compression test went horribly
Thank you so much guys! I got the valve lash close, I need to go re-adjust cylinder 3 a little bit, but it does have compression now!
148-142-130-148 are the current readings. What a relief. Thanks again guys.
- Steven
148-142-130-148 are the current readings. What a relief. Thanks again guys.
- Steven
Hate to be a dick but no you're not.
Your turn the crank 180 to get the cam to turn 90... it even says so in your link.
Also you want which ever cylinder you're on to be at TDC... if you start at TDC of 1 and only rotate the crank 90 degrees you're at BDC of 1 and half way up the cylinder for 3.
Your turn the crank 180 to get the cam to turn 90... it even says so in your link.
Also you want which ever cylinder you're on to be at TDC... if you start at TDC of 1 and only rotate the crank 90 degrees you're at BDC of 1 and half way up the cylinder for 3.
You had quoted the previous poster who said turn the crank 180 degrees... you said you go by the cam gear...
Just wanted to clarify that you are turning the crank 180 degrees.
Just wanted to clarify that you are turning the crank 180 degrees.
Yeah thank you for clarifying that for him... obviously he is lost.
You can go by whatever you want... if your camshaft timing is correct when the cylinder you want to set is at TDC then you set that cylinder, the next cylinder you go to in the firing order takes, guess what, 90* of a turn on the camshaft and 180* turn on the crankshaft.
To get VERY basic Hondas have 4-stroke motors AKA 4-cycle motors. There are (imagine this) 4 parts, AKA strokes, to the combustion process.
1.) Intake - Piston is moving down. Intake valves open, Exhaust valves closed.
2.) Compression - Piston is moving up. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
3.) Power - Piston is moving down. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
4.) Exhaust - Piston is moving up. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
Well if you look at what just happened to complete one process. So when you translate that into how the motor works the crankshaft springs 360* TWO times to get the camshaft to turn ONE time. So if you looked at it that way it takes 720* of turning the crankshaft to get 360* out of the camshaft. Since there are FOUR parts to the process you divide each number by FOUR and you will get 180* for the crankshaft to every 90* of the camshaft...... OR ...... 90* for the camshaft for every 180* of the crankshaft.
I turn all of my motors by the crankshaft like it is meant to be done... therefore I was telling the OP to turn his crankshaft 180* to get his camshaft to turn 90*... if your motor is not even close to having the valves closed when you do this then you have MAJOR problems. Since these are interference motors you most likely would have bent valves now if you turned the motor over hard enough. The camshaft marks are just for reference but you should always get a visual on the base circle of the cam to be sure.
You can go by whatever you want... if your camshaft timing is correct when the cylinder you want to set is at TDC then you set that cylinder, the next cylinder you go to in the firing order takes, guess what, 90* of a turn on the camshaft and 180* turn on the crankshaft.
To get VERY basic Hondas have 4-stroke motors AKA 4-cycle motors. There are (imagine this) 4 parts, AKA strokes, to the combustion process.
1.) Intake - Piston is moving down. Intake valves open, Exhaust valves closed.
2.) Compression - Piston is moving up. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
3.) Power - Piston is moving down. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
4.) Exhaust - Piston is moving up. Intake valves closed, Exhaust valves closed.
Well if you look at what just happened to complete one process. So when you translate that into how the motor works the crankshaft springs 360* TWO times to get the camshaft to turn ONE time. So if you looked at it that way it takes 720* of turning the crankshaft to get 360* out of the camshaft. Since there are FOUR parts to the process you divide each number by FOUR and you will get 180* for the crankshaft to every 90* of the camshaft...... OR ...... 90* for the camshaft for every 180* of the crankshaft.
I turn all of my motors by the crankshaft like it is meant to be done... therefore I was telling the OP to turn his crankshaft 180* to get his camshaft to turn 90*... if your motor is not even close to having the valves closed when you do this then you have MAJOR problems. Since these are interference motors you most likely would have bent valves now if you turned the motor over hard enough. The camshaft marks are just for reference but you should always get a visual on the base circle of the cam to be sure.
no offense, but how did you put an engine together and not know how to adjust valve clearance. seems odd to me.
and you do go by the camshaft markings. the camshaft isnt technically at 100% tdc when doing clearance, and its not supposed to be. which is why you use the cam markings.
and you do go by the camshaft markings. the camshaft isnt technically at 100% tdc when doing clearance, and its not supposed to be. which is why you use the cam markings.
Gotta crack a few eggs to make an omlet. Sometimes you gotta ask a few questions to learn how its done.
MB
glad you got her sorted, theres only 1 way to learn and if you have never done it before, how will you ever know if you can do it?
Just wait till the first time you crack a transmission case open to attempt your first rebuild. that'll have you scratching your head for a few days until you understand how every thing works together.
Just wait till the first time you crack a transmission case open to attempt your first rebuild. that'll have you scratching your head for a few days until you understand how every thing works together.
is it cyl. 3 that looks a bit low did you try adding a drop of oil to see if it rose? but never the less comp. looks good to me how does it perform?
oh the engine is night and day now. I'm very thankful that I had everything balanced when I put it together, it vibrates less with my innovative mounts now than it did with the D series.
As for performance, I can't really say yet. I have to get a downpipe built so I can install my wideband, and I also need a new flywheel as I made another mistake there...but that's a whole new can of worms. I'm hoping I can start driving it again in a week or two. Sooner is better as it's starting to get cold, so riding my 250 is getting old.
Thanks again everyone, I can sleep well tonight finally haha
- Steven
As for performance, I can't really say yet. I have to get a downpipe built so I can install my wideband, and I also need a new flywheel as I made another mistake there...but that's a whole new can of worms. I'm hoping I can start driving it again in a week or two. Sooner is better as it's starting to get cold, so riding my 250 is getting old.
Thanks again everyone, I can sleep well tonight finally haha
- Steven
glad you got her sorted, theres only 1 way to learn and if you have never done it before, how will you ever know if you can do it?
Just wait till the first time you crack a transmission case open to attempt your first rebuild. that'll have you scratching your head for a few days until you understand how every thing works together.
Just wait till the first time you crack a transmission case open to attempt your first rebuild. that'll have you scratching your head for a few days until you understand how every thing works together.

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