My question has to do with catch can set-ups. When I was researching a year or so ago, there wasn't much information on basic catch can set-ups. What I found was a some old school info (g2ic turbo read and a few other docs).

I recall some people were removing the charcoal canister and the black metal piping from the block to the canister. They were plugging one side (metal tubing) and tapping into the canister side (nipple went from canister side to one side of catch can). There was a company offer the specific large bolts but IMO, wasn't worth the cost.

So what I ended up doing was something similar. I left both the metal tubing and canister in place. I tapped into the canister and ran the tubing from the canister to one side of my catch can.

The exit point of my canister is then tied into the vacuum port of my turbo. I have this vacuum port tee'd to both the catch can and wastegate.

Does this seem reasonable?
Are there any problems with my set-up?
Is there a better place I should connect the exit port of catch can too?

Thanks in advance for any solid advice.

 

do not tee off anything from turbo reference point unless its a boost controller


You dont have the right catch can.. you need a vented one.

Simplest explaination is as long as you arent having intake pressure going into the crank case and the crankcase has a way to vent, then you should be fine.

So from the black box to a vented catch, or do what everyone else does and remove the black box, use -10 fittings and seal the hole with a freeze plug.


this can be found here:

http://www.xenocron.com/fittings-bre...3006be0b26c92e

 

teeing into a reference line means you are pressurizing the crankcase, which is the opposite of what you're trying to accomplish.

 

Thanks for the responses so far. I thought the vacuum line coming off my turbo was just that, always in vacuum. So in theory this should help pull the pressure coming from the crankcase, no?

If I'm wrong then I should remove the tee from turbo to wastegate and remove the line from the exit point of my catch can? This will allow the pressure from crankcase to breath, correct?

Thx.

 

it is a boost reference line. what do you think makes the wastegate open?

 

I had thought it is a vacuum line as all my readings have indicated that the wastegate, BOV all require vacuum sources.

Also my basic catch can set-up readings also indicated I could use the turbo "vacuum" port as as way to assist with ventilating crank case pressure by way of a basic catch can set-up.

 

Seriously,

your making it alot harder then what is really needed. You dont have the proper catch can in the 1st place. Ditch that Greddy POS catch or have an aluminum tube welded to the top and put a filter on it.

The whole purpose is to let your crankcase breathe. like I said in the 2nd post


there is no turbo vac port. what happens when the turbo goes into boost?

IDK how you missed the countless catchcan threads on how to do it properly.. but here:

http://www.beesandgoats.com/boostfaq/g2icturbo.html#PCV

 

The same info in link is what I was using as a reference to keep my catch can set-up simple and plain.

Perhaps my mistake was thinking the barbed nipple coming off my compressor side of turbo was the same if I had tapped into the pre turbo intake pipe...

So my tee to wastegate will be removed. tubing from exit point of catch can will be removed.

Could I get away with putting a small filter on the exit point of catch can instead of welding it shut, and putting a vent on top? Same thing no?

 

Step 1: take everything you know about catch cans and dump in trash
Step 2: Take your catch can and dump it in the trash (or goto step 3)
Step 3: buy a vented breather tank or drill a 1/2" to 3/4" hole on top of you catch can, weld a small tube 1.5" in height on top. add filter
Step 4: use the fittings shown in the link for back of block.
Step 5: Route from back of block to catch can.
Step 6: Do Not let any line that sees boost goto your engine, or catch can.


This is about as much spoon feeding I can do. Theres a shitload of proper write ups.

The main goal is to VENT THE CRANKCASE AND NOT FEED ANY BOOST INTO IT.

 

Thx for the tutorial Esoteric.

 

I personally have a catch can setup BUT I can tell you that your stock pcv system is more then adequate for a turbo car making 350-400. There are hundreds of people still on stock pcv with no adverse affects.

 

i recommend this setup
http://www.brfittings.com/index.php?...&product_id=51
2 vents on the valve cover and 1 vent/drain on the block

 

 

If you want to use your current catch can, you need to plumb it exactly like it is in the pics... You need to ahve 1 hose going to your black box and the other hose going to the FILTER side of the turbo charger.... not the PRESSURE side. A pre-turbo slash-cut would be ideal to pull the most vacuum in the crankcase.

Most people dont do this style of evacuation because it tends to dump oil vapors into the intake manifold, turbo intersooler, and charge pipes. You end up with oil puddling in all the low spots in your system. The engine then consumes the oil vapors and burns them off. Most OEMs do it this way because it is more environmentally friendly. Not exactly the best way to do it for performance and longevity of components. If you want a better system, I'd recommend some sort of VENTED catchcan as many people before me have said.

 

There are multiple people with a stock pcv system and no issue. 1st one that comes to mind is Mac 'theshodan' who is very intelligent when it comes to turbos. Probably one of the smartest on the forum. I ran without one for a few years until I switched to a built motor. Only reason I have one now yes but only because it was super cheap.

 

point taken... but

Mac is a professional and can build an engine to exact tolorences..

The typical honda owner is going to boost their stock engine which most likely will have some age thus having well used rings. now the little excess blowby that will occur under boost will add in pressure already added by the turbo. Not only will the rings suffer, but releasing that pressure thru a vent will add some extra power to the engine as 1 less thing to battle (so to speak).

I wouldnt tell a noob to keep a PVC set up personally. my .02

 

Thank you very much for the response. Someone actually understood what I'm trying to say and offered a solution for what I currently have set-up.

My fault is that I assumed the nipple on the intake side of my turbo was vacuum and should do the trick. I now realize I need to put a filter / plumbing prior to the intake side of turbo and the drawing which I used as reference will actually work.

 

there are lots of write ups on how to install catch cans.

ive tuned a lot of 400hp cars with the pvc still intact.....catch can was used only in the breather of vc....

its really not a big thing for your power goals. youre probably over thinking it.

 

Take a close up pic of your compressor housing inlet. If the line is hooked up before the inlet its cool... If its hooked to the port on your compressor housing near the outlet you're pressurizing the crankcase.. And your line going to the turbo is so small it won't do much to vent the system

.

 

Thanks wantboost, here's a picture of the same turbo I'm using (go-auto street kit). The brass nipple is what I'm using for my wastegate which is then tee'd to the output of catch can.

I've been boosting for close to six months now but I hardly drive the car, maybe 1K miles so far.

The car runs just fine, boost is manually set via Tial springs at 11psi.

Is this brass nipple port a true vacuum source?

Thx.

 

no, that port is a boost only reference. great spot for the wg hook-up

 

^^^ Thx. I now know what needs to be done to have an efficient catch can set-up using my existing parts.

 

Run a filter on the turbo will a small section of aluminum tubing so you can drill and tap or weld a fitting onto it so.you can pull gases back into the take tract. You've been pressuring your whole crankcase this entire time... And if your wastegate is tee'd into this point as well you've got nothing but a massive boost leak.. It needs to be plumed after the throttle body on the intake manifold

 

Interesting.
So when not boosting, the PCV should work fine.
When boost is on, the PCV valve is defeated and the catch can takes over.
As far as crank case pressures, I assume it to work perfectly.
Question though - any benefit to this setup for reducing crankcase vapors over just using the catch can?
My mental image seems to think it would be better to run catch can only.

 

PCV's are ONLY for people who care about the environment... they are NOT sufficient for higher horsepower levels.