Ok so I put on the JR charger the other day and got everything hooked up except for the boost retard and the Fuel Enrichment Relay and I think something else, but the bolt on's I got all on. I started the car and after a minute or 2 of running she started idling up and down between 1600 rpm's and 2200 rpm's. Check for any leaks and found it at where the blower meets the manifold. I didn't have a gasket in there, I used hondabond. I ordered the actual gasket to go there so I put that in today and got that in there now and started the car up and same thing. After a minute or 2 of running it started doing the same thing. I said **** it and took it for a drive around base to see if it was just a phase where the gasket just had to get properly sealed in. So I stopped at the shoppette and turned the car off for a while and I went inside. 10 minutes later I come out and turn the car on and about 10 seconds after the car was turned on the check engine light came on and the idling was a fast up and down idling now. It was idling between 1300 and 1700 rpm's now really fast compared to the slower type of idling that was going up and down really slow. Can anyone tell me what this could be and how can I fix it or where should I look at for this problem. I don't have my boost gauge in yet but I'll have it in by tomorrow to see how much it's getting. Any help would be appreciated.

Thx, Jose.

 

it might be you map sensor

 

This is a stupid question, but do all car's have map sensors, if so then it's a stock map sensor. I've been trying to get a base map for my hondata S200 so I can put that in there to get it tuned but all I have in my car is the stock ecu. I upgraded the intake fuel pump to the Walbro HP255lph pump, %10 upgrade venom injectors, AEM fuel rail, B&M fuel regulator with the JR fuel regulator and other than that just your basic I/H/E bolt on's.

 

did you mess with you throttle body at all

 

Not all cars have map sensors.... some cars have mass air flow sensors instead, but I think all honda's use map sensors

 

check your coolant level. and if that is full, your iac had to be extended during the process of installing the charger, make sure your connections (butt connectors) are in tack and you have the right wire to wire connection.

 

No, just re-routed the throttle body cable sense the throttle body sits lower now with the blower down low. That's the only thing I did that had to do with the throttle body.

 

it could be lots of things lots of things like you tps sensor or a bad injector or a vacuum leak. or maybe your linkage is stuck

 

When I started the car the first time I had no coolant in the car at all. Just turned it on too see if everything worked fine. I'm up here in North Dakota where it's still in the high 30's, low 40's at night so it cools down quick. I just put some coolant in tonight and once the engine started cycling the coolant through after driving it for about 8 to 10 minutes is when it started doing the fast pace up and down idling, but before it was a slow up and down idling.

 

i really cant tell you whats wrong it could be many things when the idle jumos like that. prob best of taking to a shop to get check out. they cant charge you to see whats wrong with it

 

when u start an enigne up for the first time after flush and refilling it. it will seem to be full. but after the engine warms up the thermostat will then open allowing some air pockets in . recheck the coolant level again.

 

So not having the proper amount of fluid can cause my car to act the way it is right now with the idling issue.