Is there any way to tell if a cpu is fried?? I got one pretuned from pharable.net from my buddy who never finished his set up so i used it on mine (same exact set up).. theres a solid cell showing and it runs really weird... idle surging, bogging, etc. i opened it up and it looked fine like its not fried or anything... any idea 's?

 

is it solid when you jump the service connector ?

if you got a "pre-tune" sounds like you need to get it on a dyno and get a "real-tune"

 

Yeah its solid thats why im thinking its fucked... i dont want to bring it to a dyno if its blown and not going to be tubnable.

 

All of our ecus are tested in a running vehicle before being sent out to ensure that we send out units which are in 100% working order.

If you have a problem with the ecu & want us to look at it, feel free to contact me directly.

To check if your ecu is working properly, 1st, start the vehicle & look for a check engine light. If there is none, the unit is working properly.

If there is a check engine light, jump the 2 wire service connector using wire or a paper clip & see if the check engine light signal begins to flash.

 

Yeah im not a noob i know about this stuff, im a mechanic...im not saying you sent out a bad unit either... my friend could have ruined it who knows... all i was asking is if there was any way to know that the unit was good or bad for sure.. but i assumed so since when i jumped it for the codes.. it was just a solid light... but when i opened it up nothing looked fried or burnt out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by milllllkman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yeah im not a noob i know about this stuff, im a mechanic...im not saying you sent out a bad unit either... my friend could have ruined it who knows... all i was asking is if there was any way to know that the unit was good or bad for sure.. but i assumed so since when i jumped it for the codes.. it was just a solid light... but when i opened it up nothing looked fried or burnt out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just making sure you new how to check it

 

Ive seen a few ecu s get fried by people using peak and hold injectors (without a resistor box hooked up or hooked up wrong) on a saturated computer....this kid burned to ecu's doing that.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hotimportcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ive seen a few ecu s get fried by people using peak and hold injectors (without a resistor box hooked up or hooked up wrong) on a saturated computer....this kid burned to ecu's doing that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have seen people cook boards left & right by improperly installing their engine harness (crossing plugs) i.e. IAT and EVAP etc..

 

I thought i had the resistor box hooked up wrong too maybe.. but i did it by the DIY.. is there any way to check resistance with it hooked up? what type of numbers should i see if its working properly?

 

check your engine bay fuses.. had this issue with my car recently...
it starts up and all?????

 

yeah starts up runs weird and solid cell

 

Will the engine rev past 4,000 rpm? If not, then there's a problem with the chip that is in the ECU, or the chiping support components. If it won't rev beyond 4,000, find the J1 jumper. It right next to the chip. Cut that jumper, and then try it again. If it now revs past 4,000, you know for sure that the ECU itself is OK, and your attention needs to be focused on the chiping side of things.