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So here it is my very first build thread hopefully it's not as bad as I think it is... First a little back story I'm 19 years old and have had 5 or 6 Honda's so far and have always loved them! My build is a 91 integra that was my 4th car and 3rd honda.... Its funny I traded this integra for a sir swapped del sol... I ended up selling the del sol for 1800 and picked up my old teg for 50 dollars more than I orignally bought it for ($1000) I missed this thing and regreted getting rid of it in the first place! I tracked it down for 4 months and finally bought it back! (luckily) I didn't waste anymore time and spent the extra money on parts. Specifically carton mid wet sleeves! Now on to the build goals! I'm trying for a low tune of about 400-425whp and a high tune of around 650whp! Pretty high for most Honda's but I'm hunting some big v8s! Now with the hp goals established in to the useage of the vehicle... Most of you aren't gonna agree with this but guess what it's my build and I'm not here to please you! It's an all around car! I enjoy everything and in no means is this car meant to be super competitive in anything! Drag, autox, and road racing! I'm here to have fun and prove that Hondas can compete with $60k+ cars
The scca class I'm planning on competing in is the sm or street modified class! I'll post my current build parts and plans later tonight or tomorrow!
So here's my list of parts so far!
B18c1 block
Eagle rods (only 2 dunk pulls)
Je 8:1 pistons
Bought all of these from a guy in reading pa for $350!
Darton sleeves
Bought a built head with 1000 miles and it blew a head gasket... Paid $850 and a ny trip for it! Ferrara competition plus valves, supertech turbo dual valve springs and titanium retainers and a port and polish! Paid my machinist 80 bucks to mill it and boom I've got my head!
Bought my cams awhile ago under the impression they were ls Brian crower stage II NA cams but turned out to be gsr cams and I couldn't resist the price! ($200) in like new condition!
I bought a cometic bottom end gasket kit and .051" think headgasket!
Bwr oil filter adapter
Oem oil pump
Gates timing belt and water pump kit with the blue belt
Zerg industries obd0 to obd1 ecu conversion harness
I also got billet aluminium distributor cap block off, coil on plug mounting plate, lcas, solid shifter bushing, and subframe brace for $380 like 40% off lol (cyber monday)
Arp headstuds
I've got almost everything to put the engine together except a crank (the one I got with the block had spun cyclinder 1 bearing pretty bad) once I get the one I found I'll check clearances and order either acl race bearings or the right oem color coded bearings!
Side note I was involved in a pretty serious motorcycle accident in September leaving my left hand almost useless... Broke last 3 bones in my hand they are plated now along with my arm... My pointer is permanent dislocated and a lot of my tendants were ripped and had to be removed... I only have about 20-30% movement and about 50% of feeling so my good friend is gonna help me! His ht name is: da_nine if you haven't read his build I suggest you do it's a great thread! Search: oddball build
Drag racing = big turbo, small radiator and short spurts of racing
Road racing = small turbo, big radiator and long spurts of racing
It is very difficult to have a car that can do both because you will have to choose between either cooling or power. If you want to build a road racing capable car, NA is what you want.
You uh...might want to look into class rules and talk to a local ref before you go building a 650 WHP turbo car for SCCA solo classes.
Thanks I have been reading the rules and such and don't plan on racing scca with 650whp it kinda seems impractical to me because of traction... I Will be racing on the low tune of 400-425whp in scca events...
ALSO THIS ISNT NECESSARILY A BUDGET BUILD BUT IM BUYING THE PARTS AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE AND WAITING FOR THE RIGHT DEALS!
Drag racing = big turbo, small radiator and short spurts of racing
Road racing = small turbo, big radiator and long spurts of racing
It is very difficult to have a car that can do both because you will have to choose between either cooling or power. If you want to build a road racing capable car, NA is what you want.
Again (because I think I already covered this) I understand this and I'm not looking to be very competitive... I'm looking to just have fun! That's what it's all about... Especially after my accident the possibility to be well enough to actually compete are slim!
Thanks I have been reading the rules and such and don't plan on racing scca with 650whp it kinda seems impractical to me because of traction... I Will be racing on the low tune of 400-425whp in scca events...
ALSO THIS ISNT NECESSARILY A BUDGET BUILD BUT IM BUYING THE PARTS AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE AND WAITING FOR THE RIGHT DEALS!
