d16z6Tcrx

ive been reluctant to start a build thread for a while now for different reasons, but now i just wanna have something to show the progress ive made over the years. so lets start from the beginning.

my white eg that i had for many years, started it all for me.
my single cam build in 07





i spent alot of money on this build and make alot of mistakes. it was my first so that was a given. but i learned from it and moved on. the motor ended up spinning a bearing. i rebuilt it then parted it out. eventually i started another build and went dual cam.





stock gsr swap w/ skunk 2 manifold on s300. ran a best 13.8@100. i knew i was gonna boost it so i started looking for a kit. got a good deal on a kit slapped it on the stock motor and took it to get tuned by felix "Gato" here in nj.





car made great power and was crazy fast but ran like ****. rich as a pig, stalling and boost creep. i knew nothing about tuning and couldnt fix it. i couldnt afford to have it retuned and eventually melted a piston. best time in it was 11.7@117

after that i fell on hard times and had to sell it. eventually i got back on my feet and started over again. with a coupe this time. my goal was to not worry about cosmetics. i just wanted to go fast. also i started reading books on tuning and took a few classes.





again started with a stock gsr. best time was 14.2@98

then i bought this from jesse @jdl auto design along with a pte6262 .63 a/r




fast forward a bit. i pieced the rest of the kit together and street tuned this myself.





93 coupe (2370lbs with driver)
bone stock internal jdm b18c1
JDL auto twin scroll bottom mount manifold
twin tial 38 mvs gates 9psi springs
percision 6262 .63
ksports
ebay clutch
stock axles NO LSD!!!!
24.5x9 M/T
hondata s300 tuned by me and only me
93 oct pump gas

i got pretty good at running the 11.50 index out here and had the car dialed pretty good.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1322569803485

this car ran so well. after 15-20 mid/low 11.xx passes and figuring out the boost by gear i felt as if i had enough to shoot for a ten second pass.




after the season ended i wanted to build a motor and shoot for 9s right away. but then i wanted to clean up the appearence. after looking at how bad a shape the coupe body was in i came across a killer deal on a mint ek hatch. so with this started my last and final makeover and chassis change.



right away i started with building the motor
jdm b18c1
ls crank
eagle rods
supertech 10.5:1 pistons
supertech springs and retainers
type r cams
gsr trans obx lsd
comp stage 3 clutch







i was keeping the same turbo kit that was on the coupe. and decided to break the motor in on boost.






here was me starting it up for the first time.





street tuned again then driven up to see the man Miller in long island.






once again miller never fails. pump gas numbers were:
9 psi wastegate 310whp
13 psi 389whp
16psi 449whp

race gas
18psi 485whp
21psi 549whp

http://s772.photobucket.com/albums/y...=VIDEO0017.mp4

we had to stop there do to the clutch slipping and running out of fuel. we are pretty sure at 28/30 psi it would have been in the 650+whp range.

came home and change out the clutch which only had 1100 mile on it and found this



so i went back to old faithful ebay stage 4.


went to the track on pump gas and 23 inch slicks


on 18 psi it went 11.0@134 hitting the limiter @ the 1000ft mark. it was a really crappy pass with a 1.7 60ft and 4.9 330. this clutch didnt slip completely but we could see in the logs it was on and off.

my schedule changed at work so i couldnt hit the track as much and i needed to buy a twin disc. so now with the track closing and winter coming i decided to make some changes.

i was always self conscious of the .63 back housing on the 6262. i got it due to it being street driven and i wanted great spool but the difference in spool between the .63 and the .83 is minimal. but the .82 would allow less back pressure better flow especially with the manifold im using. but here was the issue. the .82 housing was gonna run me about $250 new and i couldnt find a used one. now the 6765 and 6766 were being sold for around $850/925. so what to do...??? i sold the 6262. also with it i sold the pte 1000s.

so here are the new changes needed to help reach my goal of a 9sec pass and keep heat and drive it daily.

pte 6766 .82 t3
pte 1600cc
walbro 400lph
twin disc

along with some other little changes. ill be updating this daily. thanks for looking.

