So I just boosted my car, had it on the road for a week just to get the alignment done and get the exhaust welded up and I already cracked a piston. I guess I got to throttle happy as I never driven a boosted car before and I was only running a basemap. What I'm not sure of is why my boost spiked to 18 PSI....:S I checked the wastegate and it is opening at 8 psi, so what else could it be?

Anyways, I'm not sure if I should just replace the one piston with rings, replace the bearings because coolant leaked down and scored them, replace all gaskets and get it back in the car..., or if I should just buy another b16 block and get it in the car. I don't want to spend to much money as I will be building a gsr next year and just want this one to get me by for the summer.

What would be the best way to go?

 

If the motor is stock, another short block.

Factory ringlands are very week to begin with, running a basemap and too much psi is gonna kill them everytime.

 

get tuned asap net time

 

just buy another b16.. whats the big deal? I see them for less than 500 all day.. If you would have been smart u could have used the 500 for a good tune instead of try top get your car running again

 

You've check that your waste gate opens at 8psi but do you know that your waste gate may STICK in which may account to the reason to why you get a boost spike. get a short block or new piston, get your cylinder rehoned and Get it tuned buddy.

 

Get some ebay pistons/rings for an LS, have them pressed on, re-hone your cylinders, and watch your freaking boost gauge 1st time out. Even a small turbo on a b20 won't overboost by 10psi in the half second it takes to react. It helps greatly if you EASE into boost - first 33% throttle, then 50%, 75%, 100%. If a lower level overboosts, you found a problem before creating another like you did before.

The main causes for spikes is because people want to be freaking cheap on their vacuum lines. I'd make money if I bet you didn't get a vac manifold, and likely are tee'ing off something such as the FPR for the WG and BOV. I've seen boost gauge needles bounce faster from 0-20-0 psi than a earthquake meter, all because they tee'd off all sorts of lines. Another cause is a sticking valve shaft in the WG - knock-off's are known for this btw. A severely ripped or pinched WG diaphragm can also cause this, as boost will never open the WG.

 

Tune it! It cracks me up how many people drive with just a base map and blow their motor.