<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TinyTitan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wouldn't that show up through the whole dyno? just wondering</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea but what if the issue is your base timing is off so you whole map is retarded XX degrees.. it happened to me... I gained over 135 whp because I forgot to sync the timing. Also bring the gap closer to 20-23

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Danny_EJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yea but what if the issue is your base timing is off so you whole map is retarded XX degrees.. it happened to me... I gained over 135 whp because I forgot to sync the timing. Also bring the gap closer to 20-23</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea no doubt........but the beginning of the graph looks right on par for what i would expect.......if timing was off that bad......it would be much lower......

but looking at the graph again..............it made ~290whp...............uhhhhhh

 

distributor was sync... i checked all intercooler piping for leaks and didn't find anything. I'm not sure what the IAT was but i noticed the underhood temps felt hotter then my old setup.

 

Do you have a flex section in the downpipe/exhaust? I actually seem about 4-5 exhaust flex section colapsed on the inside and restrict air flow. Check that.

Adriano

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Adriano &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have a flex section in the downpipe/exhaust? I actually seem about 4-5 exhaust flex section colapsed on the inside and restrict air flow. Check that.

Adriano</TD></TR></TABLE>

im pretty sure i said in a post earlier that i checked all airflow out and its good. I see straight through it

 

i just replaced my igniter, cap and rotor, and all spark plug wires, the coil and plugs are fairly new. Its feels a little better but top end it still lose power. When boost kicks in it feels normal and kicks in hard, then after that it feels very hesitant. Like it wants to go but something is holding it back. Would any sensor be the cause of the problem? Like IAT or something like that? I had to use another tune from my old setup. The wideband was reading 10.8 afr towards redline, I know that is pretty rich but would that cause it to lose power?


Modified by NyTeRyDeR gSr at 1:43 AM 8/28/2007


Modified by NyTeRyDeR gSr at 1:43 AM 8/28/2007

 

anybody?!?!?!?!

 

ill let you know what happens when i install my msd stuff this weekend. i have the same problem as you.

 

im running msd6al w/ blaster coil.

I tried to check the vtec solenoid and when i unplug the green plug on the vtec solenoid no CEL comes on. Is that normal or is that the culprit?

 

put all the new parts on another dizzy and tighten the gap on your plugs....

 

if u unplugged the vtec pressure sensor, then it wont throw the cel till you hit vtec, if u unplug the solinoid connector, it will throw a cel when you turn it on, i belive it runs a diagnostic when it starts up, and sees that there is no connection

 

yea, ur dyno graph shows around 280whp... but u say thats at 15psi.

an a/f of 10.8 wont cause the graph to be like that. to me it still looks like a an ignition problem. recheck everything.... check cam timing, ground wires, boost clamps for leaks. can u smoke out the engine to check for possible boost leaks? Snap on makes a sick tool for checking for leaks. im glad we have one at our shop/dyno. u can find boost leaks in seconds!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">put all the new parts on another dizzy and tighten the gap on your plugs....</TD></TR></TABLE>

i tried like 3 distributor already... thats not the problem.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cpl rampage &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u unplugged the vtec pressure sensor, then it wont throw the cel till you hit vtec, if u unplug the solinoid connector, it will throw a cel when you turn it on, i belive it runs a diagnostic when it starts up, and sees that there is no connection</TD></TR></TABLE>

I unplugged the green plug and drove around for a few min and took it close to redline and no CEL turned on.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, ur dyno graph shows around 280whp... but u say thats at 15psi.

an a/f of 10.8 wont cause the graph to be like that. to me it still looks like a an ignition problem. recheck everything.... check cam timing, ground wires, boost clamps for leaks. can u smoke out the engine to check for possible boost leaks? Snap on makes a sick tool for checking for leaks. im glad we have one at our shop/dyno. u can find boost leaks in seconds!</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did check all my pipings and clamps and hoses for leak but i didnt see any. I guess i'll go over everything again.

 

What are you tuning with? Can you get a plot with the torque? Any datalogs?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpha &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What are you tuning with? Can you get a plot with the torque? Any datalogs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

its tuned with s300. i dont think im able to get the datalogs.

 

so i checked all the pipings and hose and there is no cracks or leak from there. Hooked up a voltmeter the ecu and the vtec is kickin in. When we hold the rev up on the car to like 6k rpm or somewhere around there the bov opens up and air is coming out when we hold the rpm steady. Im pretty sure its not suppose to open up until u release the throttle, can anyone confirm this? We also tried to pull the vacuum off the bov and did a run and around 7k rpm the car falls flat on its face. Made a plate to block off the bov and made 1 run and it still felt the same.

Kinda narrowed the problem down to maybe vacuum problem, possibly bov? Also was thinking would it be something within the head? Like the valve springs or something is leaking? But if that is the case then the leakdown test woulda been more then 2-3% right?

If there is vacuum problem how do i fix it? bov, wastegate, map sensor, fpr all of them has its own vacuum source.

 

i had a vacuum problem and when you pressed the brake the car would turn off. i dont think you have a vacuum problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NyTeRyDeR gSr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so i checked all the pipings and hose and there is no cracks or leak from there. Hooked up a voltmeter the ecu and the vtec is kickin in. When we hold the rev up on the car to like 6k rpm or somewhere around there the bov opens up and air is coming out when we hold the rpm steady. Im pretty sure its not suppose to open up until u release the throttle, can anyone confirm this? We also tried to pull the vacuum off the bov and did a run and around 7k rpm the car falls flat on its face. Made a plate to block off the bov and made 1 run and it still felt the same.

Kinda narrowed the problem down to maybe vacuum problem, possibly bov? Also was thinking would it be something within the head? Like the valve springs or something is leaking? But if that is the case then the leakdown test woulda been more then 2-3% right?

If there is vacuum problem how do i fix it? bov, wastegate, map sensor, fpr all of them has its own vacuum source. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the bov will be open slightly when you are in vacuum. im sure when you were holding it at 6k it was still in vacuum. watch it while you go WOT it should be closed.

 

did you guys change where vtec activates while it was on the dyno, that would easily tell you if its activating or not. there would be a significant change in the graph.

 

I had aq Z6 that never clicked vtec, i changed everything and never found the problem, and thats when i went B

 

good info. I am having the same problem but with a built b18b setup. kinda narrowed it down to a boost leak or something with the head. Let me know if you figure something out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mike@synapse motorsport &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the bov will be open slightly when you are in vacuum. im sure when you were holding it at 6k it was still in vacuum. watch it while you go WOT it should be closed.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the bov was open like 1/2 way when holding steady at 6k rpm. But in wot the boost gauge holds steady boost. If under boost it was leaking then i would see a boost fluctuate or drop right?


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92redhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i had a vacuum problem and when you pressed the brake the car would turn off. i dont think you have a vacuum problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I dont think i have a vacuum problem either, i tapped into the brake booster line to get a strong vacuum source.

I think its possibly the head from the wear and tear. Anybody have any comment on that? Its a stock b16 head

 

bump for some help!

 

pm me and send me the map off the s300 if you want help. at 15 psi it should be making around 400 hp so its way off. have you pulled the valve cover and checked the vtec cam lobes for wear?

 

If you are worried about your BOV, simply disconnect the vacuum line to it and run the car with out the BOV. If you car makes a lot more power than you know that the BOV was the problem.