No, no. I'm talking about what modifications are allowed. You can't just say "I want to run in X class". You take your car to tech, they inspect it, and they tell you what class your car will be in. I can't think of any of the base classes that allow aftermarket turbo. Also, 8:1? What the hell. Return those and get some 9.5:1, or even 10.5:1 if you have 93. If you can't return them, try to find someone to trade you. 8:1 is stupidly low. Please, PLEASE get that ancient notion out of your head.
No, no. I'm talking about what modifications are allowed. You can't just say "I want to run in X class". You take your car to tech, they inspect it, and they tell you what class your car will be in. I can't think of any of the base classes that allow aftermarket turbo. Also, 8:1? What the hell. Return those and get some 9.5:1, or even 10.5:1 if you have 93. If you can't return them, try to find someone to trade you. 8:1 is stupidly low. Please, PLEASE get that ancient notion out of your head.
Bruh, he bought them on a deal for extremely cheap. I also have been seeming to find some nonsense about low comp being bad for turbo builds...if he's serious about 650whp it will give him knock headroom, and it's not like you have no low end with low comp either.
I would like to share more with others later in a more appropriate setting/another thread but I'll leave this here; It may not be a honda, but 1.8l toyota engine is pretty close
9:1 compression, you tell me that his powerband isn't nuts (on high boost he achieved 680whp)
I counted the lines for you, feel free to yourself but he's hitting 200wtq before 4k rpm...mindblowing
Oh and just to make it even more ridiculous, only uses 91 octane before 20lbs
Noting the thread, I believe I have now officially seen everything
good luck op
What you are failing to understand is that a turbo sized properly to be responsive at 650hp is going to be lazy as **** at 400...
Also auto-x is mostly 2nd gear driving, unless you plan on running massive width super sticky rubber (which would put you into a class you have no chance of being competitive in) that very sudden surge of torque late in the rpm range from an oversized turbo will cause severe traction issues and your car will be slow 99% of the time.
the key to a competitive auto-x car is having strong, linear mid-range torque production and keeping power levels inline with what the chassis can reasonably handle. In regards to a FWD Honda that level is 350-400hp on a sticky tire (R888, RT-615K) no smaller than 205/50 combined with a fairly serious suspension setup (read: a proper set of full coilovers or ground control sleeves and koni yellows, swaybars, adjustable arms, suspension bushings, etc) and more importantly a solid alignment. A proper turbocharger size for that power level would be something like a gt2871r or gtx2860r. A larger turbo or higher power level will just make the car slower and harder to drive.
You can't have a drag car that is good at auto-x/time attack and vice versa... Entirely different tire and suspension requirements, incredibly different alignment requirements, and so on. I grew up around road racing and I can tell you this is the absolute truth. Now you can have one car to do both auto-x and time attack but having a competitive car in these types of events doesn't carry over well to straight line racing.
The other thing is you're 19... you aren't nearly as good of a driver as you think you are yet.
What's the highest HP car you've ever driven? You just don't go from a sub 200hp car straight to a 650hp car... You won't even know where to start in terms of refining your driving skills because you'll be fighting a car you can't handle. Power is nothing without control... Leave the engine alone and focus on suspension and brake upgrades and learn how to drive the car at low power, learn how the car behaves and what it wants to do around the track. Only then should you start slowly raising power levels. Failure to do this is a really good way to kill yourself or others at the track.
I've worked tons of track days and drift events (worked for Southeast Drift and FormulaD) and I've seen your kind bring a car with way more power than they can handle to the track... Want to know how it usually ends?
I've seen cars hitting walls and other cars due to the car getting loose under power and the driver failing to correct or overcorrect because he simply didn't know what to do. I've seen people roll their cars because they came in to a corner too hot and didn't know how the car was going to behave. I've even seen people have to be cut out of their cars and life-flighted to hospitals because they had more car than they knew what to do with and their lack of driving skills and understanding how the car wanted to behave.
Bottom line, learn how to drive properly in a competitive environment with a low power car ad move up from there. Also realize you won't have a car capable of doing those 3 things well, at least not on the budget a 19 year old has. Be smart
Surprised nobody has mentioned that 8:1 will be just about worthless untill its in boost and its going to take high pressure ratios to make any power. Think of the 80's that was the logic back them. If you want to autox the car higher compression 10.5-11.5 with properly sized turbo that'll spool quickly and make a nice linear powerband. Waiting for the turbo to spool in an 8:1 motor it'll never be in boost in an autox environment.
