cell problem
I am running a B20 vtec sleeved with GE to 85 mm 750 RC injectors Victor X mani and a drag turbo kit with a P72 ecu and a 3bar installed running 11-15PSI. problem is after I start the car i get a cell but it I cant read it with the paper clip solution, it wont stay after i shut it down and turn the key. how do i find out what the code is? I am trying to get my set up tuned but dont want to show up with any cells... I had the car tuned before but i dont think the guy knew what he was doing as my motor had to be rebuild twice after the shitty tune he programed also the car runs really shitty in the low rpm's after it gets warmed up and most of the time it stalls.
are you using an aftermarket ignition wires set? replace it with the OEM pieces and test. you might be experiencing some electrical interference causing your ECU to post a CEL.
i am not sure what he tuned with but think it was crome. so its possible that the ECU is bad also? I had a P28 with hondata S200 boost that he fried on me and replaced it with the P72, I am thinking I am just going to go back to the P28 and see it the tuner will be able to get a good tune on it.
thanks for the replies.
thanks for the replies.
Trending Topics
I got my orig harness 92 civic Si obd1, running RC 750 cc injectors also a 3 bar map. could it be anything to do with the 3 bar map being hooked up wrong?
well did you wire it right? also are you runing 11 OR 15psi? is the computer set to read a 3 bar map?
a code 14 is pretty cut and dry. its either the iac itself or the wiring.
also make sure you properly burped the cooling system.
a code 14 is pretty cut and dry. its either the iac itself or the wiring.
also make sure you properly burped the cooling system.
I dont see how I would get a code 14 from having an air pocked though, even though i diid get rid of them. only thing i could see is the IACV or the wiring being messed up to the 3 bar map for the code to show up. I unplugged the 3 bar map and the engine would not respond at all to any throttle given.
now the car runs at around 1200-1400 rpms when started then dropps down and almost stalls when warmed up.
Last edited by thid92; Jun 18, 2009 at 11:32 AM.
ok lets back up a bit.
you have code 14. iac valve circuit. its 2 wires. one gets 12v(yellow/black) from the main relay. the other is signal.
check to see if you get 12v at that wire if not you have an open somewhere. then ground pin a9 at the ecu with the key on and see if you can hear the iac motor clicking on and off as you tap it to ground. if it does not click check continuity on the blue/black wire to the iac. if its good the iac is bad.
you have code 14. iac valve circuit. its 2 wires. one gets 12v(yellow/black) from the main relay. the other is signal.
check to see if you get 12v at that wire if not you have an open somewhere. then ground pin a9 at the ecu with the key on and see if you can hear the iac motor clicking on and off as you tap it to ground. if it does not click check continuity on the blue/black wire to the iac. if its good the iac is bad.
ok lets back up a bit.
you have code 14. iac valve circuit. its 2 wires. one gets 12v(yellow/black) from the main relay. the other is signal.
check to see if you get 12v at that wire if not you have an open somewhere. then ground pin a9 at the ecu with the key on and see if you can hear the iac motor clicking on and off as you tap it to ground. if it does not click check continuity on the blue/black wire to the iac. if its good the iac is bad.
you have code 14. iac valve circuit. its 2 wires. one gets 12v(yellow/black) from the main relay. the other is signal.
check to see if you get 12v at that wire if not you have an open somewhere. then ground pin a9 at the ecu with the key on and see if you can hear the iac motor clicking on and off as you tap it to ground. if it does not click check continuity on the blue/black wire to the iac. if its good the iac is bad.
thanks for the good info.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
khmboostedeh2
Forced Induction
7
Apr 1, 2006 07:09 AM




