B18C1CYA

well i got my bottem end in yesterday and fird it up today, well at first start up you can hear some slap from the pistons. but after i drive it for a little bit it still is a little chattery dosnt realy sound like a knock i dont think. but i am running on a base map right know so i have only boosted like 1 psi nothing more right now, and its running realy rich on the base map.so my setup 81.5 mm je pistons, eagle rods with floating wrist pins, in a b18c1. i have adjusted the valves twice so i know they are right, when you give it throttle it sounds fine just when the rpms come back down its sounds like vavles are out of adjustment but they are not. this is my first built bottom end that i got and i dont know if this is normal or not any help would be great. buy the way this is broken in already and has about 550 miles on it.


Modified by B18C1CYA at 12:02 AM 4/20/2004

FredoSP

id be careful with that really rich base map, you dont want to washout the rings before they seat.

Can u make a video of the sound?

99B16Si

what was the piston to wall clearance set to?

anything over .003 your gonna hear for the first few minutes of the motor being cold

B18C1CYA

i dont know what the clearence is at i didnt put the pistons in it came together. the sound is like valves or something up top like no down low like in the oilpan.

boosted_dc2

i always heard je's slaped a little during warmup. is it hapening even after it warms up.

Landon

B18C1CYA

yes just quiter after warm up, could it be because they havent gotton hot enough because i havent boosted yet?

r1racer

I would say its piston slap because I have JE pistons too and when its cold it slaps and when it warms up it slaps a little bit....its fine...(i thought it was my valves too....but its piston slap)

MiraiZ

My car sounds like a diesel when cold, but it always did (even when totally stock)


vids 4 j00!

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....DE%3D

B18C1CYA

how come they slap so much compared to stock pistons ? does the floating wrist pins have anything to do with it also?

b18bturbo

floating wrist pins have nothing to do with the noise you are hearing. They allow you the use of aftermarekt rods. which require the use full float pin compared to pressed in pin like stock pistons

5thgencivic

It's the material of the pistons. Forged vs. cast and also silicon content in the forged pistons. Cast can be run with a tighter clearance since they don't expand as much when warm.

B18C1CYA

well i got a update for you guys , i had a person listen to it and it turns out its the rods knocking. very nosie by the oil pan. well i guess out comes the motor, i thought i would share this i got scammed by turbojody on this short block , he said nothing was wrong with it well i got fu@ked on this deal. dont buy from him

slim9300

What would rod knock be from? Wrong rod for the motor, or bad build-up?

B18C1CYA

not shure maybe was beat on realy bad, i dont know but it shouldt be there

turboJody

U sound like u are very **** about noise! It is not oem parts it after market parts!


Modified by turboJody at 11:32 PM 4/29/2004

dmecarboy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C1CYA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i got a update for you guys , i had a person listen to it and it turns out its the rods knocking. very noise by the oil pan. well i guess out comes the motor, i thought i would share this i got scammed by turbojody on this short block , he said nothing was wrong with it well i got fu@ked on this deal. dont buy from him</TD></TR></TABLE>

Before you start with he's a scammer, he sucks, don't buy from him, and all that. How do you know the rod is bad, have you taken it out and checked the bearing, looked at the color?. Aftermarket pistons will slap some till warmed. Do you know how to do a proper valve adjustment? He was straight up with you!

B18C1CYA

valves are properly adjusted twice already by a certified honda machanic, well i got news for you it knocks after its fully warm all the time between 2500-3200rpm, there is nothing wrong with my head because i ran that head for 10months now and never had this knocking. what about the stripped out bolt holes he couldnt even tell me about that, well i guess theres a reson it took him so long to sell it!


Modified by B18C1CYA at 7:53 PM 4/20/2004

99B16Si

if your gonna pull the motor anyway try revving the motor up into the higher rpms. if u have a rod knock like u said the noise will get a lot louder and worse real fast. if it doesnt get worse, u my friend have some nasty piston slap


Modified by 99B16Si at 3:07 PM 4/20/2004

B18C1CYA

When you rev it and hold it at any given rpm it will go away its when the rpms come back down to idel during to drop in rpms when you here the knocking , sound like realy bad valves but the valves are fine.

99B16Si

if u rev it up and the knock goes away the problem is not in your rods. and rod knock will get much worse with increasing rpm

usdm420

iTrader: (1)

99b16si is right, rod knock will just get worse the more you drive it until it'll eventually seize the motor. usually doesnt take long either

B18C1CYA

but piston slap is suposed to go away after the engine is warmed up, this there even after its warm. i guess i will pull the rod caps and see how they look.

99B16Si

if the piston to wall is set too large it wont go away at all. maybe only under extreme heat and boost

B18C1CYA

well i will post what i find in the rod caps and that will tell whats going on. this sucks, when you pull the spark plug wires off one at a time what should happen to tell if its rod knock. and do i half to let it be at idel or can i rev it?

turboJody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99B16Si &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u rev it up and the knock goes away the problem is not in your rods. and rod knock will get much worse with increasing rpm</TD></TR></TABLE><TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by usdm420 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">99b16si is right, rod knock will just get worse the more you drive it until it'll eventually seize the motor. usually doesnt take long either</TD></TR></TABLE>


There is no such thing as rod knocking. There is only one way to put in rod bearings and rods. Its not going to sound like OEM, its aftermarket. If you wanted it to sound like OEM you should have left your stock block in place and been happy with a quiet ride. Stop saying I'm a scammer because it worked just fine with me and the same sound.