Cold Engine Boost??
In many cases all it takes is once. boosting on a cold motor can unevenly heat internal parts, causing a very high risk of failure. for example forged aluminum pistons expand faster then the sleeves. you go out rag on it, the pistons have a high risk expanding way to fast causing the piston to "cold seize" in the cylinder or chew the heck up the sides/skirts of the piston. it dont take that long to warm the engine up.. let it warm up . just my .02
In many cases all it takes is once. boosting on a cold motor can unevenly heat internal parts, causing a very high risk of failure. for example forged aluminum pistons expand faster then the sleeves. you go out rag on it, the pistons have a high risk expanding way to fast causing the piston to "cold seize" in the cylinder or chew the heck up the sides/skirts of the piston. it dont take that long to warm the engine up.. let it warm up . just my .02
Well my engine just fell flat after like 6k, it was dead cold i was mad very mad got in the car, cursed for a min (still cold) hit the stop sign boosted hard 10psi (still cold), pulling pulling , flat after 6k, still ran, drove the car like 150miles (still mad thinking of stuff) hour and half later went home, Car stat all night / day, started it in the morning pulled in drive way, went out to pick up a pizza , died on me drivin home, walked home got my bike , went back wont start.
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VERY BAD!! this is when the most damage is done to internal combustion engines...not just turboed engines just any engine that is pushed hard right after being started.
Although if your numbers are correct i dont really think thats your problem, 150miles is alot for one sit. If something would have been wrong due to that cold boost it probably would have happened then...not saying it's definitely not though!
how did it die? did it spit and sputter, or just dead stop?
Although if your numbers are correct i dont really think thats your problem, 150miles is alot for one sit. If something would have been wrong due to that cold boost it probably would have happened then...not saying it's definitely not though!
how did it die? did it spit and sputter, or just dead stop?
Just fell flat right when it hit like 6k, then after it felt like it pulls drops pulls drops like after 3 smooth but flat , but the next day the reason it dyed was my dizzy went out, got no spark , swapped it runs normal again, Was at a light hit first, blew a I/C pipe coupler , the car ran smoother and hard with I/C pipe off fixed at a gas station, boostin again, And i think the reason the pull drop thing is happening is because of a 200 china turbo i bought to replace the last 200 china turbo and i think i need a real trubo, but motor feels ok , no over heat ,oil burn or coolent loss,
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
Just fell flat right when it hit like 6k, then after it felt like it pulls drops pulls drops like after 3 smooth but flat , but the next day the reason it dyed was my dizzy went out, got no spark , swapped it runs normal again, Was at a light hit first, blew a I/C pipe coupler , the car ran smoother and hard with I/C pipe off fixed at a gas station, boostin again, And i think the reason the pull drop thing is happening is because of a 200 china turbo i bought to replace the last 200 china turbo and i think i need a real trubo, but motor feels ok , no over heat ,oil burn or coolent loss,
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
wtf he say?
Just fell flat right when it hit like 6k, then after it felt like it pulls drops pulls drops like after 3 smooth but flat , but the next day the reason it dyed was my dizzy went out, got no spark , swapped it runs normal again, Was at a light hit first, blew a I/C pipe coupler , the car ran smoother and hard with I/C pipe off fixed at a gas station, boostin again, And i think the reason the pull drop thing is happening is because of a 200 china turbo i bought to replace the last 200 china turbo and i think i need a real trubo, but motor feels ok , no over heat ,oil burn or coolent loss,
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
China turbo's are a no no.. all that turbo is good for is boosting the money out of your wallet to keep replacing them. Spend the money get a good turbo and not worry about it.. I been there done that ..it sucks ..just think you have 400 wrapped up in turbos another 2 you can get your self a decently used turbo ...as for falling flat and you mentioned it feel better with the IC pipe of.. is this car tuned at all? what injectors does it have?
