sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

Aight, just a couple random questions for you guys that I cant seem to be decisive about..

Setup:
d16y8 boosted @ 7psi
tuned with Uberdata

1) Currently I have a 2.5" downpipe with a 2.5" high flow cat & im debating whether to get the thermal r&d 3" exhaust (obviously mod it to go 2.5" > 3" right after the flange) or get a 2.5" exhaust and stay constant the whole way? If you say 2.5", then what exhaust system would you recommend?

2) Knowing the ignition timing can be adjusted through uberdata...I have an adj. cam gear & ive searched, but haven't found solid info, but do I leave the adj. cam gear at 0? retard it (how much)? or advance it (how much)?

3) kinda off topic, but figured id ask it will im at it - If I put teggy calipers & pbr ceramic pads & brembo blanks on my 99 civic ex along with a 1" MC, is it worth it to get steel braided brake lines or is it kinda overkill? Im just looking for some daily driver turbo stopping brake power (coming from warped rotors and completely stock system)?

4) Any recommendations for ignition systems while boosted (in general)? For 7psi daily driver are ngk plugs and nology wires fine or is there something else that should be upgraded? I always kinda figured that with turbo you know you have more fuel (bigger injectors, fuel pump, etc) and more air obviously, so wouldnt you need better ignition for a better overall combustion? (This isnt really covered in turbo guides).

5) Lastly, what parts would you guys recommend for a light engine build? I have 140k and its a daily driver @ 7psi. I just want to know what parts I should look into that would help to re-enforce the block. Basically what engine internals should be replaced to help out for a light build? Im kinda looking for a combination, like hey you should get "pistons, camshaft and headgasket", but obviously a some-what budget build (least amount of parts for a good mild build).

Thanks alot for the help...

ccivic

1)3" -- Kteller Mandrel stainless 3" is only like 250$ shipped.
2)It's different for every setup-- you have to tune cam gears on the dyno.
3)Use hardlines-- cheaper and more effective.
4)NGK BKR7E's, with OEM or quality aftermarket wires. Stock ignition = A+
5)Bore .020 over, .020 over forged pistons of your choice, forged rods, ARP headstuds, new headgasket.

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the reply...but..

1) I heard its better to stay constant size for exhaust, is this true? Wouldnt 3" be too big for just 7psi?

2) In general is it better to retard or advance? Is there a "safe-side"? Ive always heard retard with boost, advance with NA.

3) Good place/brand to get?

4) So the MSD 6AL/blaster coils/etc. arent needed for mild setups?

5) Hmm..without boring the motor, what are just good things to replace? (anything else than the rods, headstuds and headgasket)?

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

any other opinions?

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

up..

AbitAvenger

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sk8shorty012 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the reply...but..

1) I heard its better to stay constant size for exhaust, is this true? Wouldnt 3" be too big for just 7psi?

2) In general is it better to retard or advance? Is there a "safe-side"? Ive always heard retard with boost, advance with NA.

3) Good place/brand to get?

4) So the MSD 6AL/blaster coils/etc. arent needed for mild setups?

5) Hmm..without boring the motor, what are just good things to replace? (anything else than the rods, headstuds and headgasket)?</TD></TR></TABLE>
1) It never hurts to have a large free flowing exhaust, because in the future, expecially if you plan to build the motor, it will support higher hp before restricting you like a 2.5 would.

2) Your tuner should know what to set it at while at the dyno. For now I would leave it at stock settings.

3) Stock?

4) No not at all. Honda's stock ignitions can take a beating. Many 600+ hp cars are still running stock ignition.

5) If you want to start replacing things, I would go with at minimum, headgasket, arp headstuds, water pump, and timing belt. If you want to go one step further and build the motor, meaning you could run more boost which = more power, then you could get pistons and rods. If you get pistons, get some +.020 bore (75.5mm) 9:1's And eagle H beam rods You could replace the bearings while in there also.

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

1) Okay well im down to two selections, should I go with the apexi N1 2.5" or go with the Thermal R&D 3"?

2) What if I am the tuner? haha..im learning it..so help would be appreciate. :thumbs up:

3) Figured it out. Thanks. On the same subject though, if I put teggy calipers on my civic, obviously a bigger MC would be needed - I was told go with a 1" from a 98-01 gsr, but would a MC from a ls of the same year be sufficient enough? This is also assuming I have steel braided brake lines, which would help brake pedal leverage.

4) Thanks.

5) Already replaced the timing belt & water pump, so it sounds like a good mild build would be headgasket, headstuds, pistons and rods, correct?

Appreciate any help.

sk8shorty012

iTrader: (3)

bump for almost having all my questions answered...

ccivic

Yeah. While you're inside the block, it's always a good idea to replace all of your bearings and thrust washers as well.