this is continued FROM this thread i started the other day in a lower traffic area.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1587788

im so ****** frustrated with this. this is the last time im gonna get input before i start ripping **** apart.

today i get off work at 5pm. leave out for atlanta one hour trip. I get about 20 miles into it, starts over heating like a bitch, 3/4 the way up, then it starts going higher and i finally pull over cause i wasnt going higher. i ****** let it sit, finally pop the cap, prolly pour a cup of water in there. crank it ,drive it, not even prolly 12-15 more miles it starts again, 3/4 the way, then starts going higher. i pull off, let it sit, refill, then continue on to my destination cutting it off at every redlight to prevent further heartache. get to my destination, let sit for about 4 hrs. pour another cup of water in. leave out at 10:15pm for home. would not overheat one ******* bit. not a drop, so i get closer to home and start beating on it. 4th gear pull 16 psi. nothing. stayed the same. did another, still fine. Get on my country road and do another. then i do 2 -3rd gear pulls at like 18-19 psi, hard pulls spinning tires like greased lightning. still not ****, pull into drive way it sits for about a minute and half idling AND THEN IT STARTS TO GO UP, WHILE IM IDLING. it gets 3/4 the way up so i hold the gas at like 6 grand and the ****** goes back down. to the middle ish area and i cut her off to come inside and start this bitchin. WTF IS THIS BULLSHIT, i cant ge it to overheat beating on it, just driving it normal*sometimes* and idling it. This is ****** retarded. Im changing the radiator for a brand new oem dual core tomorrow and if that doesnt help im ripping this **** apart.

 

maybe just a bad thermostat? replace it with an OEM one.

 

is your fan kicking on??? Make sure that's working too...

also might have a bubble in the system...

 

thermostat is less than 8 months old, already removed it and tested it and it opened just fine. fan stays on whe the key is on, not that. Air bubble, eh, i dont know. From the bullshit ive been messing with, its somethig having to do with the headgasket, or its a blocked radiator.

 

i fought this for months, although my headgasket was not blown my sleeves were sunk compared to the rest of the deck just a few thousandths, this led to air being pushed into the coolant which would obvioiusly cause it to overheat and push coolant out the overflow. The temperature gauge acts absolutely crazy, probably because when there is an air pocket at the temp sensor the ecu gets no input.

I replaced the thermostat, no help
i ran open thermostat, no help
i bought a new and thicker radiator, no help
i replaced the temp sensor, no help
finally i tore the head off and sanded it with a very flat piece of steel and some sandpaper. The sleeves were sunk.

retorqued the arp's to 60 ft/lbs and upped the boost, car never overheated again.

 

lol you sanded the head, and replace the gasket on sunk sleeves and walla?

how sunk, because i think the gasket can tolerate 2 thousandths or some ****. I have golden eagle sleeves.

funny thing is, my first ever build was a rods and pistons build stock sleeves, over heating from the first moment i drove it, redlining the gauge. 2 days later of fighting it, and getting tuned. and it never EVER did it again until i start mkaing 500whp on it. LOL WTF!

now the same **** with this build

 

check to make sure the fan is rotating the right direction. This could also be a problem.

 

nope, its good. the car was perfectly fine for 2 months and then one day it started floating upward and i let it cool off and added water and it was fine for 2 weeks strait and then it started again about a week ago and just has progressively pissed me off and then this past saturday it blew the lower rad hose at the thermo housing during a dyno run. but yesterday DAY was aweful driving for an hour had to stop twice, then on the way back, nothing, even beating on it with 18psi LOW BOOST by the way. and it didnt do it until i got home and was idling.

my temp gauge has always crept past halfway when getting on it hard on the streets, and then fall right back to normal after getting on it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SPOOLINmatt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">funny thing is, my first ever build was a rods and pistons build stock sleeves, over heating from the first moment i drove it, redlining the gauge. 2 days later of fighting it, and getting tuned. and it never EVER did it again until i start mkaing 500whp on it. LOL WTF!

now the same **** with this build</TD></TR></TABLE>


Air pockets can be a bitch. I redid a HG on a $50 Probe I found. Drive it for a few miles, kept overheating. Added water, OH'd. I let it sit for 2 days then my dad drove it - and it has been perfect ever since. My guess is that you have: a leak and maybe a bad thermostat. I'd surmise that the leak is allowing air pockets to form, and not allowing a already bad thermostat to open. If the TS is bad, only a small bit is getting around the sleeves, turning to steam there, then shooting the steam out the rad cap.

 

I was running an MLS gasket also and replaced it with an OEM d15 type on my z6.

and yes i sanded the deck, never overheated again.

 

i just took my head off, on cylinder 4 on the intake side, the gasket had black **** on it on the head side, and the water jacket part of the gasket, the little metal holes were broe around the edges lol. the head also had the black **** on it, only in this spot. when i took the gasket off, it was really wavy like warped, sad thing is is that it was like that when i installed it, maybe i was a dumbass for doing that. now im trying to get these f u c k i n g o-rings out.