China turbo's are a no no.. all that turbo is good for is boosting the money out of your wallet to keep replacing them. Spend the money get a good turbo and not worry about it.. I been there done that ..it sucks ..just think you have 400 wrapped up in turbos another 2 you can get your self a decently used turbo ...as for falling flat and you mentioned it feel better with the IC pipe of.. is this car tuned at all? what injectors does it have?
back on topic like everyone has been saying thinks can unevenly heat resulting in many problems! I wont get into boost till the motor is at normal operating and after I run it hard I wait at least a minute till I shut it down just so everything can get lubricated and idel down
Just fell flat right when it hit like 6k, then after it felt like it pulls drops pulls drops like after 3 smooth but flat , but the next day the reason it dyed was my dizzy went out, got no spark , swapped it runs normal again, Was at a light hit first, blew a I/C pipe coupler , the car ran smoother and hard with I/C pipe off fixed at a gas station, boostin again, And i think the reason the pull drop thing is happening is because of a 200 china turbo i bought to replace the last 200 china turbo and i think i need a real trubo, but motor feels ok , no over heat ,oil burn or coolent loss,
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
i tell you want no more cold boost mad or not, its just my car takes a while to warm up its kinda wired.
I think he's trying to say my vtec ain't kicking in yo at 3k rpm.
I had a chinese turbo that I ran 1 bar on for 9months [t3/t4 t04e] and swapped out with a turbonetics t3 and it had 0 shaft play whatsoever and the turbonetics after 2 months of owning it pulled it off for a new manifold and has very little shaft... I guess it just depends sometimes.
I had a chinese turbo that I ran 1 bar on for 9months [t3/t4 t04e] and swapped out with a turbonetics t3 and it had 0 shaft play whatsoever and the turbonetics after 2 months of owning it pulled it off for a new manifold and has very little shaft... I guess it just depends sometimes.
I sort of have the same issue..
It takes a bit for my car to warm up. Being ~40 degrees here its rather cold. Once I start driving my tempature drop to the "C" mark. If I sit at a light or stop at any given place for a bit.. my tempature climbs up to 1/4-1/2 between hot and cold. I think my tempature stat is stuck open which causes it to fluctuate. The question is.. I am boosted.. so will this drastically effect me being in boost if my tempature is always around "C" when driving?
It takes a bit for my car to warm up. Being ~40 degrees here its rather cold. Once I start driving my tempature drop to the "C" mark. If I sit at a light or stop at any given place for a bit.. my tempature climbs up to 1/4-1/2 between hot and cold. I think my tempature stat is stuck open which causes it to fluctuate. The question is.. I am boosted.. so will this drastically effect me being in boost if my tempature is always around "C" when driving?
I sort of have the same issue..
It takes a bit for my car to warm up. Being ~40 degrees here its rather cold. Once I start driving my tempature drop to the "C" mark. If I sit at a light or stop at any given place for a bit.. my tempature climbs up to 1/4-1/2 between hot and cold. I think my tempature stat is stuck open which causes it to fluctuate. The question is.. I am boosted.. so will this drastically effect me being in boost if my tempature is always around "C" when driving?
It takes a bit for my car to warm up. Being ~40 degrees here its rather cold. Once I start driving my tempature drop to the "C" mark. If I sit at a light or stop at any given place for a bit.. my tempature climbs up to 1/4-1/2 between hot and cold. I think my tempature stat is stuck open which causes it to fluctuate. The question is.. I am boosted.. so will this drastically effect me being in boost if my tempature is always around "C" when driving?
Its street tuned on neptune rtp, didnt have money for dyno, spent all on rtp, but it has 880cc,
I meant it felt like it was boost , N/a , Boost N/A, like a tug and pull type thing back and forth , power , low power, power, low power
I like run-on sentences HA
I meant it felt like it was boost , N/a , Boost N/A, like a tug and pull type thing back and forth , power , low power, power, low power
I like run-on sentences HA


