Firstly, I found the original of this layout years ago and lost it, so I remade the diagram and was wondering if you guys think this would get the job done on a turbo H22A ...

Note that on the original write up the pcv was gutted out and thats what I did as well.

1 goes to 2 (gutted pcv) and then goes to the catch can. The catch can is the common type with two inlets. One is used for a filter.

Is this effective enough or do you guys have some better suggestions or upgrades to this layout?

 

What do u guys think lol...

 

 

Run the bitch.

 

OP - looks like it'll work just as you have it.

 

Give it a shot and let us know how you get on. What do you mean by gutted BTW ? I keep hearing it on here but i'm not sure what people mean. I think we may use a different word/phrase.

 

2 questions.

Why are you gutting the PCV? Just remove it.

Do H22's have breather boxes on the back of the block? If so, that should be involved in your catch can system. I can't really tell from your diagram.

 

i know this might be on some ones post but i cant find it and have a hard time so take it easy on me.. i have a jdm h22a and recently blew a b20 turbo dc integra doors off.. the catch is my timing was off like 180 degrees off when i smashed the b20 turbo and now im piston rings are ****ed and pistons are cracked bad.. the only pistons i could get a hold of were h22a1 so where would i be at now with h22a1 pistons?? and what would my 1/4 time be in a 93 dx eg

 

 

this is a very dumb idea...i wouldnt want to be sucking oil vapor into my motor...sucking the oil vapor back into your motor causes buildup and drops the octane rating of the gas...just plumb everything back to a catch can with a filter on it and let it vent to atmosphere

 

Just plug it back to a catch can with a filter on top?

I thought you needed a vaccum source (pre-turbo) to suck out the excessive crank case blow-by? Condensation of the oil vapor in a baffled catch can with steel wool in it, wouldn't suffice?

Could you please elaborate on a correct catch can diagram set up for a turbo honda? I've been searching this topic a lot as well and have come across a lot of mis-information and contradicting threads.

 

You're not sucking it back into the motor, that is what the catch can is for...

 

Just plug it back to a catch can with a filter on top? No

I thought you needed a vaccum source (pre-turbo) to suck out the excessive crank case blow-by? Condensation of the oil vapor in a baffled catch can with steel wool in it, wouldn't suffice?
You do, yes, it will suffice


Could you please elaborate on a correct catch can diagram set up for a turbo honda? I've been searching this topic a lot as well and have come across a lot of mis-information and contradicting threads.
The diagram you posted is fine.

 

Hey will my simple catchan idea work?

 

No.

Look at the diagram i posted compared to yours. I slightly thread jacked you in order to help us both.

 

only issue/question i have with that simple diagram is this:

1.the little filter has arrows pointing to fresh air in..As we all know, under boost, air will push out.
2. even if the CC is sealed, with baffles, vapor will still enter pre-turbo and lead to more of a knock/detonation issue.


I know you can vent from the back of the block, but usually blows oil up the hoses to which you should have from the VC and block for the best venting of pressure.

Since alot of people dont like to do this, you can use a vented cap to a breather to help.

Xenocron sells a kit.
http://www.xenocron.com/xenocron-now...82bd648ad696a5

 

the OPs diagram is sufficient... i would recommend doing 2 seperate hoses though instead of tying them in... that would be like twice the ventiliation to the catch can... the level of power your trying to make plays are part in that decision...

 

No he cant, he's only proficient at knocking down something else rather than posting actual tech info.

The picture he is knocking would be the closed-loop setup way of doing things and if you put a proper air/oil separated before sucking the oil back into your motor it would be the best way to do it, seeing as OEM has to use a closed loop system for emissions purposes.

 

Is it good for 400whp?

 

I have seen cars with well over 400whp run without them however it always a good idea to run one especially when your asking a small motor to do so much....

that setup should be more than sufficient for a 400whp setup.... the most crankcase pressure is going to come out the back of the block anyway....

 

Ok great I do plan on seperating the hoses though and relocating the filter to the top of the can. Now what got me baffled is you mention that pressure is going to come out from the back of the block??? I do not have any kind of pressure relief behind the block?! This is a jdm h22a btw...

BTW, I have came across COUNTLESS thread with endless different catchcan setups - seems like a common trend on most threads that everyone thinks their's is the right way and none other lol. BTW, I did not mention that I have used this setup for almost 2 years with 300Whp and it worked. Going to higher whp now so I was skeptical about it and therefore I made this thread

 

ok sorry about that i did a little reading up on the h22 catch can setups... some people have been drilling holes into the block....

i would recommend doing the 2 fittings off the back of the valve cover... and it looks like guys are using a nipple off of a h22 oil cooler as well.... some guys are using an oil filter adapter with a fitting on it...

if you are ok running just the valve cover fittings be aware that you will not have a drain back and will have to empty the can out as it gets full.... i would recommend investing in a oil filter adapter with the fittings to use as a drain back... some people dont like the drain back setup because the oil has a milky look however i have been using one on my car that has made over 400whp for the past 5 years with no issues so... tony palo does it on his integra as well... its nice to have the catch can empty itself out...

i personally get all my lines and fitting stuff from B&R fittings

good luck to you