Casey

iTrader: (5)

nice numbers so far. id get a 6266 with a divided housing to take advantage of your manifold.

Blove1991

Very nice progress throughout the years!

LightningTeg

Thats normal for pucked clutches to do that. My 3 year old, 25,000 mile ACT XTG6 clutch with a 400-500whp setup looked the same but felt fine

Evo1

Really no good options for divided t3...

Looks good..hope to see some 9's

LS AzZkIkr

I haven't seen a divided t3 housing but if there is one this is what I would do if I had your manifold. You would get the nice spooling characteristics and big top end power from the larger/better turbocharger.

d16z6Tcrx

thanks jesse! i shot you a pm.

there isnt one that i seen. i got the manifold like this to help with boost control. i had a problem with my top mount having boost creep. in this manifold i can hold 4psi no problems.

i should be ordering the turbo by the weekend. want to get all my xmas shopping done first.

92frostwhtdb2

nice build ,what suspension do you have on the hatch?

d16z6Tcrx

as of now the car is on all four jack stands. i took the suspension out in hopes of replacing it. i would really like to get another set of ksports but if these dont sell i just keep them alil longer. they are skunk2 coilovers on kyb agx struts.




the car came with arp wheel studs and afew on the right front were loose. now being this is my first ek i didnt know they were pressed on. now that the car was parked i decided to take a stab at replacing them the old fashion way. i took a 23mm socket and a hammer while it was stall assembled and after a few hits it came right out. the loose studs fell right out. i beat the remaining one out then installed the new ones with a few large washers and a open lug nut. once all the studs were in i removed the spindle from the car, placed the axle thru the backside of the spindle, placed the hub on the top and gently tapped it thru until the axle nut threads were showing. i then placed the axle nut on and tighten it down with my impact gun.





next up was to remove the trans and clutch. i thought i was having trans issues because it was hard shifting fast to the next gear with the comp clutch. i drop the trans a few times not looking at the clutch and couldnt find the problem. with the ebay clutch the problem went away. ill be opening the trans one more time to make sure everything is ok. i dont plan on doing it again.






once the clutch was out i inspected it and found this.:




you can see a few cracks in the presure plate. only on the one side. not sure what caused this but im sure it isnt good.

it gets pretty cold up here in jeresy and being that the garage isnt insulated i picked up a propane heater. This thing works!! best $100 ive spent all year. gets me sweating in the shop in a matter of minutes on its lowest setting.


i also needed a bigger catch can. the one i had would fill up quick and overflow. i dont like the idea of draining back into the motor. i have no problem dumping it. so i bought a new one my friend makes and sells for cheap. only thing is it isnt baffled and im only using 2 ports. so ill buy caps fot the bottom ports and i believe ill use steel wool or shop rags stuffed inside. ideas?

me painting the new one.




now here is where input is needed. currently im using jdm type r cams. these cams are known to make power well beyond what i am doing. but i would like a bigger cam. seeing that im going to a bigger turbo i feel as if a bigger cam may help. plus ive been using them for the last 5yrs and i know what they do in the car and how they perform. the idea of a new cam sparks interest in learning the difference in performance and also tuning. ive been looking into the blox type b cams. on several builds they made more power over the ctr/itr cams with similar spool and idle like stock. and they only cost $425 new. i am open to suggestions but please dont suggest junk 2 cams. i am not a fan. if you havent notice this is somewhat of a budget build and i know i can do more with less.