No, no. I'm talking about what modifications are allowed. You can't just say "I want to run in X class". You take your car to tech, they inspect it, and they tell you what class your car will be in. I can't think of any of the base classes that allow aftermarket turbo. Also, 8:1? What the hell. Return those and get some 9.5:1, or even 10.5:1 if you have 93. If you can't return them, try to find someone to trade you. 8:1 is stupidly low. Please, PLEASE get that ancient notion out of your head.
Exactly I know this and have been researching classes and modifications allowed and So far it looks like the street modified class is what fits my build
Bruh, he bought them on a deal for extremely cheap. I also have been seeming to find some nonsense about low comp being bad for turbo builds...if he's serious about 650whp it will give him knock headroom, and it's not like you have no low end with low comp either.
I would like to share more with others later in a more appropriate setting/another thread but I'll leave this here; It may not be a honda, but 1.8l toyota engine is pretty close
9:1 compression, you tell me that his powerband isn't nuts (on high boost he achieved 680whp)
I counted the lines for you, feel free to yourself but he's hitting 200wtq before 4k rpm...mindblowing
Oh and just to make it even more ridiculous, only uses 91 octane before 20lbs
Noting the thread, I believe I have now officially seen everything
good luck op
See this guy reads the post! Thanks man! 8:1? Yes I'd prefer 9:1 but I got a steal on a bundle and can't trade them so I'm sticking with them!
What you are failing to understand is that a turbo sized properly to be responsive at 650hp is going to be lazy as **** at 400...
Also auto-x is mostly 2nd gear driving, unless you plan on running massive width super sticky rubber (which would put you into a class you have no chance of being competitive in) that very sudden surge of torque late in the rpm range from an oversized turbo will cause severe traction issues and your car will be slow 99% of the time.
the key to a competitive auto-x car is having strong, linear mid-range torque production and keeping power levels inline with what the chassis can reasonably handle. In regards to a FWD Honda that level is 350-400hp on a sticky tire (R888, RT-615K) no smaller than 205/50 combined with a fairly serious suspension setup (read: a proper set of full coilovers or ground control sleeves and koni yellows, swaybars, adjustable arms, suspension bushings, etc) and more importantly a solid alignment. A proper turbocharger size for that power level would be something like a gt2871r or gtx2860r. A larger turbo or higher power level will just make the car slower and harder to drive.
You can't have a drag car that is good at auto-x/time attack and vice versa... Entirely different tire and suspension requirements, incredibly different alignment requirements, and so on. I grew up around road racing and I can tell you this is the absolute truth. Now you can have one car to do both auto-x and time attack but having a competitive car in these types of events doesn't carry over well to straight line racing.
The other thing is you're 19... you aren't nearly as good of a driver as you think you are yet.
What's the highest HP car you've ever driven? You just don't go from a sub 200hp car straight to a 650hp car... You won't even know where to start in terms of refining your driving skills because you'll be fighting a car you can't handle. Power is nothing without control... Leave the engine alone and focus on suspension and brake upgrades and learn how to drive the car at low power, learn how the car behaves and what it wants to do around the track. Only then should you start slowly raising power levels. Failure to do this is a really good way to kill yourself or others at the track.
I've worked tons of track days and drift events (worked for Southeast Drift and FormulaD) and I've seen your kind bring a car with way more power than they can handle to the track... Want to know how it usually ends?
I've seen cars hitting walls and other cars due to the car getting loose under power and the driver failing to correct or overcorrect because he simply didn't know what to do. I've seen people roll their cars because they came in to a corner too hot and didn't know how the car was going to behave. I've even seen people have to be cut out of their cars and life-flighted to hospitals because they had more car than they knew what to do with and their lack of driving skills and understanding how the car wanted to behave.
Bottom line, learn how to drive properly in a competitive environment with a low power car ad move up from there. Also realize you won't have a car capable of doing those 3 things well, at least not on the budget a 19 year old has. Be smart
So hopefully this will put this **** to rest... I debated making this thread because I knew this would happen!
One Im not trying to be that competitive!
Two don't assume because I'm 19 I dont know how to drive or realize I have a lot to learn because I know I do... I also know how to analyze myself... Like my biggest issue is lift thottle oversteer.
Three: don't assume that my 19 year old BUDGET is similar to others BUDGET based on my age... Not trying to get is a pissing contest but my job during school made me 13/hr and the day I graduated high school I had a full-time job making 16/hr so comparing to others my age I'm making a **** ton of money because they make like 8-10/hr I SAID BUDGET BECAUSE IM WAITING FOR THE RIGHT DEALS AND BUYING THE NAME BRAND PARTS FOR THE LOWEST PRICE I CAN FIND!
