Hi guys,
i wanna ask you for a help,so i have 94 civic D15b7 engine with Z6 head, my pistons are D13b2(PM1G) ,D15b7 rods, D16Z6 Intake Manifold, and H22 Throttle Body.
I want to make my car with turbo. Can some one help me - what must change on my car to put turbo or i can put it on with this parts.
P.S. Sorry about my English but i am Bulgarian guy.

 

Well, Bulgarian guy, read the FAQ's sticky. All of your questions are answered there, and it's called the FAQ's sticky for a reason.

 

get a b16 engine...

 

I searched there but dont see anything helpful or anything like my problem
B-series sounds good. But want to make D15 with turbo. I don't want above 300 horsepower. I need around 180 - 200 HP on wheels. Because this car is "everyday car"

 

***Forced Induction Forum FAQ***

There's nothing special about your motor. Just treat it like any other VTEC engine. All of your questions are answered in that sticky.

 

same as all hondas B and D:

larger injectors, ecu remap or hondata, bigger map sensor, turbine (i recomend a used TD04-13G from a subaru wrx for your engine, but do the turbo-service before installation),
exhaust 60mm, ebay intercooler kit and better clutch....

for more info do as notaracist says

 

But my compression naow is around 12-12.5:1 and how much psi(bar) i can make on turbo . I thik first to buy vitara's piston and compression wil be aroun 9.0-9.5:1 and the more psi(bar)? Am i right or not.

 

Read the FAQ sticky.

 

use low compression pistons or a 3mm thick custom made head gasket

 

Ignore this person, they have no clue what they're talking about. Low compression for more boost is an antiquated mentality. With the tuning options available in today's world, there is absolutely nothing wrong with tuning a turbo car on raised compression. The only limit is the fuel you have available. There's a moderator here who was running something like 13:1 with turbo.

 

And iirc muckmans issue and catastrophic failure wasnt caused by the high compression, but his clearances being a bit too small for slinging his setup around.

High comp+boost=instant win in my book. 180-200 sounds like a reasonable goal for a high comp setup without being overly difficult to obtain. It just needs a solid tune and good fuel

 

His wrist pins bent.

 

I feel like this needs more explanation. Most piston mfg's will ship thinner wrist pins with their high compression pistons, because high compression NA motors want insanely lightweight components in the rotating assembly. Lighter wrist pin means thinner walls, thinner walls means weaker, weaker means too much pressure can literally bend them.

Keep your power goal reasonable, or get upgraded wrist pins when ordering your rotating assembly, and the only limit to high compression FI is the fuel you have access to (or are willing to pay for, if you're like me and can pick up a can of 110 5 minutes from home).

 

unless you didnt notice his car is N/A with OEM pistons and 12:1 CR (as he says)...

12:1 CR with turbo and OEM pistons at D15, it is gonna blow even by thought.
This guy has no money to put a b16 or B18 lamp, he will make a turbo setup with 12:1 CR at a d16? it is a BIG WAIST of money for D16... For 180-200 Hp that he wants and because he has allready 12:1 (as he says again),with a 2.5-3mm thick gasket he will be at 9.5-10:1 CR and can work a TD04-13G safely with his OEM pistons...

OEM pistons for turbo application can work no more than 10:1 CR...

Forged pistons (and rods) to the D15 can work no more than 11-11.5:1 CR...

 

See, there you go babbling again. With a good tune, the pistons can handle it. Past 200, the rods won't be happy, but the pistons will be fine. Assuming OP has access to a tuner that isn't writing with crayon, he can safely get his 200WHP goal.

 

I agree, there is absolutely no reason why op cant reach his goal. Stock pistons or not, 180hp is 180hp. At low comp or high comp the combustion pressures and temps will be nearly identical. The only difference will be his off boost response will be much better with the high comp pistons.

There are sometimes I wish people could be banned for spreading misinformation.

 

I thought after he found a bent wrist pin after a weird compression or dyno run that he tore the engine apart and replaced them with heavy duty pins, and the engine grenaded after that when the pistons hammered against the head and threw a rod.

 

we agree to disagree for the CR that he sould have....

no problem for me....

also, i dont know about the quality of the petrol in bulgaria....

 

so i suppose you recomend to this guy to install a turbine to his stock D15 engine and with 12:1 CR? And you are ok with that?

 

People have boosted 14:1 b series vtec motors without issue. however I will agree that his compression ratio is too high for stock internals with forced induction. you'd basically have to run race gas to even give the motor any chance of survival.

vitara pistons with stock length rods drops the compression ratio too low, around 7.4:1... You'd need to source custom length rods or man up and get a proper forged piston designed to work with a stock length rod.

225hp is the safe limit for d series rods, anything above that is asking for trouble and catastrophic engine failure. combine this with your already high static compression ratio and you have an even smaller margin for safe engine operation.

I don't know about the fuel quality in your country or how good your tuner is (if one even exists) but you would need the highest octane fuel commercially available and a very good tuner to even attempt this.

a thicker headgasket will obviously lower compression but people that use very thick gaskets have issues with proper cylinder head clamping and sealing. and you would need ARP headstuds regardless of what you choose.

I suggest you read the FAQs as repeatedly suggested and change your strategy a bit... either get another stock internal d15 block (i mean 100% stock, no changes to different OEM pistons or anything), get custom length rods and vitaras, or get proper forged internals.

the first option is the easiest and cheapest for the power you want. sell the high compression block to someone building an NA SOHC..

 

i agree to all...

exept one: if the thicker head gasket is well made and it is no thicker than 2.0-2.5 mm, it is ok and you will not need arp bolts, just stock bolts....

 

D series are notorious for head lifting under the slightest increase in cylinder pressures. the ARP studs are just a smart move regardless of power levels. you can never have too much clamping force to keep the head on the block.

for really high power builds the cosworth m11 studs are the way to go.. much better material than the ARP units and the larger diameter (doesn't require modifications) means more torque can be applied to the stud.

not to mention a new set of ARP headstuds are cheaper than sourcing new OEM bolts. and no OP, you cannot reuse the stock bolts