B20vEf9

You call Skunk2 cams junk, but then refer to blox b's which if I'm not mistaken are tuner 2 replicas lol

http://marketplace.honda-tech.com/sh...9&postcount=44

d16z6Tcrx

but they are not skunk 2 cams are they? see unlike you i dont believe the hype. there are plenty of ways to go fast without using skunk 2 cams.

glad you decided to stop thru my thread though. stay awhile you might learn something!

kyden

i don't get that either, lol. you say junk2.. then you mention blox in the same sentence. right.

d16z6Tcrx

Junk2 is just how i refer to skunk2. Its not my overal opinion of the products itself. Yes they do work well in certain setups. But are they the best on the market? No. They are just they industry standard aka "bandwagon" and i refuse to be cliche.my whole tuner experience has been based off breaking industry standards. Doing things people swore couldnt be done and using products others would neglet because they were deemed "cheap or knock off". This here proves anything used properly can n will work.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Meh. Not really. I remember when myself and Tony The Tiger did a test with any of the .78A/R T3 divided housing setups LONG TIME AGO (only a couple available... None for a 6262 and DEFINITELY none for a 6766, and we found that it was mediocre. With of course the turbine wheels being equal, we came to a consensus that it was a bit more responsive than a .82A/R Open housing, but not so much compared to a .63A/R open housing. I personally use the same manifold that is being used here from JDL Auto Design, except with a single 38mm wastegate on a TR3030R .63A/R, and the manifold is VERY WONDERFUL.. So, I believe d16z6Tcrx will find more benefits from a the larger exhaust wheel than he would have any .82A/R housing regardless. The fact that he went .82A/R was wise only because the car will no long see the street at all. So in this instance he did fine here.

Otherwise, I never put .82A/R exhaust housings on those kinds of turbos if there is a larger exhaust wheel available to fit into the .63A/R and its intended to have at least some street use (mainly on Honda B and K series). Only for drag strip only purposes is a .82A/R really necessary.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^I like this guy.. he makes me laugh.. ;-)

You get a JDL auto design twin gated manifold, then cry "budget"..

Have you tried the Web Cam series? They make a spectacular camshaft for larger mid-framed sized units like yours. Used them on a few setups, and were nice indeed.

Here.. use the specified search lists to get to Acura B18C setups.

http://www.webcamshafts.com

d16z6Tcrx

It is budget. I got the manifold combo from jesse already coated for wayyyyyyyy under cost. It was a steal and a half to say the least.

I have looked into web cams. Ive talked to sheepy about a perticular set but they are still alot of money and out of my budget.

B20vEf9

This has nothing to do with hype.

No they are not Skunk 2 cams, but if they have the absolute same profile you really aren't trying anything new you are just using a different brand that copied the original you don't want to use, because you aren't trying to be on the "bandwagon"

Looks to me you are still on the bandwagon then.

If that's the case then you need to try something like Pro 2's, Pro 3's, etc.. A cam that I've read "won't work", but I've never saw reasons why. Hey, but we already know no matter what I say you are going to argue with me or try to fight me no matter if what I say makes sense or not.

d16z6Tcrx

Im not gonna beat a dead horse with you. You dont have to understand or get it. I could care less.

B20vEf9

I completely understand, and get it. You clearly are the one that doesn't get it, because you think you are above me.

You say you don't want to be on the Skunk2 hype bandwagon, because you want to be different, and not use the hype ****, blah blah blah, etc...

The Blox B is a Tuner 2 copy, has the same profiles, so you aren't trying anything new at all. They are just cheaper, and made by Blox. I also know people using Blox B's, because they know Blox B's work since Tuner 2's work. It doesn't take a rocket science to figure it out.

If I copy Skunk2 Pro 1 specs, and have a custom cam made they are still the same specs, so it's nothing new.

m3tech95

As far as the build goes....good stuff great to see self builder/tuners making progress...I am about to begin that process of assembling motors myself & will likely hit u up for advice...

One question i had though was which headgasket did you decide to go with once you threw in pistons and rods?

Do-Work

iTrader: (1)

nice progress

d16z6Tcrx

Oem always. Havent failed me yet. Arp headstuds. Also gsr girdle and stock main bolts. Crank was also balanced up to 11k. I only reved to 9k with the 6262 but i think im gonna need more rpm with the 6766.

d16z6Tcrx

Thank you

Furyof4

Good to see a local tearing it up.

Props on the build and times.

boostinlow

sweet build man.