TURBOED-TEG

Ok, I have the Drag III Kit, Apexi N1 Catback, MSD-BTM ignition, Magnecor wires, Walhbro intank pump, Apexi S-AFC, and HKS Turbo timer all on a 1998 GS. My problem is that when I took it to the Dyno it only put up 145hp what the **** is that, I mean Drag says 100hp increase, so this is saying my car only ad 45 hp at the wheels stock, I don't think so. Anybod experienced anything like this? What could be the problem. BTW it is an Automatic but the boost never drops.

6.5 is the most I have gotten it to boost to, usually I can only get 5psi - 5.5psi

Ben Huynh

iTrader: (6)

Replace your Walrbro pump with the Airtex pump. The DRAG kit requires a high pressure fuel pump.

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

oh man, ur not getting ANY fuel.. get an inline fuel pump in there before u go kaboom..

Flamenco-T

did you do the install ? double check your fuel system (Fmu and fuel pump)

make sure the fuel pump is not wired backward, are you losing boost, i.e. do you have a boost leak ? do you know how to check for boost leakage ?


stan

SIK IN DA HED

you should be putting out more than that. i agree with these guys... its your fuel. besides... you have an auto, so of course you wont have the usual gains like most manual turbo'd tegs.

turboex

hey man i had the super walbro fuel pump then my motor blew. never again.... amd the wastegate stuck,, gotta love the deltagate. but the poor pump never had a chance

turbopimp

You need to use the Airtex high pressure pump that came with the kit along with the fmu. Also make sure the BTM is not retarding the timing unecessarily... assuming everything else is installed correctly, chances are the problem is in the fuel or ignition...

TURBOED-TEG

I also installed an AEM fuel rail and fuel pressure gauge. When I am in full boost i peg the fuel pressure gauge.

The boost never drops off it will creep sometimes but usually hangs out right at 5.5psi. I have peak hold gauges so I can check where I am at, also I am not running lean at all. I have an EGT probe and everything is within safe limits.

Could the guy who dynoed the car screw up hooking the car up to the dyno, or could there be a problem with the guys dyno. I have a friend with a Galant VR-4 that has a 16G turbo, FMIC, HKS Twin Power, Technomotive ECU upgrade, etc. and from a rolling start I can hang with him and he is at 15psi, since his car is awd and heavier than mine I can keep up if we don't launch from a dead stop. I have to believe the car is producing more then what the dyno stated!

Arturbo

Im more than 100% sure its your pump.

art

TURBOED-TEG

I don't understand how it could be the fuel - the car isn't running lean, in fact it was running rich and we had to trim it off with the AFC. The dyno tech said the fuel curve looked great! I don't see how the in-line would produce more than the intank pump. I know somebody who has a fully built H22 running over 20psi with this fuel pump. How can I tell if that is the problem if the gauge is pegged when it is under boost?

Arturbo

Do you have an intank, if so what brand? And what is the max psi you fuel pump goes to?

art

Arturbo

Oh and what rise rate fmu do you have?

TURBOED-TEG

I have a walbro 255 - I don't remeber fmu rate. I don't recal ever knowing? I never adjusted the vortech unit that came from Drag, we just installed it. How can i check?

Arturbo

Well drag usually comes with a 12:1. Ok, now answer this, what is the max psi your guage reads at?

art

TURBOED-TEG

100 psi Defi Link system http://store5.yimg.com/I/machv_1678_5213731
Here is a link to the gauge

5 Liter Eater

I'd look for boost leaks. When I had my rurbo Civic it ran good for a while and then started to loose power over time. When I was under the car I found a rip in my intercooler coupling. While the car still made the same (or almost the same) boost the turbo was really having to spin to make it. Once I fixed the rip it was like a new car.

Arturbo

Ok lets do some math here(I hate math to)
If you have a 12:1 FMU which means that for every 1psi of boost(turbo) the fuel pressure will increase 12psi. And you said you are running 6.5psi, right?

so, 12* 6.5psi= 78psi
So your fuel pressure has increased 78psi from stock. So lets add on the stock fuel pressure at idle which is lets say 40psi.

So 78psi +40 = 118psi. That that would explain why your fuel pressure gauge is pegged.
So how do I know its you fuel pump? Lets look at the graph from walbro here and you will notice that at anything above 110psi and the walbro HIGH pressure flows maybe 1gph. The specs dont even go past 110 so we dont know what it flows, or should I say it doesnt?

I hope I was of some help. Feel free to ask anything you want.

art

TURBOED-TEG

so should I put the inline in place also...will this help? Both fuel pumps won't make the car way rich?

turbosol

Hey Art isn't the stock FPR a 1:1, so there would be an additional 6.5 psi of fuel pressure?

Arturbo

yeah you can leave the walbro in there and put the inline inbetween the fuel filter and rail.

I never thought of that, but yeah. Thanks for pointing that out.

art

TURBOED-TEG

Are we sure this is it? The dyno couldn't lie? or be off? If so I will try it.

Arturbo

Well what was used to monitor the Air to fuel? And where in the exhaust path was it? And is the dyno using WinPep software?

art

RAWB

Did they give you a readout of your A/F's? I would definately hook that in-line up. My inline shut off during one of my dyno runs and my power dropped off like 30hp and my A/F's were like 16:1! But if the guy is saying your good and your BUTTdyno sez your car is runnin alot stronger than 145hp, they probably did hook up something wrong.

TURBOED-TEG

I was wrong about one thing...the intank pump is a Holley 255 NOT Walbro. The check engine light came on a week ago and I hooked it up to an OBDII scanning thing and it threw the code of the second o2 sensor was reading rich. So I am not sure how I am not getting the fuel. I am planning on installing the additional pump and seeing if I notice a difference. This pump is suppose to flow ungodly amounts of fuel so, I don't know. i am going to take the car to another dyno and see if the dyno was messed up the first time.

Arturbo

The Holley is the exact same thing as the Walbro. Ok, now you said the CEL came on and Im assuming you came up with a code 45, right? If you did that code reads out as running rich or lean.

The thing is that when came on is when you are running closed loop. here is some info I got from Hondata on closed loop:
"In closed loop operation the ECU uses one or more oxygen sensors as a feedback loop in order to adjust the fuel mixture. This gives the name ‘closed loop’ from the closed feedback loop. The ECU won’t run in a closed feedback loop all the time, so ‘open loop’ is used to describe the operation of the ECU when the mixture is not being adjusted in this way (usually when the engine is cold or when running under high load)."
So as you can see you maybe running closed loop, but in WOT open loop you may probably not. Why dont you just try the inline pump and then dyno again?

Or keep you Holley in there and get something like hondata.

art