b3st0fth3w0rst

so here is my problem. i just bought a sc62 billet turbo from precision, and i notice that the damn thing his getting oil all over the center section and the front cover some how. it seems to only happen when i push the car, im guess because the oil pressure increases. id hate to think the seals are bad, and it does NOT smoke at all!!! i pulled the downpipe off and it's clean, no signs of oil leaking into it. so i was thinking maybe i need and oil restrictor so i call up precision and the said not to use one. what do u guys think? it's a -3an feed w/ no restrictor and a -10an return on a honda motor making about 90psi oil pressure at full throttle.


backside of the front cover




i even get oil splatter here on the manifold between cylinders 1&2


exhaust housing, oil pretty much on the sam spot as the compressor housing

dpetro1

i cant see the pics (at work) but are you sure the feed line isnt leaking or something? weird that there is oil on the chra but not inside the housings at all.

9 CRX si 1

You will find mixed opinions about running a restrictor or not, some people have luck either way. but depending on the turbo and where youre getting the oil from the motor, tells what size if any you should use.

I'd recommend looking over some threads @ home made turbo

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

What size feed line are you running to the turbo? This can become a very heated debating thred and you wiull get mixed answers. According to alot of people a -3an line doesnt need a restrictor and only a -4an needs one.

Me personally i run a -3an line with a function7 regulator and have had no problems what so ever with about 14k miles on my turbo right now. It still leaks a little bit of oil but thats normal, i believe without the regulator it would be leaking badly. When i say leak i mean every oil change i take filter off and just have to whipe out the inlet on the turbo

I seen better spooling also with the oil regulator on my car. Im running a garrett turbo equivalent to the precision sc60 series

now i know borg warner turbos actually say you need to run a straight -4an line to them or they starve for oil. Precision turbo should run just fine with the regulator on it. been doing it for years on my car and my buddy also running same hting on his sc6152sp

b3st0fth3w0rst

yea mixed answers is right. precisions recommend a -4an line with NO restrictor for this turbo. personally i don't plan on running a -4 with no restrictor. then other people say use a restrictor while others say no it will starve it. to me it seems as tho the oil pressure my be too high and is blowing past the seal on the compressor side. i'm running a -3 line by the way, and i'm only having this oil problem when i really push the car, and even then it does not smoke at all.

so i'm thinking maybe i'll just check the drain, drain gasket and the feed for leaks again, and if i find nothing just leave it and if it starts to smoke i'll put a restrictor.

precision also said it might be too much crankcase pressure not allowing the returning oil from the turbo to flow fast enough cause a back-up in the return line. i currently have the 2 plugs on the back of the block open and running to a catch can that vents to atmosphere. even after a hard run the can is pretty empty, barely anything appears in it, so i'm guessing that the crankcase is being vented well enough.

this whole thing is just mind-boggling to me really, cause if it were just a little oil in the inlet, ok, but there is oil on the back cover and the center housing...

i'm going to pull the turbo off and inspect everything, i'll let u guys know what i find out.

turbodailydan

i was running a -3 line with a restrictor on a 57trim garrett on a fresh build and on the first dyno mapping session the turbo **** itself (oil starvation) so i now run a -4 line and no restrictor and has been good the last 6months or so..

you shouldnt really need a restrictor with a -3 line, where is your oil feed taken from, the oil pressure switch?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

i def could be crankcase pressure, what are you runnign for breather system?

everyone has different results which makes it very difficult to make a 100% true statement as to which way to go for a feed line size and restrictor or none. I guess just have to see how your setup reacts

b3st0fth3w0rst

ok guys, i figured out the problem/problems. first off my oil return line was not the best design. it came down from the turbo and did a 90 degree toward the pan. the problem there was that the 90 degree bend sat almost level with the fitting on the pan, possible allowing oil to back-up in the line. easy fix, i just shortened the line n put a 45 degree fitting at the pan so now it's almost a straight shot from the turbo to the pan.

second problem. the large o-ring between the front cover and it's backing plate was broken and missing about 3 inches of it. so when the oil backed up in the return and leaked into the cover, since the seal was broken, the boost just pushed it everywhere. that explains the oil on the center section and my head.

third problem, had too much oil in the damn motor, cause i got the wrong dip stick. and YES they are different between vtec and non-vtec. when i took the return off a bunch came pouring out.

thanks for all the help guys, gald i got it fixed!

