b16bri

MY car was sputtering ramdomly and it would break up sometimes. It also would cut out and the car would have no power no responce. Anyways I changed my dizzy b/c i knew the ignitor was bad. I checked the timing with a light before I switched the dizzy, and i check it again after. It was at the same point as before. I thought everything was fine I drove the car for like 10 minuts my AFR were fine just crusing than I wanted to see how it would be at WOT. Once i hit boost the cars AFR were on the lean side it would be around 11.5 - 11.8 at WOT which is 400+whp 20 psi. Than a CEL light came on I ran the code it showed up as 02 sensor and the car started to drive like **** and it would have some slight idle surges. What happend is this my new dizzy my o2 sensor, should I try swapping the dizzy back dose the dizzy and the o2 sensor work together ? IDk whats going on. Any help would be appreacted

97grnrs

should not be related.. a good working dist is more important than an 02.

b16bri

yes very but I doint know why all of a sudden now my O2 sensor had a cel I drove the car rite before i changed it and it was fine. Like did i some how mess up my tune or idk why was the car running lean at WOT

dpetro1

since when is 11.5-11.8 lean? do you have a wideband and stock narrowband or just one? wee you getting code 1 or 41? why not replace the o2 and see what happens. if the timing is correct then i dont think the dizzy is the issue.

b16bri

Well I didn't mean super lean but it's leaner than i usually run my tuner set my cars AFR to be in the 10's at WOT. It's just one wideband (AEM wideband) actually the code was number 2 and it only blinked twice to short blinks than stoped and didn't do anything which 2short blinks should be CEL #2 right ?

GT35R_EF

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dpetro1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since when is 11.5-11.8 lean? do you have a wideband and stock narrowband or just one? wee you getting code 1 or 41? why not replace the o2 and see what happens. if the timing is correct then i dont think the dizzy is the issue.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Was gonna say the same thing. 10's at WOT? that my friend is pretty rich. Running that rich for an extended amount of time will wear that O2 out. Replace that thing and tell us what you find.

dpetro1

code 2 is secondary o2 sensor, if you are running obd1 you wouldnt have a secondary sensor anyways so i dunno why you would even throw that code.

and 10's are too rich

b16bri

Ya Thinking about it that dosent make since why I would throw that code dose anyone have anyideas ? i'll recheck it tonight just to make sure. ok well the car only has 300 miles on the new tuned motor so it hasent been that long but i'll replace it. Considering it's an AEM UGO wideband do i have to contact aem for that O2 sensor or were can i pick one up. I went to a very good tuner so the fact i was running so rich and now runnig a little leaner could that be due to my dizzy not working correctly ?

dpetro1

timing has nothing to do with afr. think about your ecu, there are ignition maps and fuel maps. two seperate things

b16bri

Heres the update. I started up my car to day to back it out and i had the CEL. I shut it off about an hour later I started it again to drive it and see what was going on. The CEL was gone. Car felt fine ran really smooth for like 20-30 minuts All of a sudden I had the same problem (just crusing) the car started to slightly over heat than the car wasent even driveable it was bucking badly at low rpms and cut out i has no responce from the motor, i pulled over. Turned the heat on, let the car idle and cool down. 10 minuits later I drove off the car was fine. (The car would do this and also when on the high way would break up and the car would buck so i though geting a new dizzy would fix this. I guess it didn't). So anyways I took it on the high way to get home and to see if it would break up or not. I hit boost the car drove fine than all of a sudden it felt like something was holding the car back it lunged forward and than I look at my widebade and the car was runng mid 16 to low 17 instantly i get out of boost and get off the highway. Now the car sounds like a harley it louds as hell and ideling like very ruff it was ideling around 1000 but just shakeing the car badly. At idle my AFR were again 16 - 17. I drove home all back roads, never breaking 25mph completly out of boost. The car was driving/ idleing like ****, louds as hell and pretty lean. Also I kept smelling a bad burning smell, anyways when i got home i poped the hood to find one spark plugs wire on my dizzy was off, and another one was loose. I put them back on started the car and same sounded like **** so I left it alone. I pulled the plugs 10 minust ago they are fine. WTF is going on with my car ? anyone help would be amazing i guess it sounds like a fuel problem but idk help...

