alperx

Hi..
I bought a '98 civic EK with a cracked b16A2 engine.
I dont know the reason for the crack, though.
what's your idea ?

The sleeves are not original dartons, by the way. it's just something else.
The car was 318 whp when it was running.

Here's the photo :


Now I'm gonna rebuild and re-tune the engine - with original dartons.

here's the part list the car now has :

b16a2 block
81mm darton MID sleeves (not installed yet)
b18c1(stock) head with Kelford Turbo Cams & skunk2 cam gears
stock distributor & intake manifold
stock transmission with Blox LSD
wiseco pistons 81.5mm , eagle h-beam rods
acl race rod and main bearings
arp head studs & main studs
id 1000cc injectors, walbro 255 pump
hondata s300 ecu
revhard cast manifold
Garrett GTX3076R turbo w/82.a.r turbine
76mm downpipe & exhaust
Intercooler (2.5x10x18)
koyorad radiator & oem fan
tubosmart 38mm wastegate & blitz blow-off valve
aem methanol kit
competition clutch stage 4 clutch

----------------

my aim is minimum 400 WHP
the car will be used daily, too.

I can take all the advices from you - plus -
I need some advice on things I have no idea of :

1. what should be the piston-to-wall / ring clearances ?
2. is the stock ignition enough for this ?
3. is the revhard turbo manifold a problem ?
4. is the intake manifold a problem for this kind of turbo setup ?
5. is the stock fuel system with walbro 255 good enough ?
6. what is the max rev is the p72 head safe at ?
7. should I do anything with the transmission?

Thanks !

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

the sleeves in the motor are already Darton MIDs. just wondering but do you have any detail shots of the crack(s)?

myself and numerous other users on here have used Darton MID sleeves with great results, they are a very hard sleeve to break unless they were installed improperly

and you're 100% on a sleeve being cracked. not a ring or hg issue but a sleeve? because 318hp is nothing for Darton MIDs (hell stock sleeves support more than that) so it has me very curious, as it will others, how you cracked a Darton MID sleeve at such low power levels

unless it was tuned with excessive timing or it got a bad tank of gas, even then the piston should break before the sleeve

did the previous owner give you any info on what was happening when the motor let go?

alperx

you can see the crack in the second cylinder from the left. not a more detailed photo I have.

first of all : these are "darton-look" sleeves. - not original Dartons. it's not ductile iron - just typical cast iron.
he bought this car from another friend of mine, he says "the temp raised so I stopped".

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

yea its on the right side of that cylinder. odd place for it to crack though. There are a few differant reasons it could crack. would just be speculating without all the proper info. you could also do a CSS block if you can source a bare b16 block. it would be more cost effextive for your goal.

dcmatt

iTrader: (7)

also make sure you have the pistons checked good if your reusing them.

alperx

we checked the pistons, they're good. just bought a set of wiseco rings, that's all.

here is the cracked sleeve :

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

Who the **** buys fake sleeves?!?!?!?!?!?!?

frost_white_ej1

the noobs that don't know it's fake lolz!

to op take the block to a reputable machine shop with the darton install guide and let then measure out the block and see if the block is still within tolerance to accept the real darton sleeve, that will be your best bet or source out a new b16 block and start fresh again.

rich7777

Lol, I honestly never knew they existed. What next ???

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

Sheet metal pistons? Cast wrist pins?

alperx

yeah, I will take the dartons to a good machine shop of course.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

3d printed motor lol

what makes you think the old sleeves are fake? Darton doesn't exactly stamp their name everywhere

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

Honestly their fit and finish installed in the motor doesn't even look real. and the bottoms of the sleeve look pretty different.

frost_white_ej1

alperx

alright..
I have original dartons now - ready to be installed.

my aim is minimum 400 WHP
the car will be used daily, too.

I can take all the advices from you - plus -
I need some advice on things I have no idea of :

1. what should be the piston-to-wall / ring clearances ?
2. is the stock ignition enough for this ?
3. is the revhard turbo manifold a problem ?
4. is the intake manifold a problem for this kind of turbo setup ?
5. is the stock fuel system with walbro 255 good enough ?
6. what is the max rev is the p72 head safe at ?
7. should I do anything with the transmission?
(there's an S9B transmission in a shop around here - what do you think of it ?)

Thanks..

Thanks !

frost_white_ej1

1 really depend on you but I'm no expert in clearance so I'll let the turbo guru chime in on that one

2 i think stock ignition should be fine as i never experience myself because i always had an msd system to begin with but pretty confident the stock ignition should hold 400whp.

3 yes rev hard cast iron should be fine it cheap but get the job done eventually.

4 no not a problem stock manifold will hold fine just depend on how picky you want your power curve but you will need a better map sensor 3 or 4 bar map sensor that your tuning software will accept.

5 that 255 walboro is fine but you will need bigger injector.

6 in stock form no more than 8k, if built depend on alot of thing turbo, cam, headwork ect.....

7 again depend on alot of other thing i prefer b18c gsr gear ratio with a good quality mfactory lsd , good transmission fluid, good clutch act exedy clutchmaster, for axle just depend on how you drive really.

alperx

1 - ok I'll wait..
2 - ok - I wont touch the ignition
3 - thanks, how much power can differ between revhard & ramhorn after tuning ?
4 - ok, thanks, I have 4 bar hondata sensor
5 - that's ok, I have id1000 cc injectors.
6 - hmm.. there's no company doing proper headwork around here.. it's better not to touch maybe..
7 - I drive normally - if I go to drags in the weekends with semi-slicks, won't the stock axles be reliable ?

Hidenplanvew

I dont think the sleeves are fake, more of just another manufacture..

Discosteak

iTrader: (1)

Which would make them fake.

frost_white_ej1

3 a ramhorm will not spool as fast but will make up and pick up more power on top compare to the rev hard, for whatever the ramhorm make it will take the rev hard a little more psi to compare to it.

6 you can still get valve, spring, and retainer and 9k is possible depend on alot of other mod you decide to make that will effect whether or not if it will make power beyond.

7 depend on how you come off the line, if your always spinning tire or coming off the line easy their won't be much stress on the axle so stock is fine, if you got your car really dial in and it gripping as it should i would suggest buying stronger axle so again depend on how to drive or race it your own preference, or if your unsure just get stronger axle better safe than sorry.

alperx

3. ok.. approximately, what's the difference generally in a Honda ?
let's say.. at the same PSI, if with revhard is 350 whp, what can it be with a full-race ramhorn ?

6. do I need to change the valves and retainers for higher rpms ? or just springs are enough where the rest is OEM..

7. I have an S9B transmission with a factory Torsen LSD.
I also have a Y21 Transmission with an OBX-R LSD.
which one would you choose ?

if there's something to break with slicks, first thing to be broken is transmission or axles ?

if I change the axles with stronger ones, what's the next thing to be broken ?
Thanks !