after i got done installing my greddy turbo kit on my gsr, i took it out for a little 20 min drive and when i get back the coolant tank is bubbling, and coolant starts to come out...the temp. gauge is normal, the needle a little towards the H, but mostly in the middle. do i have a blown headgasket?!? also the car takes forever to warm up...thermostat problem?!?any information would be greatly appreciated!!!thanks!!

 

forever to warm up, and overheating, i would start with a t stat. may be hanging up.

did you drain the cooling system? it may be airbound.

 

change out ur themostat, verify that your sensor works, but sounds like u blew a head gasket...

 

WAIT calm down..... dont start thinkin head gasket yet. you put on a turbo kit.. a greddy... drove 20 min and its bubbling? and people are already screamin HG.

mine did the same thing and does every few months. dosent overheat but overflows out of the resevoir and is "bubbling" in the resevoir

everytime its my cheap as radiator cap. Acura Parts told me their cap wont work on non OE radiators so i use aftermarket so far my best cap came from NAPA evertime this happens i get a new cap and problem solved.


your extensive warm up time is the thermostat though. do your self a favor get a OE t-stat, or i guess NAPA while your getting your new radiator cap ( right?, your on your way already correct?? jk but do it ) then drain and fill with fresh anti-freeze and retry.

also do you have sufficient fans?

by the way my car boiled over YESTERDAY and steamed and boiled in the resevoir
put a new cap on last night and is fine today sitting idling in near 100* weather

OH YEAH also everytime this happens if i talk to someone about it they tell me i must have a blown headgasket blah blah..... but i have a fresh decked block and head and a OE headgasket and ARP head studs so....... i dont think so


easiest way to see if its the rad cap is to squeeze the radiator hose when it is doin this obviously it will be hot but it should be pretty hard to squeeze if its not the rad cap is releasing pressure too low and causing your problem.

 

thanks everybody for the help....the car isnt over heating or anything...but for sure i am and do need to replace the t-stat...but about the fan...uhh i never heard the fan go on ever since i owned the car...but i had this car for almost 2 1/2 years now, and no over heating problems besides a rip hose, second time boosting it also...but i'll try out what " agrn93ls" said about it...so your saying go buy a aftermarket rad. cap?!? i'm running my OE radiator so everything should be fine right?!?.....thanks again though people!!!

 

OH NO if you have a OE radiator get a OE cap i dont have a OE radiator and the parts guy said he has issues all the time when people try to put the OE cap with a aftermarket radiator so i went to NAPA and STANDARD cooling products makes napas cooling products and i think they are the best aftermarket cap maker and i have had the best luck with that cap so far. the caps from Oreilly and Autozone didnt hold at all or held so much they blew up my new radiator

 

once you put a new cap on how long does it last until it bubbles again?!?everytime it bubbles do i drain it and re-fil?!?

 

Do you recommend changing the radiator cap on a fluidyne radiator too? And how can you tell when a radiator is done?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_r_951 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">once you put a new cap on how long does it last until it bubbles again?!?everytime it bubbles do i drain it and re-fil?!?</TD></TR></TABLE>


my cheap *** caps have lasted i believe 4-5 months no you dont have to drain and refill when you have a cap issue just top off the fluid and put on cap.

go to dealer or Napa for your cap not Autojunk or Oreilly like i did and get a no name cap.


is that what your asking me???

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by julianaa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you recommend changing the radiator cap on a fluidyne radiator too? And how can you tell when a radiator is done? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah change the cap if you have a problem, or look at the seals on it, do they look old? Its NEVER a BAD idea just like its never a bad idea to change your oil even if not do it wont hurt and dont cost an arm and a leg.


typically a radiator only goes bad two ways, gets clogged or leaks. obviously if it leaks its bad but you'll normally notice a clogged radiator while runnin down the road you wont get enough flow and it will run hot

 

I'm thinking I have an air bubble in my line somewhere b/c if I do city driving, it normally doesn't run hot, even in this hot *** weather.

But if I do long highway driving, as soon as I come to a stop, it heats up and my lower radiator hose is cold But it(lower radiator hose) gets hot during city driving and the fan comes on

I'll try out the radiator cap

 

i also havent heard my fan go on..i wonder what the problem can be?!?but its 's funny cause the car never overheated or anything unsual, just the long wait for it to warm up, which is due to the t-stat....but thanks everyone for the help...especially agrn93ls, i will replace the cap and re fill the radiator, and we'll see wha happens....

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by julianaa &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm thinking I have an air bubble in my line somewhere b/c if I do city driving, it normally doesn't run hot, even in this hot *** weather.

But if I do long highway driving, as soon as I come to a stop, it heats up and my lower radiator hose is cold But it(lower radiator hose) gets hot during city driving and the fan comes on

I'll try out the radiator cap </TD></TR></TABLE>

if the lower hose is cold that is usually and indication of a lack of flow .... or one bad *** radiator lol. but next time feel the radiator too. if its hot at the top and not at the bottom i would say most likely its clogged. pull the cap drain a little water... what do the passages look like clean.. dirty?

also if the water pump has been replaced i've noticed alot of the recent replacement water pumps are coming with plastic blades and after a while they get brittle and break off that could be an issue too. metal ones can wear away if you cooling system hasn't been well taken care of also.


if your heater works well and stays working well when you run it that is a good way to see if the pump is pumping well.

 

the heater is working great...i know for sure that the top of the radiator get pretty hot when the car is on or after i've been driving it...but i'm going to have to drain the radiator and check it out...still need to get the new cap...but i do know that on my old radiator cap, the otherside(the part that goes into the radiator) broke off...so hopefully that well solve the issue, but then again when i ran all motor it didnt have this problem, it ran just fine...but once i give it a shot i'll see what happens...thanks again!!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoon_r_951 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but then again when i ran all motor it didnt have this problem, it ran just fine...but once i give it a shot i'll see what happens...thanks again!!! </TD></TR></TABLE>


your burning more fuel which makes higher cylinder temps which expands the coolant more which makes more pressure in the cooling system which shows up when you have a weak radiator cap......


same exact thing happened to me, i was allmotor, then sprayed it, no issues, went boost and the first damn day car boiled over bad. new cap no mo issue

 

got the cap today at autozone...its a cst or cts i forgot but i asked how many p.s.i. it can withstand and he said 16...so hopefully this well bring an end to what is happening..but i started the car yesterday and felt the radiator and the top and bottom of the radiator get's hot...but now imma have to try out the cap...but then again i forgot to buy more coolant!!!