(d16y7+automatic+sedan)boost=
yeah, the title pretty much says it all. triple bitch 
I'll say this right now. I know being on the net opens me to flames and people opinons, but off the bat, I don't give a ****. I know I don't drive a race car. I've been to the track once as a personal joke, and I might go one more time if I pull this off, so I have some numbers.
with that out of the way, here's my idea:
I drive a 1996 civic lx sedan that just hit 90k. Previous owner babied it, everythings great. Right now Its just cosmetic mods, and stereo work. My goal with this is just a nice all-around, functional car.
I'm just torn between staying mostly N/A in a b16 (maybe juice it to beat stangs, since half my city owns them) or going boost in the y7.
if I indeed work up the d16, I'll do so with these:
- skunk2 d16 IM ($300)
- KMS d16 throttle body ($200)
- whatever turbo kit is available (probably Greddy's kit
), or maybe go custom. I wish Apexi still made theirs.... (~$1500)
- FMIC (~$300-$500)
- upgraded fuel management (DMS 450cc's, SMC, Fuel rail/pump) (~ $300-$500)
- supra piston/b16 rod combo (heard its great for boosted d's, and it lowers compression a tad, too
) ($500)
- tranny cooling kit (dunno on that one, I might not even **** with it)
- Apexi WS exhaust ($400)
- lots-0-tuning
I'm figuring maybe 160hp or so on 8-10psi daily driven. and at worst, I'm spending $4000 on everything I need, which is about the same for the b16.
I'll swap a manual if my auto breaks, but I rather stay auto. Its nice being able to handle turns with both hands on the wheel. Allows me to grab the car by the *****, instead of it being vice-versa.
Please feel free to correct me. I'm still a little ignorant of the whole engine tech thing. But keep in mind I'm not a moron. Just under-informed.
As for the turbo unit itself, I was thinking something ball-bearing, like the apexi kit, to keep spool time down. Any suggestions on that? My other thought was a t3/t4 unit, but I think they take till about 4k for hard boost? dunno.
TIA

I'll say this right now. I know being on the net opens me to flames and people opinons, but off the bat, I don't give a ****. I know I don't drive a race car. I've been to the track once as a personal joke, and I might go one more time if I pull this off, so I have some numbers.
with that out of the way, here's my idea:
I drive a 1996 civic lx sedan that just hit 90k. Previous owner babied it, everythings great. Right now Its just cosmetic mods, and stereo work. My goal with this is just a nice all-around, functional car.
I'm just torn between staying mostly N/A in a b16 (maybe juice it to beat stangs, since half my city owns them) or going boost in the y7.
if I indeed work up the d16, I'll do so with these:
- skunk2 d16 IM ($300)
- KMS d16 throttle body ($200)
- whatever turbo kit is available (probably Greddy's kit
), or maybe go custom. I wish Apexi still made theirs.... (~$1500)- FMIC (~$300-$500)
- upgraded fuel management (DMS 450cc's, SMC, Fuel rail/pump) (~ $300-$500)
- supra piston/b16 rod combo (heard its great for boosted d's, and it lowers compression a tad, too
) ($500)- tranny cooling kit (dunno on that one, I might not even **** with it)
- Apexi WS exhaust ($400)
- lots-0-tuning
I'm figuring maybe 160hp or so on 8-10psi daily driven. and at worst, I'm spending $4000 on everything I need, which is about the same for the b16.
I'll swap a manual if my auto breaks, but I rather stay auto. Its nice being able to handle turns with both hands on the wheel. Allows me to grab the car by the *****, instead of it being vice-versa.
Please feel free to correct me. I'm still a little ignorant of the whole engine tech thing. But keep in mind I'm not a moron. Just under-informed.
As for the turbo unit itself, I was thinking something ball-bearing, like the apexi kit, to keep spool time down. Any suggestions on that? My other thought was a t3/t4 unit, but I think they take till about 4k for hard boost? dunno.
TIA
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SirSmokeAlot »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
a b16 (maybe juice it to beat stangs, since half my city owns them) </TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind of stangs are in your city that would fall to an automatic B16 on a little squirt?
a b16 (maybe juice it to beat stangs, since half my city owns them) </TD></TR></TABLE>
what kind of stangs are in your city that would fall to an automatic B16 on a little squirt?
I say swap it. I like my D16a6 but given the proper finances I'd ditch it for a Bseries.
(two cams+5spd) > (sohc+auto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what kind of stangs are in your city that would fall to an automatic B16 on a little squirt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he was talking about the D being auto. I would hope no one would put an auto on a B16.
(two cams+5spd) > (sohc+auto)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what kind of stangs are in your city that would fall to an automatic B16 on a little squirt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think he was talking about the D being auto. I would hope no one would put an auto on a B16.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluboy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I say swap it. I like my D16a6 but given the proper finances I'd ditch it for a Bseries.
(two cams+5spd) > (sohc+auto)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, swap would be a bit more difficult. I'm not a good saver, and the bonus of going fi on the y7 would be putting it togeather over time.
but then there's the uncertainty factor. That, and the y7 is the bitch of the d16's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think he was talking about the D being auto. I would hope no one would put an auto on a B16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're correct
(two cams+5spd) > (sohc+auto)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, swap would be a bit more difficult. I'm not a good saver, and the bonus of going fi on the y7 would be putting it togeather over time.
but then there's the uncertainty factor. That, and the y7 is the bitch of the d16's
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think he was talking about the D being auto. I would hope no one would put an auto on a B16.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you're correct
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Greyout »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of stangs are in your city that would fall to an automatic B16 on a little squirt?</TD></TR></TABLE>
mostly v6s. hehe, I'm sure even if I did go auto+b16+75shot, I could still beat them
not that I would....
mostly v6s. hehe, I'm sure even if I did go auto+b16+75shot, I could still beat them
not that I would....
Don't boost your auto tranny, take it from me (I'm on my third one). The first tranny was doomed from the begining because it was stock and I was running 10 lbs of boost but after that failure I decided to get one built for me. Now I have a fully built tranny and dss stage 2 axles as well as a tranny cooler and I already broke it once (using the stock axles, it destroyed my diff.). In any event, you should definatly consider swapping over to a manual before going into forced induction.
And actually, I am getting out of the whole boosted honda thing as soon as this tranny goes again so I can move on to a bigger and better motor... small block chevy and a weiland 8-71
EDIT: And by the way spool time is dependant on the flow of the turbo, not the size aspect.
And actually, I am getting out of the whole boosted honda thing as soon as this tranny goes again so I can move on to a bigger and better motor... small block chevy and a weiland 8-71
EDIT: And by the way spool time is dependant on the flow of the turbo, not the size aspect.
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