I have the same exact issue with my Revhard DP.. just run with the other 4 bolts

 

i just went ahead and used 4bolts with lockwashers...there was just no way of getting ANYTHING into that last bolt, not even a washer or a nut...

i got everything on and now my problem is the downpipe is hitting the a/c compressor where the pipes begin to bend...is there any way around this other than cutting or rewelding? can i "flaten" out part of the pipe to get it to slide beside the compressor?

TIA

 

where are you getting these stiuds your using and if you say home depot what size are they

 

on most of my DPs, i just say run the 4 bolts. I ahve had ZERO problems so far, except the initial phone calls full of bitching(understandable). Its either that, or ditch AC, or go 2.5" DP...

 

it is a 2.5"...you guys think i would be ok with hammering one side of the pipe to flatten it out just to clear the compressor? probobly no more than half an inch to clear it...what do you guys think?

 

well jonhisenglish decided to reimburse me for whatever expense i get for the downpipe...i decided to hammer it down a little to flatten it out, and its a tight fit... the only other problem is that the flange to connect to the cat is way off centered...the holes dont line up at all...so i got midas to weld a rotatable flange for about 70 bucks...cheapest i could find WITH a discount...

 

I had the same problem when making a custom DP to retain AC, I had to put the bolt through the flange and then weld the bend to the flange....
I don't think anything will work, looks like a really tight fit. I vote leave it out.

 

I know when I first got my drag kit, there was a bolt already in there(the dp). I thought it was odd, but it makes since because I can never get it out. I think when the flange gets welded onto the pipe, the bolt needs to be in there before it is welded. I would say, take it to someone that can take the flange off, put the bolt in and the weld the flange back on. I would not run around without that bolt on there, think of all the rust that would build up from the carbon if there is the smallest amount space in that area.

 

Good thuing he reimbursed you, its sucks having to modify a finished product to make it work. Sounds liek alot of trouble. For stud sizes DO a search on "FLamenco-T he made a real good thread you should save in notepad about bolts, fittings, oil return lines. It has sizes ect.... for downpipe i beleive i used 8mmx 1.25x30mm I go them @ ace. Studs are more expensive than the bolts, but i like some reassurance when driving.

 

yeah theres a lot of threads with the bolt sizes...good thing hulkhb hooked me up with the bolts when he sold the turbo to me...

hopefully everything bolts in place now (somewhat)...*crosses fingers*

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94TurboGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes (a lot of times) I weld it with the bolt in there... it won't come out once it's welded but it still turns obviously. It's tough, but obviously helps in the end.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Werd.

-PHiZ

 

I honestly think you should send the downpipe back. I know you said it took you a while to get this downpipe, but trust me it will cause you bigger headaches in the long run. I guarantee you that running it with 4 bolts will eventually cause an exhaust leak. If you don't want to send it back, then simply get a cut off wheel and cut the 5 bolt flange off along the welds, get the bolt that you need, install it onto the flange and have a muffler place reweld the flange onto the downpipe. Just make sure you make a mark or a line on the flange and downpipe so that the person who welds it can realign them in the correct position. Good luck.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Overblown-Teg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you cut a groove in the botom of the hole.. then put the bolt in the turbo so its almost tight.. Then slide it over the bolt and tighten the rest of the way.. That should work out ok for you.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like a greath idea

 

I had to hammer my 2.5" downpipe to clear my AC. My downpipe is so fukin ugly. Its been welding about 10 times and all sorts of places. Its also ugly. I used 4 out of the 5 bolts, and my car was leaking exhaust. It sucked

I grinded down the hole on the flange, used a stud, and squeezed a nut on there. BARELY fit. I could only turn the nut with a set of vicegrips like a tiny bit at a time? What does that mean? It means that it took me 90 minutes to screw it on....

 

do you have one of his pipes as well??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by si_mekanik &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had to hammer my 2.5" downpipe to clear my AC. My downpipe is so fukin ugly. Its been welding about 10 times and all sorts of places. Its also ugly. I used 4 out of the 5 bolts, and my car was leaking exhaust. It sucked</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

well i already got the reimbursement and already did stuff to make it work...only problem now is with my turbo leaking oil...

so close, yet so far

 

Damn, im glad to see they can bend them that tight. My D16z6 is going to have a tight ****** bend on it too when im done.

Hoping it wil fit