i got my gauges in this morning from jeg's ... i open up the package and the boost gauge is not even on 0? ill try to get pics later but... the lil square that the needle is suppose to be in for 0, its a lil past that almost to the 1psi dash??

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FOrSfEd &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it should be straight, just hook it up and it should be fine, mine was like that too but it worked.</TD></TR></TABLE>

so after you installed it, it read boost correctly? how far away from the sqaure was yours?

mines the... ultra lite
mechanical/30psi with vac


Modified by fafsa at 10:12 AM 12/15/2004

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fafsa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i got my gauges in this morning from jeg's ... i open up the package and the boost gauge is not even on 0? ill try to get pics later but... the lil square that the needle is suppose to be in for 0, its a lil past that almost to the 1psi dash??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I feel u man, mine does the same thing. So if u can live with it, just count 1 less psi everytime u watch the gauge, lol.

 

it should be straight, just hook it up and it should be fine, mine was like that too but it worked.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fafsa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i got my gauges in this morning from jeg's ... i open up the package and the boost gauge is not even on 0? ill try to get pics later but... the lil square that the needle is suppose to be in for 0, its a lil past that almost to the 1psi dash??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta love the uneducated H-T class of '04:

I've said it a million times but since people still complain here is some documentation DIRECTLY from autometer's website...

"We get a lot of questions about this. Here is the reason, along with some specifics for each product. Most of the electric instruments that we offer use what is called an air core meter. In layman's terms, this means there is no physical part to hold the pointer where it sits, or to force it back to zero when power is removed. It uses an electrical charge to return to zero when power is applied, and when a signal is fed to the instrument, the pointer will indicate the proper reading. This is normal, and no cause for alarm. The unit is not damaged or broken, it just doesn't look like most other instruments out there. For Example: The pointers, on most modern OE (original equipment) gauges, just hang there when power is removed. We use air core movement due to its rapid response characteristics, so when you stomp on the accelerator, the pointer is capable of showing you exact engine RPM.

On some other gauges, such as the pyrometers or EGT gauges, sit off zero, too. But, even after you connect them and turn the power on, the pointer still doesn't go back to zero. What gives? Well, provided the gauge is connected to its probe, it will show the ambient air temperature. So, unless it is zero degrees F outside, it will not read zero. For example, if your vehicle has sat for a long period of time (allowing the engine to completely cool) the gauge will accurately reflect the outdoor temperature when power is applied. If the outdoor temperature is 70 degrees, the gauge will read 70 degress."

 

yeah thats the same one I have, I can't remmber how far mine was but I really wouldn't worry about it until you hook it up.

 

i bought the same gauge for my car and it read 5psi when not hooked up. There are even many posts on here about people with the same problem with autometer. I took that junk back and got a VDO gauge. It never reads off at all and it cost me much less than the autometer.

 

A mechanical gauge should read 0psi, electronic gauges doesn't really matter. This guy said it was a mechanicle gauge, so I would return it.

 

yep, mechanical should read zero. send it back to them, all you have to pay is shipping, which kinda sucks, because you just did that.

 

i dont think they will take it back if i try to hook it up? will they?

i mean, now that its on a completely flat surface and i have my contacts on, the needle is pointed just a hair away from the outside of the square. but i mean shouldnt it be closer to the middle??

 

they will take it back. My friend bought one from a guy on here, and the needle completely feel off. HE sent it back to autometer, and they are fixing it and sending it back. For like $15 shipping both ways.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93turbo16 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they will take it back. My friend bought one from a guy on here, and the needle completely feel off. HE sent it back to autometer, and they are fixing it and sending it back. For like $15 shipping both ways.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, but im pretty sure it'd take a while until you see the gauge again. i dunno since its hair outside of the lil square, tough call

 

Mine always goes back to 0psi after I shut the car off, but it is a DEFI.

 

should i just hold off on my MBC installation and run it with your wg spring and see how accurate it is? will this work or no

 

I had the same problem when i purchased my boost gauge. It read 2-3 lbs. boost with no hose attached... so instead of paying for more shipping i removed the light socket on the back and very gently pushed on the copper tube inside the gauge.. if u move the tube it will move the needle. it took 5-6 trys but now it reads dead center of the 0 box boost and vaccum are both accurate... everytime i turn the engine off the needle goes to 0.. i just didn't want to wait and wait and pay more for a another gauge that my be the same way... just my 2 cents.

 

I went through a couple of Autometer boost gauges before I finally just gave up, returned the last one to Summit and bought a Defi D gauge. They're not that expensive. Jegs should have a similar return policy if you're not satisfied.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fafsa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">should i just hold off on my MBC installation and run it with your wg spring and see how accurate it is? will this work or no</TD></TR></TABLE>

will it?

 

The autometer boost gauge isn't exact... I always have just accepted the fact that it gives a reading of right "about" how much boost you're running

Mine sits @ 1psi sometimes, but sometimes it doesnt. It changes with elevation, depending on whether i'm home or at school.

Matt

 

I have never had a problem with any autometer gauges at all niether has anyone else i know.

 

i called him them and they said it will work fine after i install it, so i guess ill see what happens

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by black98gsr-t &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I had the same problem when i purchased my boost gauge. It read 2-3 lbs. boost with no hose attached... so instead of paying for more shipping i removed the light socket on the back and very gently pushed on the copper tube inside the gauge.. if u move the tube it will move the needle. it took 5-6 trys but now it reads dead center of the 0 box boost and vaccum are both accurate... everytime i turn the engine off the needle goes to 0.. i just didn't want to wait and wait and pay more for a another gauge that my be the same way... just my 2 cents. </TD></TR></TABLE>

anyone else know if this will work? or is there any other way? and is my wg spring a good idea to check the accuracy?

 

Have you read the instrtuctions? On my Pro comp fuel pressure gauge I think all the autometer mechanical gauges have it. There is a screw for adjustment to let rapped air out of the gauge it tells you what to do so have a look. It will save me typing.

 

yeah they should have a screw to adjust like turbozxi said

 

Only 1 psi out? Damn your lucky mine used to read 4psi high. Though it boosted 1 psi high from new.....

 

1 month old. atm-4301 mechanical autometer boost gauge. this morning the calibration went wayyyyy off. reading 10 vac while the car is off. it always read 0...but now i afraid to boost my car. i was boosting and flooring, yet the gauge reached a maximum of 4 or 3mmHG. haha, autometer boost gauge sucks.. time for a DEFI boost gauge.

 

I've never had a problem with mine. I had one in my mustang and one in my car now and it works fine.

 

you can fix autometer gauges. Take the light out of the back, and put a screw driver in there, it should move the needle around. Just move it untill it zeros it self. My gauge looked like that at one point ^.