FastEg6

can you post your setup?

trevdawg

My car isn't even boosted and the problems of my car sound similiar . . . messed up idle, cuts in and out with regular driving. I just put on a new dizzy too but i brought it in before and they fixed some of the wiring but i think i need to follow the wires more.

JDogg

reman distributors are junk, buy a good used oem (came off a car, not bought from a dealer) distributor. even if it was bought from a dealer its still probably a reman and junk.

0morgan@synapse motorsport

are you using oem plug wires?

did you pin the service connector to lock timing?

b16bri

No theres MSD wires and no I didn't. This problem was happening before i changed the dizzy the car would still be on and running but would all of a sudden while i was drive cut out and I would have no responce from the car I could step on the gas and nothing would happen car wouldent rev nothing, and the car sometimes would buck and sputter at low and high rps. I thought by changing the dizzy it might fix it now it's running even worse. Idk if it's something small like a fuel problem or some big as far a a tuning issue ?. what do you guys think. I actually love for someone to drive it and tell me what they think alltho thats kinda hard sometimes lol.

b16bri

My set up is a built b16a 8.61 CR eagle rods, probe pistons, block guard insted of sleeves build head crower spings, valves, retainers, crower turboed cams. Um ITR intake mani, full-race prostreet mani, t3/t04e 57 trim full 3" dp and exhaust, Aem fuel rail and FPR, 1000 cc precision injectors, Tuned on Ectune on a P30 ecu. and more but you get the idea I spent so much time and money and I did so much work on the car I just got it tuned about a month or 2 ago and i havent even been able to enjoy it due to all there little problems . the car makes 400+ whp on 20psi

96 GSR-T

Jump the service connector and re-time your motor.

b16bri

ok i will try that but like i said right after i got it tuned before i even touched anything I was having these problems can this have to do with fuel or the tune ?

JDogg

try a different dizzy!

b16bri

Dose it sound like a ingition problem or more of a fuel problem to you guys

b16bri

Heres another update The car was fine today. my last post saying the car drove really bad ended up being nothing more than some how 2 plug wires came off my dizzy. I wanted to see how the car would drive today the CEL is gone it just went away, the car drove really smooth and the AFR were fine. I had to keep the heat cranked b/c it would start to overheat, I belive i have a sticky thermoustat. I drove for an hour and the car was fine wouldent buck or anything. Ive noticed the car only bucks when the car start to overheat. Anyways I just pulled in my driveway and I look at the temp guage and saw it starting to raise so I knew the problem would start I than backed out of my drive way got a house down the street and it bucked it wouldent let me pass 2000rpms I pushed the clutch in and this time featherd it and tryed to drive again and at the same time the temp guage went down to normal and the car drove fine again. Like ive said the car only seems to have this problem when it starts to get hot ? Anyideas guys this is killing me.

b16bri

I havent touched the car in a coupl,e days i plan on jumping the service connector and locking the timeing tomorrow. Stupid question but i wont mess up anything in my tune if i jump that out and lock my timeing. Meaning like an ignition table inside my ecu would be affected. Right ?

RHD_BB4T

if it runs like crap only when it starts to overheat you might want to recheck the torque on your headbolts and check the headgasket

b16bri

ok I'll look into it, i mean i know i torqued the head bolts down to the proper specs and theres only like 300 miles on them. I'll check tho the funny thing is it only bucks for a second or two and then the engine cools back down and it's runs like a champ. I'm pretty sure i need a new thermostat could a sticky thermoustat be the reason for it buking ? And if i jump out the sevice plugs to lock timeing it wont mess up my tune at all will it ?

dpetro1

adjusting the distributor timing wont change the actual values of the tune but if for some reason when you got tuned the base timing was off then correcting it will affect the whole map. ex. when tuned your base timing was 14*, you adjust to the proper 16*, you have just added 2* to the whole map. something like that could be an issue.

also overheating shouldnt make your car "buck" or hesitate (maybe if its really bad but not likely) how are you reading coolant temps?? what temps are you seeing? make sure you aren't having an electrical issue (grounds, wiring)

actually do some trouble shooting and report back, i feel like you have been given some good ideas but havent actually tried to fix anything.