Hi,

I have a GSR JRSC'ed at 11 psi. Stock internals, 440cc injectors, b&m fpr, hondata s200b.
When I put the hondata on, the car ran fine. However after some miles the car started to drive in open loop only. Even at idle the a/f gauge is constantly in rich.
Only while driving and stepping off gas, it goes into lean but as soon as stepping again on gas (even very very slightly) it goes into rich and stays there. Driveability while cruising is very poor and the mileage is more than horrible.
Also, from time to time, the MIL shows code 1, so oxy sensor. Then I turn off the engine, turn it on again and light is off. However, the problem of course persists.
Another effect, idle rpm is most of times very low and the engine goes off from time to time.
My question now. Look at this after reading this thread.

http://www.pandablue.com/nissa...=9863

On an Australian board I red that the outer shell of the oxy sens is very sensitive to contamination. It can be enough to touch it with your fingers to change the voltage figures. I admit, I touched it once.
Second, here we have Optimax fuel. This is 100 octane fuel. In Australia they do have it too and say that the oxy sensor can be damaged by the additives in this fuel as well as by lead or grease etc.
If the oxy is not damaged definitively then you can put it into citric acid, wash it out afterwards and dryed.
Then it would be clean again. What do you guys think?
Has one of you had the same problem? Or can one of you confirm the citric acid thing?
Many thanks.


Modified by Aerodeck at 11:21 AM 12/18/2003

 

is this true?

 

I would not put it in any type of solution etc. Just buy a new one.

This link is an interesting read:
http://www.innovatemotorsports...id=82

Though I can't confirm that using that to clean is bad, I just wouldn't do it. But if it is bad already it wouldn't hurt to try since you need a new one anyway.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slashDEVslashNULL &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> But if it is bad already it wouldn't hurt to try since you need a new one anyway.</TD></TR></TABLE>

right on. i'de just try it and see. What made you pick citric acid?

 

**** im gonna try it cause i think I touched it when i did my swap......so i will tell you guys if it works after i try it

 

I uses brake cleaners...never have any problem

stan

 

I used gasoline and a nylon (tooth) brush... never had a problem...

Cant hurt to try it, worst thing that happens is that you need to buy a new one, but at this point, you may need a new one anyways....

 

Same thing i do, never a problem.

 

courtesy of klaus and the lm -1 team:
This is a list of what not to do with a WB sensor:

1. Leave unpowered while the engine is running
This carbonizes the sensor and destroys it permanently.

2. Power it up while the engine is stopped and then start the car
This can cause condensation water to be blown at the hot sensor elements. The resulting heat shock can crack the sensor ceramics.

3. Lay it in the tailpipe (without an exhaust clamp).
Water can run into the sensor and destroy it as in 2. It can also fall out (see point 6.)

4. Use penetrants on or near the sensor
Chemicals in penetrants like WD-40 cause a chemical reaction in the sensor ceramics that will destroy the sensor. Even vapor is enough. When sprayed on the sensor cable they can work their way through the cable sheath into the sensor as well.

5. Run it in an 'wet' exhaust
A problem in boats where the exhaust is under water and water can be sucked in the pipe. Y off a seperate 'exhaust pipe' of about 3/4" diameter above the water line and mount the sensor in there.

6. Drag it behind the car
Easy to do when not fixed well to the tailpipe
Half a sensor does NOT show half AFR.

7. Use it as a Lollipop
It does not taste good.

Things that shorten a sensor's lifespan:

1. Leaded or otherwise metallized fuels
On leaded race gas the sensor's lifespan is shortened.
According to the Bosch specs on leaded fuels:

.6 grams lead/liter: 20,000 km
.4 grams lead/liter: 30,000 km
.15 grams lead/liter: 60,000 km


2. Running the sensor overheated for extended periods
When the sensor overheats the LM-1 will first show incredibly lean and then error out with an Error 08.
Use a heat-sink on the sensor (look in the old yahoo forum posts for details).


3. Running continuously very rich
This is only a problem on misadjusted engines. In normal operation, even in racing, there are enough periods with lean or stoich operation that the sensor can clean itself. In drag-racing the shortened lifespan is still long enough to typically outlast the engine.

Just thought it might help someone.