V-SPEC 1

I'm glad you figure out the problem you were having. Are you ready for a good tune? your car is going to be fun. I'll hit you up later.

b3st0fth3w0rst

yea i'm glad too, cause i didn't really want to put a restrictor in it. and it's already been street tuned. don't know how much power it make yet though. i'll put it on the dyno when i get back home in a few days. Boost=crazy fun lol

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

15650-P30-000 DIPSTICK, OIL 1 1999 INTEGRA LS
15650-P30-000 DIPSTICK, OIL 1 1999 INTEGRA GSR
15650-P30-000 DIPSTICK, OIL No Color 1 2000 CIVIC

looks to be the same dip stick to me according to acura ls gsr type r are all the same dipstick . also b16 is same dipstick. if your engine is not running and you pull the return line off chances are oil will run out.

but on a good note repairing that drian line is what more than likely fixed the problem and the oring just sealed things up.

b3st0fth3w0rst

i donno man, i pulled a couple dipsticks from a stack i had and 1 was longer than the others

single slam 12

Thats funny same thing hapeened to a friend of mine with a 6262 billett wheel pt turbo but he had a lil bit more oil then what you had. i put a 3an feed line and a resstrictor and drilled it out a bit and fixed his return line and the issue went away he was smoking out the exhaust also but all is ok now.. glad to hear you rectified the problem.

skunk2allmotor

i have a 6262 and im have burning oil problems but im also using a spa manifold and i can get the turbo to sit so my oil feed isnt directly at the top any help?

DUKE LADUKE

I have a -3AN feedline. I don't have a restrictor on it . I have had no problems with not running a restrictor. I have not had any burnt oil issues or oil on the housing. ATP actually recommended to start off with a non restricted fitting .

90blackcrx

This goes for everyone in this thread having issues

Why not hook an inline oil pressure gauge and go off of that. Seriosuly this topic pops up once a week and its always the same answers, precisions can only recommend what would be best, each car will be different as far as oil pressure goes. It takes about 10 minutes to hook up a gauge in line and see.

These new hp precision units require a lot more oil, we're running a -4 no restrictor on our cars over here and never have an issue.

DUKE LADUKE

Would not running a resterictor on a 3071r cause the oil return to have residue on the fittings?. The fittings are brand new but it litterally will drip twice and just coat the fitting before the pan .Fittings are brand new and so is the line.

dpetro1

on gt ball bearing turbos you must run an oil restrictor.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

The required -4an is for oil volume. Volume and pressure are different. turbo oil rings are designed to handle up to 65 psi of oil pressure. we all know hondas make more than that. a restrictor is needed IMO. a turbo should have 25-65 psi of oil pressure. i personally wouldnt run the maximum amount of oil pressure it can handle. being in th emiddle or high middle would be ideal 45-50 psi IMO.

Been running a -3 feed with a function7 which is a .125 restriction. its stil allowing plenty of oil just not the high pressures our engines produce

Tjabo

Can you elaborate on this? I have my oil pressure sending unit in a "T" *RIGHT* on top of the turbo inlet, so I have a very accurate picture of what pressure the turbo is seeing. The results don't make any sense to me, so I'm curious what you think a person is supposed to be shooting for?

FWIW, I spoke with Precision today while I was on my way to the hydraulics store to buy parts to make the mother of all oil drains. It was a very interesting conversation in that I was told that running a -4 line is good, and yes, I should build the mother of all oil drains to see if that helps. But overall, he said that there is sometimes a problem with a largish turbo on a smallish engine where the wheels and shaft just don't turn fast enough at idle to keep the seals seated. . . .

I'll keep digging into this, but it seems like you might indeed want a very low oil pressure going to these turbos at idle, potentially created by the right restriction from the oil line or a restrictor. I know one thing though, I don't want to ruin my sweet new turbo by starving the journal bearings of oil.

It's all very interesting!

EDIT: TurboLS posted while I was typing, and he included some interesting data there.