m0sad

Hello everyone.

D16Y8 engine - EJ8.

have almost all the parts!

1. Garrett T3 60-1 JB with .48AR
2. ramhorn/miniram manifold (did not decided wich one yet)
3. Greddy FMIC (big)
4. RC750cc injectors
5. wastgate 38mm - need to buy (tial or turbosmart)
6. AEM fuel regulator
7. 255LPH walbro
8. 2.5' downpipe and exhaust pipe
9. king bearings rods and crank
10. ARP head studs
11. AEM EMS
12. CP pistons 75.5 (9.0 comp)
13. Eagle Rods
14. Z6\ZC crank

need to buy:
wastegate
BOV


stock sleevs
stock head

want to get 300-350whp (mustang dyno not dynopack) on 25PSI
pump gas.


can it be done ?

Any help or comment is more then welcome !

thx and sorry about my English.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Aren't these the kinds of questions you need to answer BEFORE you even buy anything? I don't know. Maybe that's just me.

m0sad

lol..

im not a noob man, I meant to ask if you think it is possible to get 350WHP ?

I know I have good parts, but it is good to ask .. Dont you think so?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I repeat; you should have been able to answer this question before you bought a single part.

m0sad

my answer is YES !

i cant understand why you cant write your opinion ?

i think i can get even 400whp at 30psi! but that is my opinion.

i came here to hear what the expert's think...

got it now ? or should I simplify it for you more?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

better get a oil pump port or shim with that set up or

sdobson910

I dont think that turbo will reach 350 let alone 400whp.

Fnix

iTrader: (1)

Isnt 60 trim too large for the engine?

m0sad

Iתm aware of that, this month I take the engine off and Iתll do it

the turbo is good for 550hp by garrett. so 350whp is OK.

400.. not for now..

it is almost the same as GT3076R..

the exhaust is 48 and the CH is 72.

almost..

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

Gonna be a lil laggy I bet.

m0sad

lol.. it will.

i hope it will keep the boost all the way and not lose it on high rpm's...

m0sad

Hello guys,

Okay, I know it was a long time since my last update, but there were some delays.

Anyway, I removed the engine, dismantled, sent for gouging (75.5mm)

And of course cleaning and full restoration of the engine head (STD)


























What wrong here?? lol














I replaced the original Y8 crank to ZC.

Also changed the oil pump to ZC (with porting ofcourse)

we needed to replace the karter to a ZC one, and the oil pump pickup as well.

then we findout that we don't have a place for the Dipstik, so we drilled a hole in the block were is the original hole is in the ZC motors.

we will do the final adjusments when we will mount the engine and fill it with oil.


anyhow, got myself a Greddy type RS bov...

all I left is AEM fuel regulator and WG.

will keep updating!!

MalcolmV8

Is the Z crank a direct swap or did you have to make any changes for it to fit? Looking good.

sde780

Direct swap.

I made 235wp on a Garrett T3 60 trim at 8 psi. The turbo's good for 300-ish whp. Full boost at 4500 rpm on my stock Y8, using 2.5" downpipe and ebay cast manifold

MalcolmV8

Which ebay manifold? I've been through 4 manifolds. All four sit the intake of my turbo where it interferes with the clutch slave. Major pain in the butt. I'm trying to make the one on the very right of this pic work as it's the closest thing I have to fitting.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Don't quote but I could have sworn I saw a thread where someone used a Prelude slave to get around the fitment issue.

MalcolmV8

Yeah that's what everyone says but they are so similar it makes no difference really. I've already swapped that. It was a PITA because the bolt holes didn't line up the same and I had to slot one of them. So I've tried both slaves with little success.
If the manifold positions the turbo intake pointing right at the slave then no matter what slave you use you have an issue. It may be that I needed to use a different turbo? I started with an ebay turbo and everyone says "oh that's your problem" so I purchased the expensive 5431 precision turbo which is supposed to be a great starter turbo from what I read on here but it's the same issue fitment wise as the ebay turbo.

Stock civic slave is on the bottom, accord/prelude slave is on the top.

sde780

None of those 4



My wastegate is on the #4 runner. I had an exhaust shop make an intake for my turbo...it's close to the slave cylinder but doesn't hit. It's not much of an intake anyways - just a flange with 3" pipe welded to it, with a screen at the end. No filter because I can't fit one, it hits the slave cylinder

MalcolmV8

LOL story of my life. A screen is fine for a race car but mine's a street car that will see a ton of driving. I have to have a filter.

sde780

And MalcomV8, I put 12k miles on my setup with NO issues at all using just a screen. It's my DD and I boost it everyday - I drive in dusty conditions as well. My shaftplay hasn't increased noticeably compared with when I first got the turbo...

MalcolmV8

Glad it's working out for you. With the screen I'd be more worried about the engine than the turbo been damaged but glad to hear yours is ok for now.

Apparently the manifolds with the waste gate on a single cylinder runner is a big no no. Do you have any issues with boost creep?

Great to hear you've been boosting that long with no issues. How many pounds of boost do you run?

Also did you tune it yourself? or have info on the tune? I'm tuning mine myself with a hondata s300 and any guide lines with amount of timing vs boost etc. would be great

sde780

If it sucks in anything, the compressor blades will chop it up/be damaged. I'm not worried about my engine, several friends have run it this way for years.

No issues with boost creep. 9 psi. I had someone tune it for me on Crome - would recommend a dyno tune.

Enough jacking of this guy's thread, if you have more questions PM me

m0sad

Perfect fit like he said (-;

btw, sde780, 4500 full boost? I also will use a 2.5' DP, and in hope that my dear friend will make me a miiram manifold. did u use Chrome? AEM?

MalcolmV8 - I see you have one, is it stailnesssteal ? from ebay?

MalcolmV8

I was thinking fine dust that's gonna eat away at your rings/pistons and what ever else in the engine.

My manifolds from left to right
Spoolin Performance
Ebay special
go autoworks
go autoworks

I believe the first and 4th ones are indeed stainless. Center two are cast.

sde780

Yup, 3rd gear. I'd go 3" for better spool, originally wanted to keep a/c but that didn't work out

I used Crome, but I hear Neptune is better. Or if you're baller go Hondata.