i need help choosing a turbo size for a b16 fully built. im not interested in big numbers as i am response.

 

You'll need to do some reading to figure this out. You'll make yourself smarter in the process. Once you finish advanced, you'll be more knowledgeable than a majority of the people in FI and be able to read a compressor map so you can choose the turbo you need.

Garrett Turbo Tech Basic
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...rbo_tech_basic

Garrett Turbo Tech Advanced
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob..._tech_advanced

Garrett Turbo Tech Expert
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...bo_tech_expert

then you have these other resources since these questions get asked just about every day.

***Forced Induction Forum FAQ***
https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

B16a Turbo Setups
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...&highlight=b16

 

great links thanks a lot

 

Well? what did you choose.

 

T4 50 Trim unless i learn anything new

 

T4? what size AR?

 

not knowledgeable enough to answer that but from what ive read a smaller size for low end response

 

In a T3 yes.. Not a T4.

This may help..

A/R: A formula used to determine the size of the compressor and turbine housing configuration. The letters stand for Area divided by Radius, where Area is the cross-sectional area of the scroll (the finned wheel), and Radius is the shortest distance from the centerline of A to the centerline of the turbine shaft. The basic rule of thumb about A/R: A turbo with a smaller A/R value will spool up quicker and be more responsive, though it wont produce as much peak power as one with a larger A/R value. The turbo with the larger A/R value has the greater capacity to produce power, but will spool up slower and exhibit turbo lag.



Bar: A means of expressing air pressure, like psi. A measurement of 1.0 bar translates to 14.5 psi, which is equivalent to normal atmospheric pressure at sea level.

Bearings: The shaft between the turbine and compressor wheel rides on bearings inside the turbo's center housing. In a standard turbo those bearings are made of metal, and thin film of oil seperates the shaft from the bearings. These bearings do wear, but they can be rebuilt if damaged. Some turbos use ball bearings in the center housing instead of metal bearings, which reduces overall friction and speeds up the turbo's recovery time in-between the changing of gears. Ball-bearing turbos are pricey to rebuild, if at all possible.

Blow-Off Valve (aka Pop-off-valve): A device used to release excess pressure in the intake system between the compressor wheel and the throttle plates, to prevent compressor surge.



Boost: A measure of the air charge sent from the compressor to the combustion chamber, typically indicated in either pounds per square inch (psi) or bar.

Compressor wheel: The finned wheel on the intake side of the turbocharger that is driven by the exhaust-side turbine. It ingest fresh air through the center inlet, compresses it, and eventually sends it to the combustion chambers of the engine. (Usually by way of an intercooler, which is a type of heat exchanger)



Compressor Surge: A condition caused by compressed intake air caught between the compressor wheel and closed throttle plates. When you get off the throttle after a burst of acceleration, the plates close but the compressor wheel may still be sending compressed air into the system. If the compressed intake charge cannot flow through the throttle plates, it will flow back to the compressor, which could result in bearing damage and compressor wheel reversion

Downpipe: The steel or aluminum exhaust pipe that carries exhaust gasses away from the turbine side of the turbocharger and into the rest of the exhaust system. A large-diameter, free-flowing downpipe eases backpressure that could impede the exhaust flow at the turbine and hinder performance.

Compressor / Turbine Housings: The snail-shaped volute enclosures inside of which the turbine and compressor wheels spin. Like A/R, housing shape and size have tremendous effect on the turbochargers output, as well as its ability to dissipate heat. A turbo with a larger housing can produce higher boost, and therefore higher horsepower, but is generally slower to spool. A turbo with a smaller housing spools quicker but cannot make high levels of boost.

Intercooler: A type of heat exchanger that is plumbed into the air flow between the compressor and the intake manifold that cools the air coming from the compressor. A cooler charge of air is denser, so more of it can be packed into the combustion chamber. Intercooler design typically falls into one of two types-- air-to air or water-to-air-- depending on what means is used to do the cooling. Air-to-air intercoolers are simpler, smaller, and lighter, though they may not cool as effectively as water-to-air units.



Trim: A measure of the size of the compressor and/or turbine wheel.



Turbine: The finned wheel on the exhaust side of the turbocharger that is driven by the flow of exhaust gas coming from the engine and through the turbine housing. The turbine wheel drives the shaft that, in turn, spins the compressor wheel.


Turbo Lag: A hesitation in the production of boost. Lag is typically experienced with turbochargers with large housing or large turbine wheel sizes, as it takes more exhaust pressure to get the turbine spinning (spooled up) One cure for this problem would be a nitrous kit to eliminate Turbo Lag.

Wastegate: A valve used to bleed off excess exhaust pressure on the turbine side of the turbocharger. This is done to maintain optimal boost pressure without over-spinning the turbine wheel. Wastegates are either internal (built into the turbine housing) or external (plumbed downstream of the turbo). Internal wastegates are found on most OE turbochargers, as they're less expensive to make and are easier to package underhood. Internal wastegates, however, are typically smaller than external versions, and so cannot relieve as much pressure as the external units can. Some wastegates can also be adjusted to tune boost levels.




Here's the big picture of it ALL..

 

There is no such thing as a small size low end T4 turbo. Spool characteristics have to do the with AR exhaust housing size T4 is a large flange for large turbos with large hotside AR's like usually 1.00+ AR. which means spool up on a honda engine like 5k rpm

T4 turbos are top end.

way to copy pasta. most people don't understand that shiz.

T4 50 trim, I'm guessing Garrett T04E / T04B? and as T4? I'm willing to bet it's 1.15+ AR. meaning you won't even spool by 5k rpm

 

Only if its spaghetti.... I try not to copy/paste because a lot of it is incorrect even though the organization is nice. I keep those as reminders for those like the OP who are starting out fresh, in an effort to create a "sticky" for others to reference.

 

I still think the OP picked the wrong turbo. unless he wants over 450HP, he should of got T3.

 

im looking into a k20 and an h22 swap in my 97 si i wanna push 25 psi for boost anyone know the reliability of bore an stroking it to a 2.6

 

and any recommondations on a turbo to do it safetly this is going to be my first build and first turbo just getting into a garage now wondering safety zones on civics

 

Power level and use please. No "psi" goals. In either case, words like "safe " and "reliable" are only as good as the parts used, assembly and tuning of the engine... Cheapen out in any of those areas, and you won't have anything safe or reliable.

Please start looking at other builds that have the characteristics you're looking for. Then no one will be speculating.

Come back with specific information, then we can assist better. But you have to do some legwork on your own here.

 

25psi on what? a T25? make like 250whp? lol.

what power goal, when do you want to spool, etc

 

I recommend you not jack other people threads.

 

so he can create his own thread with the exact same question I've tried to help answer like 5 times already in the past week.

 

No such thing as a 97 Si....

I'm not evem sure where to start in this thread... says he wants low power levels and great response then decides on a "t4 turbo"

 

And a properly done k swap, just the motor, trans, wiring, ecu and mounts and fabrication work costs roughly 10, 000 dollars

An h22 swap isn't bad but it throws the balance of the car off due to the extra weight over the front axle... stiffer springs are MANDATORY to regain any sort of handling the car had before the swap


I think you need to do a lot of research before attempting anything or for your own safety and that of the publics , not to mention your wallet... take it to a reputable shop and let the pros handle everything

 

Yolo