slowhitEJ1

if you wanna skip straight to the problem and skip the background info leading up to now, skip to paragraph 2

1.drove the car to lunch today, and didn't beat on it at all, didnt even hit boost, but for no reason, going through the parking lot, and for no reason, the cel came on and the car shut off.. then i started it back up, and parked, but the cel stayed on, so i jumped it and got no flashing...wtf?? so i went back to work, came out, and started the car, cel still on.. decided to slowly drive around the parking lot, everything seemed normal.. car didnt bog, revved fine, so i drove to dinner adn again, all ok.. on the way home the cel went out... ok wtf? went to pick up a friend tonight, came back on, but didn't die..

2. for those that didn't skip, sorry for the long story, but now whenever i put the car to ignition, before start, the fuel pump goes to prime, but instead the main relay just buzzes and squeels and does everything it shouldn't.. when i plug a stock P06 up, it primes fine, but obviously that's not going to run the car with my setup.. any help is GREATLY appreciated because i'm trying NOT to buy s300..

Atreidies

Who did your tuning?

ashb82

What ecu is it PO5 PO6 P28 P30 P72. Look to see what board it is also. If you can burn chips you could probably fix this. Also How long did you have this ecu in the car before this happen sounds like the ecu has some bad solder. if you are using a emulator or burner make sure you remove checksum and add data logger under the plug ins then under enhancements. I have also had to start a new tune and copy my map over to the new tune and change the setting to my old tune. I know this is not a good explanation i could show you better in person

civic_r87111

Sounds like a bad solider joint to me too, if u r also using the emulator the ribbon cable could b damaged. Solid CEL means something is wrong with the ecu physicly usually.

slowhitEJ1

a friend of mine put the basemap on the chip, it's a p28.. this ecu was in the car for about 1 day before it started doing this.. and i dont have any tuning hardware btw..

funny story btw.. limped it ~1 mile home last night when it did this again on a spare and virgin P06 and the car stared when i had the map plugged into my gm3 bar.. shut the car off cuz i remembered it was plugged in as opposed to the stock map, and it wouldn't start.. so i plugged it back into the 3bar and drove it home lol.. no cels or anything.. though ya'll would enjoy that, thought it was wierd..

civic_r87111

Well it will run on any maps just about but yes it will run really wierd because the voltage is gonna be way different. U only need to upgrade the stock MAP if ur going to b boosting over 10psi, if u didn't know. It's the solider joints or a broken connector or trace, I have been using Crome since 04 and never had any problems with the bin's. If u jump the service connector and the cel stays solid still it's the ecu, something is there isn't making good contact, have the person who chipped it look over all his work, probably a cold solider joint.

boosted k20

this happened to one car i was tuning. it turned out to be a bad burn on the chip. i reburned the map and the buzzing went away. ask ur friend to reburn you a new map

pauld

I've had this happen from a drop of water inside the ecu...didnt burn anything out, though. Also have had a "bad burn" that caused this.
Also had accidentally burned a chip for the wrong ecu type that did this too...

Could be a few different things, but check the obvious ones first, like did someone not latch down the ZIF socket lever? Is there any outside dirt/water in the ecu because of leaving the lid off? Are all the solder joints complete on the machine socket?