Fyi I have driven multiple 400+hp Honda's so I know what it's like at my low tune goal!
I plan on running 275s up front and 255s in the rear (within the SM class rule)
GUYS PLEASE READ THIS!
1. IM NOT LOOKING TO BE COMPETITIVE!
2. I DONT HAVE A SET BUDGET
3.IM NOT YOURE TYPICAL 19YO
ON UNEMPLOYMENT I STILL PROBABLY MAKE MORE THAN SOME OF YOU (TRUTH) ESPECIALLY SOME OF THE YOUNGER PEOPLE LIKE ME
I seriously doubt ANY of the base classes will let you run non-OEM turbo, period. One of the base class rules is "if we don't say yes, then the answer is no." Nowhere do they talk about it being OK to add a turbo where there wasn't one originally. Comparing a Toyota to a Honda? Yeah...OK. Please, keep telling us how you know better, when you want to make a comparison like that. Low compression is the way of the past. "Can't trade them"? What, is your soul eternally bound to four slugs of metal or something?
Your car is going to be sluggish off the line, it's going to get comparably bad gas mileage if you ever want to DD it, your powerband is going to be nothingnothingnothingEVERYTHING, which again, **** for DD, and with your whole going twelve different directions with one project thing, you aren't going to be competitive in any venue. But whatever, it's your car. We'll be here when you're ready to join us in doing it the better way.
The details are in the post but I was riding my bike and someone hit me while I was starting my legal u-turn
Broken arm and multiple broken bones in my hand... I've got about 35% feeling and movement in my left hand
I seriously doubt ANY of the base classes will let you run non-OEM turbo, period. One of the base class rules is "if we don't say yes, then the answer is no." Nowhere do they talk about it being OK to add a turbo where there wasn't one originally. Comparing a Toyota to a Honda? Yeah...OK. Please, keep telling us how you know better, when you want to make a comparison like that. Low compression is the way of the past. "Can't trade them"? What, is your soul eternally bound to four slugs of metal or something?
Your car is going to be sluggish off the line, it's going to get comparably bad gas mileage if you ever want to DD it, your powerband is going to be nothingnothingnothingEVERYTHING, which again, **** for DD, and with your whole going twelve different directions with one project thing, you aren't going to be competitive in any venue. But whatever, it's your car. We'll be here when you're ready to join us in doing it the better way.
You sir aren't paying any attention to what is being said! I AM NOT TRYING TO BE COMPETITIVE! it's my f***ing build I'm gonna do what I want! As for trading them nobody wants them which is understandable... In the rules for the street modified class it note that induction is unrestricted! Don't believe me? I have included a screenshot for you! I respectively take any info people give me and I realize I didn't say how much I already knew... I have done my research but have chose to go the way I did because it's gonna make me happy and let me have fun... The 650whp I already said is a ballpark and not gonna be used for scca... The turbo is gonna be an hx35 or hx40 because of there durability and rebuildability focused on the 400whp range but also be enough for a decent high tune... Leaning more to the hx40... I mean come on man I only wanna do this to have fun and I have fun with 17sec passes and 14 sec passes it doesn't matter it's all fun!
The details are in the post but I was riding my bike and someone hit me while I was starting my legal u-turn
Broken arm and multiple broken bones in my hand... I've got about 35% feeling and movement in my left hand
You sir aren't paying any attention to what is being said! I AM NOT TRYING TO BE COMPETITIVE! it's my f***ing build I'm gonna do what I want! As for trading them nobody wants them which is understandable... In the rules for the street modified class it note that induction is unrestricted! Don't believe me? I have included a screenshot for you! I respectively take any info people give me and I realize I didn't say how much I already knew... I have done my research but have chose to go the way I did because it's gonna make me happy and let me have fun... The 650whp I already said is a ballpark and not gonna be used for scca... The turbo is gonna be an hx35 or hx40 because of there durability and rebuildability focused on the 400whp range but also be enough for a decent high tune... Leaning more to the hx40... I mean come on man I only wanna do this to have fun and I have fun with 17sec passes and 14 sec passes it doesn't matter it's all fun!
12-16-2015, 02:55 PM
EKCivic14's "Budget" DA9 Turbo Integra Progress Build
