yea my autometer reads at about 1psi when the car is off, but when im at full boost it reads almost 8, even tho i know im only running 5-6, so i dunno. (at least i hope im only running 5-6)

 

Do you guys read the instructions? Autometer mechanical gauges have an air core movement that DO NOT ZERO OUT when the power is turned off. Notice when you put power to them they magically zero out. If you further doubt your gauge call Autometer tech support of visit thier website for info on air core movement gauges.

 

screw autometer mechanical boost gauges i had mine on my car for a week and stopped reading past 2psi when i came back from the track...save ur money and pick up a defi d series. my defi boost gauge is dead on.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by stizzit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Gotta love the uneducated H-T class of '04:

I've said it a million times but since people still complain here is some documentation DIRECTLY from autometer's website...

"We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed. It uses an electrical charge to return to zero when power is applied, and when a signal is fed to the instrument, the pointer will indicate the proper reading. This is normal, and no cause for alarm. The unit is not damaged or broken, it just doesn't look like most other instruments out there. For Example: The pointers, on most modern OE (original equipment) gauges, just hang there when power is removed. We use air core movement due to its rapid response characteristics, so when you stomp on the accelerator, the pointer is capable of showing you exact engine RPM.

On some other gauges, such as the pyrometers or EGT gauges, sit off zero, too. But, even after you connect them and turn the power on, the pointer still doesn't go back to zero. What gives? Well, provided the gauge is connected to its probe, it will show the ambient air temperature. So, unless it is zero degrees F outside, it will not read zero. For example, if your vehicle has sat for a long period of time (allowing the engine to completely cool) the gauge will accurately reflect the outdoor temperature when power is applied. If the outdoor temperature is 70 degrees, the gauge will read 70 degress."

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I REALLY like it when people flame the class of 04 for being stupid and yet they put up incorrect informatoin that isn't pertinent to the situaiton at all. He has a MECHANICAL gauge.. read, comprehend, post. follow those guidelines.

to add something to this conversation, my autometer is 1psi off on the plus side... so yea, they suck.

 

i run an autometer boost gauge. have never had a problem with it and i like it a lot. but i use my avcr boost controller as my second boost gauge kind of.

 

I dislike Autometer and thats strictly IMO. Autometer A/F gauges are pointless and just look 'cool'. My Autometer tach w/ shift light is 300 RPM's off (which I used strictly for the shift light). Basically you get what you pay for. Good quality gauges arent cheap.

 

WTF are you talking about? Autometer Mechanical boost gauges DO NOT use electrical power to operate. The only electrical power it uses it for the light bulb. A power and ground for light bulb.

You CAN literally take your mouth and stick it into the hole of the mechanical gauge and blow or suck and you can get the needle to move!!! Me and my friend did this with our gauge. That is how mechanical gauge works. I believe it works on a spring.

I"ve been an Autometer fan for the past 2.5 years. I've have all Autometer air fuel, voltage, oil temp, oil pressure, and now this mechanical boost gauge. I've never had a problem with the air fuel,voltage, oil temp (which are electrical by the way), but it seems like Autometer just has a poor worksmanship in their mechanical boost gauges. Thats all.

And that is why I'm gonna go for a different brand in boost gauges, like DEFI D-gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattEG &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I REALLY like it when people flame the class of 04 for being stupid and yet they put up incorrect informatoin that isn't pertinent to the situaiton at all. He has a MECHANICAL gauge.. read, comprehend, post. follow those guidelines.

to add something to this conversation, my autometer is 1psi off on the plus side... so yea, they suck. </TD></TR></TABLE> <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbozxi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Have you read the instrtuctions? On my Pro comp fuel pressure gauge I think all the autometer mechanical gauges have it. There is a screw for adjustment to let rapped air out of the gauge it tells you what to do so have a look. It will save me typing. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

autometer is normally very good about fixing them, but for how cheap they are i would rather just buy a new one. my defi d gauge ( i think that is the cheaper mechanical boost gauge) was off 5 psi after 6 months it can happen to the nicest gauges.

 

I just swapped my Autometer 4301 boost gauge with a DEFI D-gauge boost gauge. Omg the quality looks soo much better. But for some reason, i don't know how to explain this but i noticed that if you screw down the gauge too hard into the bezel, the needle moves as much as 1mmHG. this was very wierd.... oh well. its probably a mechanical thing.

 

Mine did that too...I got rid of it....
Autometer

 

Yeah, i have an spi gauge, it resets to about 1psi,
i'm supposed to be making 6psi on my supercharged hatch,
it reads 8psi!
Personally I would not purchase an autometer product myself,
i've heard to many bad things about them. But they sell SO many gauges that it might
just be luck of the draw sort of thing, i've heard of vdo gauges having this prob too..
i'm guessing any brand has the chance of having this problem.. its just a certain percentage of them to.. so the more gauges the brand sells the more bad ones will be out there.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can fix autometer gauges. Take the light out of the back, and put a screw driver in there, it should move the needle around. Just move it untill it zeros it self. My gauge looked like that at one point ^.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow does that really work? wont eff up the gauge?
maybe i'll c if I can do that on my spi gauge!

 

Autometers are fine. First try what the kid said about fixing the needle yourself w/ a screwdriver through the light hole... if that doesn't work, send it back and you'll get a new one.

Matt

 

Autometer Cobalt Series
I love mine.