provided with these pistons? I believe I read on Evans Tuning that the supplied rings and wrist pins will be fine.

Stock LS Crank. Speed Factory will have this inspected at the machine shop before sending it to GE. I have a question based on the rev potential of this crank. Should I have the entire rotating assembly balanced with the new rods and pistons if I plan to rev past 8,000 RPM's?

P72 oil pan that is bunged for a turbo line. I have this from an old project. Should I consider looking into buying a Moroso 5qt sumped oil pan or is it a waste of money?

OEM ITR Oil Pick Up

Endyn Modified ITR Oil Pump. Is this a waste of money? I am very fond of Endyn's engineering ability and I looked at this as in investment in the longevity of the motor.

OEM LS Crank Pulley

OEM ITR timing belt and tensioner. Should I consider getting a kevlar reinforced timing belt?

ARP Head Studs

GE VTEC Conversion Kit

Head

Stock Port B16A Head. I have this just lying around from a previous project. Should I get the head ported and polished? I know I can make my HP goals without it but I am wondering how much more efficient it would make my setup? I have read the expected WHP gains from a race ported/polished head but my thoughts are it is over kill since I do not want to make 600WHP plus. I recently read on Evans Tuning that the only thing needed is a 5 angle valve job. That should net about 70-80% of the flow from a traditional port/polish head job.

Supertech Black Nitride Dished Valves

Supertech bronze valve guides, dual valve springs, and titanium retainers

OEM valve seals

Skunk 2 cam gears

Cams. Now for the great debate. I have done endless hours of research and am leaning towards an OEM cam and an after market cam. Speed Factory recommended the Blox Type B cams but I have read a few horror stories about that brand coming apart in higher horse power applications. I have been leaning toward ITR cams. I have also been debating on some cams from Skunk 2, either the Tuner 2 or the Pro 1. I have heard mixed feelings about the Pro 1's for street use as looking at their specifications I am aware of the strain on the valvetrain. Any input?

Re-manufactured distributor, alternator, and starter

NGK BKR7 spark plugs

NGK wires

Edelbrock Victor X Intake Manifold. I already have this sitting around. The question arises if I should acquire an aftermarket throttle body or should I just use the LS TB? I have seen dyno graphs that support after market purchases but really only pertain to very high output B series setups.

FUEL and ENGINE MANAGEMENT

Golden Eagle Fuel Rail

Precision Turbo 880cc injectors. What is your input on peak and hold versus saturated with regard to reliability? I am also aware that I may not have enough injector to hit 500WHP with these. Evans Tuning put these size injectors at 475 to 525 WHP depending on fuel pressure.

Should I run larger fuel lines?

Walbro 255LPH fuel pump. Should I run another unit? How long are these pumps expected to last?

Blox FMU. I have this sitting around but am weary of the brand. I need recommendations on a reliable FPR.

I have a chipped ECU sitting around that is supposed to have EC Tune on it. I known Speed Factory is capable of tuning on almost any software but I have been leaning toward Hondata S300 with the boost solenoid. I also believe I can find a boost solenoid compatible with EC Tune. Is there any real difference between these two programs?

I am debating on upgrading the OEM ignition system to one from MSD. I have read several instances where the stock ignition has crapped out around 500WHP. What are your thoughts?

TRANSMISSION

OEM GSR Transmission with factory LSD

I will have this rebuilt at Speed Factory with OEM Bearings.

I would like input on the brand of carbon treated syncros to use.

I have a used ACT Clutch and Flywheel that I will have inspected before I use them. I can at least have the flywheel resurfaced and used in the build. If the clutch will not handle around 350 FT/LBS of torque then I will most likely go with a Competition clutch.

Is the factory LSD going to withstand this kind of power? I really like M Factory and will more than likely purchase their unit if not.

What are your thought of cryo treating the gears? Any idea on $ amount to have all of the gears treated? I have not read much on this and am curious if its worth the $?

OEM axles. I have read time and time again that stronger axles break all the time as well. I hear Auto Zone has a lifetime warranty on the OEM re-manufactured axles

SUSPENSION

The most important part. Also a heavily debated topic on H-T. I still have not found the right setup either.

I am leaning toward PIC Select coilovers with custom spring rates. I would love some input on spring rates, whether or not to bias in the front or rear. What recommendations for the F/R?

Energy Suspension Master Bushing Kit

Skunk 2 F/R Strut Tower Braces

ITR F/R sway bars

I am also debating on getting F/R camber kits. I just read something about how they are not necessary. I have no plans to dump the car anymore than is necessary. I do not want to drag my down pipe or oil pan.

TURBO SET UP

Given the basic parameters of around 350WHP on low boost and around 500WHP on high boost Speed Factory recommended the journal bearing Precision 5857. I have read it can support no more than 605HP. I realize that this puts me just below my imaginary number of 500WHP but I feel that is O K.

Speed Factory custom 3" Down Pipe and Dump Tube

I already have a Tial 38mm wastegate with a 10PSI spring sitting in the garage.

Turbo XS BOV. I have this sitting around.

I have the charge piping from a previous project. I will be using Speed Factory couplers on all ends.

I also have a Garrett Intercooler that I hope is up to the task.

Full Vibrant 3" piping with a custom Speed Factory Goose Neck Muffler

Brake System

Powerslot F/R slotted rotors

Hawk Pads

Goodridge SS brake lines

OEM GSR brake calipers

OEM ITR Brake Booster with Master Cylinder

Motul 5.1 Brake Fluid for DD

AlAddiN|502

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I MIGHT read this some other time..