I would like to recall here all those who do not use return in the block
I do but I do not like
I have recently seen many new systems can catch
I would like to help to build a new system
I thought the two vents oem block go into the valve cover side intake manifold
(such as recycling) helping to eliminate some of the pressure block
and two large holes about 1 inch in the front valve cover vent to catch can
My current setup
custom by me, 3 holes VC and 2 holes return block (half-inch diameter holes)
found it after only 300 miles a small amount of mud
very small, about the size of a coin
, but I fear for the long term
http://sphotos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphoto...85720248_n.jpg
sorry my english

thoughts?

 

Catch cans are a semi-debatable topic.

I run two lines from valve cover to a vented can. The stock PCV box is removed and plugged.

This setup is what my tuner recommends.

 

thanks friend
photo of the setup?

 

Drain back.. i'm pushing oil back up, on wot pulls on a healthy motor.. you'll need a drain back specially if your running ur catchcan lines from the back of the block.

 

I'm wondering if there are people who use no drain in block ......
and that oil vapor is vented from the front of the valve cover
I would use only fitting block to fit in the intake side valve cover ....... only helping to reduce pressure in the crankcase, without venting outside but creating two other channels through
I do not know if I explained well

 

i do not have a drain back. the small amount of fluid in my catchcan is really a nasty mix of oil, water from condensation and a bit of extra fuel. i would not want that back in my crankcase. i vent from the back of the valvecover not the front, and the vents in my block are plugged.

 

I vent from the valve cover only. I have the nipple shaved off and the stock PCV removed and blocked.

 

Vent it back.

 

thanks guys, has anyone ever used recirculated from the block to the valve cover?

 

Without a drain back the can will eventually fill up... so unless you're going to regularly take the can off and drain it, you need to run a line with a drain valve so you can empty it without having to remove the can completely.

The setup I'm building doesn't use a drain back to the motor because I don't want blow by gasses polluting my oil. I'm running a petcock on the bottom of the can with a line that runs down below the frame rail so I can drain it into some sort of container without removing the catch can itself.

 

At a local race at Road Atlanta I was acting as pit crew chief for a driver who had his c6 z06 built from the ground up by a local shop... I noticed his catch can didn't have a drain back or any way to drain the can without removing it, plus it was a recirculation setup that drew vacuum from before the throttle body no filter...... he was saying that around tight corners and elevation changes that the car was acting like it was missing...

I asked him if he ever drained the catch can, he looked at me sideways and said I didn't know you had to... well I took it off the car and filled a 12oz water bottle with polluted oil... I cleaned out the intake, throttle body and intake manifold.... it was covered in oil from the can no being emptied. He went back out on track and said the car felt completely different

Point is you either need a drain back or a way to empty it without removing the can.

 

I agree to a drain **** clean catch can
I thought for a no block drain, vent from the front of the valve cover
acceleration, the oil always goes back

 

No... crankcase pressure is is filling the can, nothing will come out of the can that way... especially since the lines are always at the top of the can.

It will just fill up until it starts to be blown out of the filter on top of the can.. once the can gets full a little bit might run back down the lines but very very little... you need a drain

 

Also the best way to vent the motor is from the back of the block, using the an fitting kits that thread into the block.., there's too much baffling in the head to efficiently vent the entire crankcase

 

sorry friend but I did not understand ........ I use google translator

 

If you vent at the rear of the block you will most likely need a drain back, If you vent from the valve cover you can go much longer without filling up the can.

I have been unable to find any effective way of venting at the rear of the block and not push oil at any substantial power level. Under hard acceleration the oil all returns down the back of the block and will travel up the vent lines. I have a small can and did not route a return and had to empty the can frequently as a result, it was fine on the street but at the track it would fill up pretty quick in comparison. I would love to find a simple solution, unfortunately I have not yet.

 

To the original poster, without a vent on your can it does nothing at all. You need some way to vent your system, currently you have a sealed system that has no effect.

 

Unless you have a drain your can won't empty....
That's all there is to it

Without a drain it will fill up and become useless and actually a hindrance

 

at the drag strip i empty mine out every few runs. i might see a few ounces out of it. more that worried about it draining back to my motor if can make a mess in the engine bay with the gasses coming out of the filter it can spray an oily mist out of the filter . it needs to be emptied and if u dont want to unbolt the can every time it should have a drain on the bottom of it that u can loosen and have the oil drain down into a pan below the car

 

I've been using a MOROSO Air/Oil Seperator catch can with a d17 valve cover. The outlet of the catch can in turbo inlet about 20" from the turbo. I hate the smell of atmospheric catch cans.

I will have to say this thing has been working extremely well.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/moroso-air-oil-seperator-3090330/ There's the link.

 

The way the OP is configured it won't ever need to be emptied because it will never fill. It's a sealed system, surprised its not blowing his dipstick out.

 

two from front of the valve cover because it has the baffle and wont push oil and keep the black box in place but weld a bung on the top of that and run to the catch can. great block ventilation and you wont push oil into the can that way. then you dont need a drain back.

 

sorry you can not see from the photo, but the vent is at the top
use a piece of Scotch-Brite Black
very similar to this
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2_436_full.jpg
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member...2_435_full.jpg

 

I try to put a picture of what I would do
I think in this way to help vent the block, trying to make a few other passages to oem
then the real vents in the front of the valve cover, where I do not think oilo can exit the baffle oem
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/4...4499222614.jpg
http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/1...2901682510.jpg

 

so you want to have the back of the engine to circulate air from the bottom to the top. then have it all release in the front of the valve cover?