What is the difference between these 2 MSD HVC2 Coils
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8253/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MSD-8261/
Why Drag Racing use only for the last one?

Thks

 

Check the box that says "compare" on each of the items, then click "COMPARE", and you'll see the differences. Its just a small different in kJ of output. That's it.

/Thread

 

OK, I saw, thks, but which one do you use usually?

 

8261 is for 7 series msd ignitions.
8253 is for 6 series msd ignitions.

 

There ya go.. but i'm sure now the question is what's the difference between the 6 an 7 series digital ignitions.

 

About 250 bucks LOL and a whole bunch of extra options

 

Right.. Options which the OP may (or may not) need.

 

I remember when I was still runing my HVCII that the dwell time mattered as well. I can't seem to find where I read that. It allowed the spark to "stay around" longer if that makes sense?

 

So I can keep my MSD 6A! lol just need to buy a Ignition Coil (the blue one) but the ignition box is very big, where do you hide it lol!

 

I don't know if it was just me, but I was going through a lot of coils and igniters with the 6a box, switched to the digital 6 and never had another issue. then again my box is mounted behind the dash along with the coil driver, and my coil is behind the headlight.

give it a shot, mount the MSD box inside the cabin, and the coil far from the engine, and get a new OEM iginiter.

 

Or ignitor bypass and not have that failure anymore

 

just being curious whats the point of the ignitor bypass on the later cars? I'm in the old school club, 86 Accord with the entire ignitor inside of the dizzy, the issues these have is the ignitors wear out and overheat,especially if you tried to drive a different coil off of it. I'm running an MSD 6T and an MSD GM blaster coil, they should be just fine for the street. The main reason I ran the box was to unload the factory ignitor, it shouldn't be anything but a trigger signal for the box now, why are you guys having issues with the later ignitors burning out if they are just trigger signals for the boxes? a lot of early civics and CRXs ran this same one piece ignitor that I have

 

all civics from 92-00 has the igniter inside the distributor

 

thats what I thought just verifying. I had a 98 at one point, the early cars either had the one piece ignitor with pickup in the dizzy and an external coil, or the pickup in the dizzy and ignitor mounted on the outside of the dizzy with an external coil, the issue I run into on mine, is early civics has the exact same all in one pickup,ignitor inside of the dizzy, but it was mounted in such a way that the dizzy acted as a heatsink and required heatsink grease between it and the dizzy, the accords used the same design but mounted it up on aluminum posts so it couldn't dissipate heat, you can see the issue here, the early ones even had a warning in the service manual that they REQUIRED seat sink grease. Hopefully the box handling all the current will solve the issue

 

the bypass box gets rid of the failure of an ignitor thats inside the distributor

 

I take it there were failing because the coil built in was open circuited and no longer being used?

 

The higher the hp the quicker the ignitors fail. Heat and stress make them fail

 

I couldn't remember if the dizzys in those were actually triggered or they just acted as a distribution point for the spark and a coil and were triggered by the ECU, I'm used to working on the older ones with an external coil, they were basically a hall effect sensor with a toothed reluctor wheel and the circuitry to drive the coil. They were independent of the ECU. At least the carb ones. I'm showing my age here. Anyone here running the 6T box? I set mine up with the rev limiter module since my car never had a rev limiter to begin with,