<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by digitalcongo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So then using bottled CO2 to cool air charge is actually hurting an engine...?
or are you talking strictly byproduct of combustion...?</TD></TR></TABLE>

You dont Inject Co2 directly into the stream you do it through a heat exhanger.

 

i got two words

block posting


4 channels of happiness for this idea


thanx for the info on the heat exhanger...i never looked into those things...just assumed how they worked...

and archidictus insulted my intelligent *** as well...over absolutely nothing...
that dude is wack...

 

my first run of the season, checking for knock/detonation...... before my tranny crapped out that is

 

LOL, that pic is great

 

put down the cell phone and drive !!!

 

damn double post

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackCRX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

my first run of the season, checking for knock/detonation...... before my tranny crapped out that is</TD></TR></TABLE>

that **** is too funny

 

These really arnt expensive... U can hear the vtec pins engage if u listen closely it was attached to front coolant plug behidn the exhaust manifold.

 

lmao

 

Does it make much of a difference if you mount the copper pipe on the head or block?

I haven't tried it on the block..

 

I haven't tried it on the head, works well on the block.



This kinda shows how mine is made I'll try and remember to get pics if I ever leave work.

 

OK here's some real pics. The red hose is an air line that's been shaved down to fit inside the tube. The hose overtop it with the two clamps is just a brace to hold the two halves together, I'm a ghetto bastard. First pic's my brother's n/a LS/VTEC, the next is my turbo LS/VTEC.

 

with j.davis' and splittimes electronic setups, will the OEM sensor work? or do i need a bosch unit?

 

I'd use the bosch unit. I picked one up for $4 shipped on ebay. With that said, I don't think it works but I'm not going to confirm or deny until I get another part so I can make sure its all wired up correctly.

http://users.wpi.edu/~mark944/...f.htm

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...WA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...WA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...WA:IT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISA...WA:IT

 

i love this thread. read all 10 pages

-Luke

 

These work great, I built some myself. It really sounded like rice falling on tin foil. Then I got a ticket. The end.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">These work great, I built some myself. It really sounded like rice falling on tin foil. Then I got a ticket. The end.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOLOL

 

Does anyone know if it is any less accurate bolting the flange for the DET can hose in between the block and A/c bracket (still on for the torque mount) versus being in the same spot without the bracket on? Also how much harder is it to hear DET when bolted to the power steering bolts on the head vesus the A/c on the block? I would imagine there is a lot more valvetrain noise on the head being picked up.

 

The det can should be bolted as close to top dead center as possible, back of the block and as close to between cyl 2 and 3.

 

Seeing as how hondas are usually open deck, that the engine is bolted together firmly, and that sound travels many times faster through a solid than a liquid or gas, it shouldn't really matter. But Honda puts theirs below the intake near the top almost between cylinders 2 & 3, so I'd image that is one of the better spots.

BTW I set my sohc at 1.1deg/psi on a small T3/8.2:1 CR, and based on the experts at the dyno & the graph, it was just about right for 93 octane.


Modified by HiProfile at 11:38 PM 6/1/2007

 

yup bringing in back! Anyways have any of you thought of using a stethoscope the one made for automotive. Their only like 2.99 from harbor frieght http://search.harborfreight.co...cope and they were design for listening to automotive engine noises in the first places. I'm thinking about going to lowes/home depot getting the hoses the same size as the current ones but in extended lenth so i can route it back to the cabin. For the the other end i'm going to bend the metal point around so it fits around a bolt either the front by the exhaust or by the rear intake manifold. What you guys think? This should be easier to make.

 

i use a regular dr stethascope attached to a bolt on back of the block. routed into cabin.. low budget but works.

 

what u use to extended the cable? yea i think using stephescope is a better idea not as noticeable heh

 

Had to bring this thread back and add a suggestion

Instead of splitting the tubes into ear protectors put that tube on the end of this, works AMAZING!


http://www.etool.ca/RENDER/1/26/330/4616.html