dc2turbo

Just wanted know if anyone else has read this?(Chilton manual)
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Crankcase emissions
Crankcase emissions are made up of water,acids,unburned fuel,oil fumes and particulates.These emissions are classified as hydrocarbons(HC)and are formed by small amounts of unburned,compressed air fuel mixture entering the crankcase from the combustion area(between the cylinder walls and piston rings)during the compression and power strokes.The head of the compression and combustion help to form the remaining crankcase emissions.
Since the first engines,crankcase emissions were allowed into the atmosphere through a road draft tube,mounted on the lower side of the engine block.Fresh air came in through an open oil filler cap or breather.the air passed through the crankcase mixing with blow-by-gases.The motion of the vehicle and the air blowing past the open end of the road draft tube caused a low pressure area (vacuum) at the end of the tube.Crankcase emissions were simply drawn out of the road draft tube into the air.
To control crankcase emissions,the road draft tube was deleted.A hose and or tube was routed from the crankcase to the intake manifold so the blowby emissions could be burned with the air/fuel mixture.However,it was found that intake manifold vacuum,used to draw crankcase emissions into the manifold,would vary in strength at the wrong time and not allow proper emissions flow.a regulating valve was needed to control the flow of air through the crankcase.
Testing,showed the removal of blow-by gases from the crankcase as quickly as possible,was most important to the longevity of the engine.Should large accumulations of blow-by gases remain in condense,dilution of engine oil would occur to form water,soots,resins,acids and lead salts,resulting in the formation of sludge and varnishes.This condensation of the blow-by gases occurs more frequently on vehicles used in numerous starting and stopping conditions,excessive idling and when the engine is not allowed to attain normal operating temperature through short runs.

Has any one thought about using a "draft tube" for vacuum?I don't know how well it would work being relative to the speed of the vehicle but it might work.Just wouldn't want it putting oil on the track or anywere else,maybe with a catch can it wouldn't.I don't think it would be a good idea to route the catch can to drain back to the block like the Endyne one because of the contaminants that the blow-by contains.If anyone has any input on the "draft tube"lets hear it,Pros-Cons,whatever.

dc2turbo

If you are wanting to use vacuum to vent the crankcase without using intake mani,intake pipe or exhaust why NOT try a draft tube?

Tchleung

People here alreayd do that with their exuast with the slant cut tube and check valve.

dc2turbo

does it produce any smoke out of the exhaust?BYW I was saying run a slash cut tube down so the air could pass by it when driving.


Modified by dc2turbo at 10:14 PM 12/14/2004

Tchleung

yeah I udnerstand what you are trying to say. I guess it really depends on the health of your engine and how much blowby is made.

dumpeDc2

this sounds like a good idea. but how would you set somthing like this up?

dc2turbo

I'm going to try a few things.I'll use my boost guage to see how much vacuum a tube will pull while driving,at different speeds and different size tubes.You could probably just go to one side of a catch can with it.Everyone has different opinions on this subject,I'm just looking for a better way.There are a lot of ways to vent the crankcase but I don't think we have nailed it just yet.

Tchleung

Here is my theory if you haven't read it already:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=935871

Basically this allows vacuum to pull the from the crankcase ALL the time. on even a stock NA setup. you have 0 vacuum at WOT... and when you jsut hook the vacuum to the turbos intake. you again. only have vacuum in boot and not at idle or out of boost. my setup allows vacuum 24/7. The only time when there is little vacuum or 0 is when your car is at WOT and the turbo is not spooling fats enoguh to create any vacuum pressure yet. Inputs please.

VTC_CiViC

That's looks like a win/win setup

djfob

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tchleung &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is my theory if you haven't read it already:

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=935871

Basically this allows vacuum to pull the from the crankcase ALL the time. on even a stock NA setup. you have 0 vacuum at WOT... and when you jsut hook the vacuum to the turbos intake. you again. only have vacuum in boot and not at idle or out of boost. my setup allows vacuum 24/7. The only time when there is little vacuum or 0 is when your car is at WOT and the turbo is not spooling fats enoguh to create any vacuum pressure yet. Inputs please.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just a thought......if there is too much vac in crankcase dont' you cause windage and isn't wot throttle where you really want to relieve crankcase pressure. I'm probably talking out of my ***.

RyanEJ8

I'm not too sure why everyone is so obsessed with having vacuum on the PCV. The vacuum is required on the crankcase to pull out the blow-by vapors because of the PCV valve. If you are running an open atmosphere setup you should remove the PCV valve and vacuum will no longer be required to ventilate the crankcase. The pressure will try to escape either way. Vacuum may slightly assist this, but I don't think it would make that big of a difference.

For my PCV setup I drilled out the PCV valve so that it is open all the time. Then I ran a hose from the stock oil separator out the bottom of the car to vent the blow-by to the open atmosphere. If it ends up leaking too much oil I may incorporate an aftermarket catch can. I have not seen much oil get into my intake manifold with the stock PCV setup so I doubt it will leak very much. I think the stock oil separator does a fairly decent job of catching the oil.