I run this mani and had no issues

http://www.pfabrications.com/inc/sdetail/258

I did remove my AC though because the way the 15G sat and the downpipe would not clear unless I had another downpipe made. This was more of my issue then the mani though. They do sell others, but if you call them they are great.

 

I'm talking about the spooling performance, I saw it in their website, they asking 650$! that is the same price like here.

Your prices (USA, Europe) are usually cheaper from here.



I thought to use a 3' but i already bought a friend's 2.5' maybe later i will change it.

i'm keeping the A/C, in the future i'll mount it back.


Hey MalcolmV8, why don't you install the turbo backward ?

i mean that you put the EXT close to the tranny, and the intake close to the timing.

(sorry about my poor english...)

 

Yup it's the Quick 4 AC unit. $650 plus shipping for it. Since I'm not using it I'll let it go for $450 if someone wants it.

Humm I'll try that. I know I tried it on some of the other manifolds and it didn't fit. I'll try on this latest one I'm using and see how it fits.
Don't worry about the english man, you're doing great. I know we'd all struggle in another language.

 

the dust and dirt will damage the blades of the turbo. Its called "dusting"


i dont even want to point out the irony here

 

Thx man, but still to rich for me at the moment, only the shipping is gonna kill me [=

anyhow, if you flip the turbo and of course change the DP, i'm sure it will fit!



anyway,

got my clutch yesterday ,

took a stage 4 "Clutch Net" clutch.

and trying to find a nice wastegate or a 3 gauge combo to buy.

if you guys have any suggestions please tell me.. [=

 

hey bro when you installed the pistons and rods, did you need to grind or something the cylinder to make it fit with the eagle rods.. bcoz im gana build my motor too.. thanks

 

Hi man,

Yes I did. like you see here (if you zoom in ) you will see that i grind the bottom (front and back) of the block and the "bridge" that comes on the crankshaft (dont know how it's called in english.. but you see theme both in this pic..



Best of LUCK.

anyway, i ordered my Defi Boost&EGT gauges today

and my friend from the US will send me a TurboSmart 38mm Wastegate.

Wideband i'll an AEM one, and all that is left to do is to wait for my dear friend #Racepak to make me a miniram manifold...

 

with Eagle rods you need to notch the girdle, with fjr i-beams some people have gotten away with notching just the block

 

i am using a prelude slave cylinder on mine works just fine....you just need to hog out one hole about 1/8 of an inch....gave me the clearence to stuff an hx35 down in the engine bay....

also i have aluminum window screen doubled up over the turbo inlet....it would not be possible for me to make an intake....i thought about the flexable dryer hose but the way it sits in there i would have to compress part of it and i was worried in higher rpms that it could colapse it and then suck it in

as for gauges if your boosted you NEED a wideband, oil pressure, and boost gauge at minimum, i also tossed on a water temp gauge for safe measure, you have no idea how many times my stocker said i was fine and i look and im at 220f

 

my top priority is boost, egt and widebend.

after that i'll add an oil pressure one.

this week i hope to install the engine.. (:

 

Looking good,

but.... building a engine outdoors never helped

NVM. i'm sure my manifold wil make up for all this

 

next time i'll build a sealed room like a bunker, like yours (:

 

and also we needed some fresh air.. (:

 

OK, yesterday I installed the engine.















OEM tranny oil

a regular engine oil (preston 10-40) and a 5$ oil filter just for the first 1000km that will grab all the dirt.

after that i will change it to the good stuff.


and must give my dear friend Eliran (6 pic) that Replaced the oil dipstick location (ZC oil pump ) and for ALL the help (:

next up is adjusting the FMIC piping and cutting the F-bumper so the cooler will fit.

that's all for now, will keep updating

 

r u fo real? replacement oil filter?

 

YEP!!! the best way to go 1000km

 

Looking good! I'm building my motor outside too :D you can't make good power without dust!

 

dust or no dust, the engine work's and run perfectly fine.

you do not need a lab to close an engine.

 

Hello,

finished my 1000km run, replaced the oil with Agip oil 10-60 fully synthetic, and to a OEM pil filter.

now waiting until my fabricator will make me a mini-ram mani, adjust the downpipe, and that's it..!

[=

 

sorry for not updating for a long time..

my car now r tuned on only 16psi and have no traction on 3rd.. need better tires [=

will keep updating